i can tell you exactly what ignition system you have and amazingly enough you've even called it by it's proper nickname....."Gold Box".....LOL
NOT to be confused with the much less popular Mr Gasket "Gold Spark" ignition, however.
anyway it's actually a Motorola/Prestolite ignition system. back in the day everyone sold these systems, Mr Gasket, Accel, Mallory, Montgomery Wards, Sears, JC Penney, Prestolite, and even Ford, Chrysler and GM marketed these systems under their own names, plus other companies you've never even heard of before.....
when they work they actually work pretty well but parts for them are fairly to find, but you can canibalize other things to replace the parts if need be. the box itself would be from an early-mid 70's AMC before they started using the ford duraspark, NAPA part number ECHTP75. and the pickup/stator/reluctor stuff can be replaced with a complete duraspark dizzy but you'll have to cannibalize the connectors to make them work, though at that point it's really best to just replace the entire system. you might be able to find an AMC/jeep with the correct parts for the dizzy but i'm not really sure.
as for your problem with the car not wanting to idle at the specified RPM, you might just either bump the idle up a bit or advance the timing a bit, most ford engines actually like at least 10 degrees of initial timing or more. mine is currently set at about 14 degrees initial timing.
i also would recommend getting yourself a nice vacuum gauge and set your timing and idle mixture with it. what you want to do is set your curb idle at the specified 575 rpm and then connect the vacuum gauge to a manifold vacuum source. next you'll want to set your timing so you get the highest vacuum reading and snug the dizzy hold down bolt. now, your curb idle speed will have gone up considerably so you will need to readjust that back to the specified RPM. next adjust your idle mixture screws to get the highest vacuum reading as well and readjust your curb idle speed again. you will need to repeat this process several times to get everything set just right and eventually it will get where you won't have to adjust the curb idle speed much, if at all, as you zero on the correct tune. once you have everything set properly you should be able to put in gear and have the car run very well with no bogging or hesitation at all.
keep in mind though that as you do this the initial timing may be advanced far enough to ping a little under light load, this doesn't always happen but it is a possibility. if it does happen you'll need to back the timing off one or two degrees at a time until the pinging goes away, then you'll need to reset the idle mixture screws with the vacuum gauge, the same as before and adjust the curb idle speed to the desired rpm, again, as before but you won't need to adjust the timing again this time. like i said though, you won't always run into the ignition pinging issue and on a low compression 351c you probably won't so don't sweat it just be aware that it could happen and it's not the end of the world if it does, you just have a little more tuning to do is all. worst case scenario this will take you most of a saturday or sunday to do, but probably quite a bit less than that.
NOTE: DO NOT set your curb idle speed with the vacuum gauge because the higher the car idles the more vacuum it makes, so if you set your idle speed with the vacuum gauge you'll end up with about a 2000 rpm or more curb idle speed.......
also make sure that all other components in the ignition and fuel system are in good shape before you start this project IE; plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil, PCV valve, fuel filter(s), fuel pump, carburetor, choke, air filter, etc., etc. we already know the electronic ignition conversion itself is in good shape because the engine does run, if it wasn't working properly the engine wouldn't run at all, so you're in good shape there.
YOU RULE BNICKEL! 
