emissions problems w/ aftermarket cams???

Hello All,

I will be purchasing a new cam soon and was wondering if anyone has had problems with any cams passing emissions in OR? I will be running a TFS street intake and TFS TW heads. I've been trying to decide between the E303, TFS stage 1 and the Xtreme cams. If anyone has knowledge they would like to offer, I am all ears. I plan to eventually strap on a 8-10psi Vortech, but that probably wont be for another year or so. Looking for the best cam to satisfy the engine wether blown or unblown. Thanks for any help you can offer.
 
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Don't run a cam with a lot of valve overlap, that dumps raw fuel into the exaust at low rpm. Also running a cam with a large LSA (like 114 deg vs a 110 deg) will help

If you are going to run and OTS cam I am a big fan of the comp XE series (expecialy if you have aftermarket heads), and I am not as big of a fan of the letter cams.

read through a few threads here if you want some good background info:
http://sbftech.com/index.php?board=50.0
 
Don't run a cam with a lot of valve overlap, that dumps raw fuel into the exaust at low rpm. Also running a cam with a large LSA (like 114 deg vs a 110 deg) will help

If you are going to run and OTS cam I am a big fan of the comp XE series (expecialy if you have aftermarket heads), and I am not as big of a fan of the letter cams.

read through a few threads here if you want some good background info:
http://sbftech.com/index.php?board=50.0

With all that said though, you might just run the stock cam retarted 4 deg (and maybe some 1.7 rockers) untill you put the blower on in the name of saving money and matching your combo as best as you can.

the stock cam actualy can do quite well with these sort of performance modifications.
 
As I recall, the E-cam is emissions legal. As for other similar grinds, much will depend on your tune. Install your new combo, take the car through DEQ and see what your emissions were. From there, play with your air/fuel.
 
I run the E303 with edelbrock heads and intake with a vortech @ 10psi using 42's with a chip. I Pass DEQ no problem. You just need a good stock catted h-pipe to pass. Now passing noise is a little harder. I do the old steel wool packed in the h-pipe. I think the TFS 1 is about the same as the E303.
 
I run the E303 with edelbrock heads and intake with a vortech @ 10psi using 42's with a chip. I Pass DEQ no problem. You just need a good stock catted h-pipe to pass. Now passing noise is a little harder. I do the old steel wool packed in the h-pipe. I think the TFS 1 is about the same as the E303.

I would just do the F303, best bolt on cam for boost "says turbomustangs.com",... had it on mine. I don't have to do DEQ though,...

The E303 is a good cam though. I have three other friends running them and all like them. None of witch need DEQ though,..... So I guess I'm not much help here.

Matt
 
Justin,

I was planning on buying a MAC H-pipe w/ hi-flow cats next week, do you think I'll be able to pass emissions? I know it's only 2 cats instead of 4. Do you run an aftermarket h-pipe or headers? I was planning on picking up some coated MAC shorties. You'll have to show me the steel wool trick...haven't heard that one before!
 
Justin,

I was planning on buying a MAC H-pipe w/ hi-flow cats next week, do you think I'll be able to pass emissions? I know it's only 2 cats instead of 4. Do you run an aftermarket h-pipe or headers? I was planning on picking up some coated MAC shorties. You'll have to show me the steel wool trick...haven't heard that one before!

PM sent
 
If you are going to run the TF-TW heads and intake, why would you want to run ANYTHING BUT the cam that is specifically designed to work with that combo??? Imho, run the TF stage 1 (with your emissions friendly goal in mind). I would also get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, a 65mm throtle body and a larger MAF, if you don't already have them. These will aide in getting the most out of your combo.

Dave
:nice: :flag:
 
If you are going to run the TF-TW heads and intake, why would you want to run ANYTHING BUT the cam that is specifically designed to work with that combo??? Imho, run the TF stage 1 (with your emissions friendly goal in mind). I would also get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, a 65mm throtle body and a larger MAF, if you don't already have them. These will aide in getting the most out of your combo.

Dave
:nice: :flag:

Run the biggest TB you can, these are not carbs and don’t have those issues. I know once you get past the 75mm mark they get more expensive, so assuming you are trying to save some cash get a 70 or 75mm.

a TF cam stage 1 cam is not a bad choice (partialy because they are so cheap), but I do belive that those heads can flow a little more at higher lift figures than are offered by that cam. The comp extrem energy profiles do that well if the right one is picked. Another bad thing about the trick flow cam is the cam core is a little flexy, which leads to valvetrain instability. A custom cam off of a good core is oviouly the best, but they cost big money and you really shouldn't do one untill you put the blower on( that is why proposed the 1.7 rockers and 4 deg retard on the stock cam untill you put the blower on).

what are your end performance goals other than just passing emissions? That will really dictate your choice and money spent.
 
I already have a BBK 75mm TB, haven't bought a MAM yet because i'm trying to figure out how soon I will be able to get the cam and heads on so I know if i need to upgrade injectors which would save me having to buy another sample tube. In the end I would like to have a daily driven stang in the low 11s possibly the high 10s. I don't want a full blown race car, but 400-500rwhp would really make me love driving to work! Are people able to pass emissions with the comp xtreme?

I appreciate all the knowledge of everyone that has responded!
 
I have run the E cam as well as the trick flow stage 1. I would recomend the TF 1cam the cam was designed for the heads and intake that you have plus the price is right. In fact I had a stock bottom end with a D-1 procharger stage 1 cam and TF R intake 75mm tb and made 540hp to the tires with all stock electronics, no computer tune etc... I had a rich problem but that was because of the 42 lb lucas injectors:notnice: the ford racing 42 lbs are an excellent injector and also look into a good fuel system, I have melted a few motors from a piss poor fuel system. that is my 2 cents
 
Where are you at? do you have to pass a visual?

It’s all in the tune if you pick the right combo

Do you have all your emissions equipment still? That makes it really easy (but not needed).

My mild LX with zero emissions equipment and 240,000 miles passes with flying colors (I am in Seattle, and they don’t have visuals)

If you’re going with the blower and going to run an OTS cam I would get something like a comp 35-312-8 or 35-304-8


Keep in mind there are plenty of guys running forced induction that have over 400RWHP and into the 11's on the stock cam (talk to the turbo guys and they will do it with stock heads! too)

so you don't always have to spend the extra money if your goals are modist
 
I believe we have to pass visuals because every car i have ever had DEQ'd they look under w/ a mirror. I still have the stock headers and H-pipe.

How can I tell which type of TFS intake I have (street heat, track heat, R)?

And trust me, if the car ends up being faster than originally expected...i will NOT be upset! Is there such a thing as fast enough? I just don't wanna do the heads and intake, then get done and wish I had put in a cam. Might as well, put one in and go from there. Still haven't heard wether the TFS stage 1 will pass emissions ( and yes I know it depends on the tune, but is it designed to pass emissions?).
 
The street heat has the longest runner length: the plenum extends clear out over the driver side valve cover. The track heat has slightly shorter runners: the plenum covers about half the d.s. v.c. ... with a 1" phenolic spacer you can pull the valve cover without pulling the manifold, but it's reeeeaalll close. The R has short runners (also has kinda a hump back look to the plenum), you can pull the d.s. v.c. without much trouble.

Just f.y.i. .... as you get into larger cams, and big throtle bodies (like 75mm and up) you increase your chances of idle and drivability issues with the stock computer. If your going with a custom chip, or a tuner, etc... then it's a non-issue, but just so you know.

DD
:nice: :flag:
 
Just f.y.i. .... as you get into larger cams, and big throtle bodies (like 75mm and up) you increase your chances of idle and drivability issues with the stock computer. If your going with a custom chip, or a tuner, etc... then it's a non-issue, but just so you know.

DD
:nice: :flag:

A large TB will not cause driveability issues. But oviously a cam with large durration, large valve overlap CAN. That is why when you have a head that flows well you can run a smaller duration higher lift cam (as aposed to the classic muscle car cam for bad flowing heads that is a low lift high duration to get the same volume of air in the cylnder)
Might as well, put one in and go from there.
:

one one thing about that is a cam that is idea for a NA aplication is not idea for a blower appliction and that is why I have been stressing to think about running the stock cam untill you throw the blower on.

The TF stage one is not "emissions legal", but will usaly pass

If your going to run a blower stick with something that has a lope seperation angle of around 114 (TF1 has 112). That will help you pass emmisons much easyier than a 110 or 112, and make more bower with a blower. The last two lines are VERY general statments and their is much more to it than that, but are OK blanket statments for this application on OTS cams.

whats your time table? when are you going to to the head and intake swap, and when are you going to put the blower on
 
A large TB will not cause driveability issues.

Perhaps I should have spelled out that in order to run a 75+ you must also run a coresponding intake manifold. Things like this affect the Throtlebody Airflow Scalar, you also need run the idle with the TB closed further than you otherwise would in order to maintain the same values for the Idle Air Bypass valve duty cycle, that then affects the the point at which you reach "part throtle" voltage from the TPS, as well as the intake affecting the scalar for plenum volume, or the table for rate of enrichment as it relates to rate of throtle opening, which help combat the momentary lean stumble that can result, or .... oh nevermind.

(sigh)

The EEC is a very good stock system, it can forgive quite a bit, but once you pass 80% or 120% or factory preset value... it gets unhappy. I didn't say it would, I simply said it can, and yes I will freely admit that the percentage is small, but it is there. Dozens of members of the EEC tuner faithfull or TwEECer owners, might or might not disagree with you, depending on their own personal experiences.

I was just giving him a heads up.

DD
:flag: :nice:

EDIT: to be more PC.