Engine break-in

Rally · Apr 13, 2005

There seems to be contrasting views concerning engine break-in. Although some swear by running the engine hard (hi revs) right out of the box, others seem to rely on a mildler approach. My question has to do with DURATION. Does anyone have any thoughts on duration of drive for a new car/engine? Less than an hour at a time for the first 1000 miles, for instance? The reason for asking is that I have to take a 3 hour drive in a couple of days that would be perfect for the new Mustang... should I do it or wait for some sort of break–in before taking a drive like this?

I know that the logic behind this duration control pertains more to new gear break-in, where temperature comes into play(?). Should I not sweat a three hour drive in the new Mustang so soon (I’ll probably have about 100 miles or so by the time of the trip)?

Florida Bob · Apr 13, 2005

Shouldn't be a problem. Just vary the rpms a bit.

MrMorden · Apr 13, 2005

I'm a little curious about this as well. I'll probably be buying from a dealer several hundred miles away, and I'll have to drive the car back home. I guss I can switch between 4th and 5th on the highway, and travel at various speeds to vary the RPMs....

96vert · Apr 13, 2005

Just vary the RPM's - you should be good to go. I did this on my new 'stang in November - drove it 250 miles back home after purchasing it. I made sure to vary RPMs (3-5th gear on the highway) and made all entrance ramps exciting. I subscribe to the thought that you should run it hard right away.

ShadowBok · Apr 13, 2005

Just lay off the cruise control.

whiteboyslo · Apr 13, 2005

what is the theory behind varying the RPM? just curious bc i'm more of a "baby it for the first 6K" kind of guy.

Mike

Florida Bob · Apr 13, 2005

ShadowBok said:
Just lay off the cruise control.

Agreed.

Adrenal · Apr 13, 2005

whiteboyslo said:
what is the theory behind varying the RPM? just curious bc i'm more of a "baby it for the first 6K" kind of guy.

Mike

As I understand it, varing the RPM will allow the rings/valves to seat across the entire RPM range. If you run at a steady speed for any length of time, they will only seat properly at the RPM's for which you held steady, and won't seat properly over the rest of the range. This is what I learned many years ago, and assume it still applies nowadays.

I run up and down the revs quickly to a max of 5,000 RPM for the first 1,000 miles. After that I'll vary it right up to redline.

Anybody disagree?

bleedingvayneAD · Apr 13, 2005

Nope, I just drove the hell outta my car when I got it. And nothing wrong with it yet!

samckernan · Apr 13, 2005

Do some engine brakeing as well...

samckernan

thump_rrr · Apr 14, 2005

I think the vary the revs thing is a load of bull myself although it can't hurt.
I don't think the rings can tell the difference between 3000 and 6000 RPM. It's still the same section of ring going over the same section of cylinder over and over again. as for the 1 hour or 3 hour or 24 hour driving once the lubricants are up to temp. The temp will remain constant. I have owned and operated heavy comercial trucks for a period of 8 years and rational thinking wins out over wives tales, superstitions,and hocus pocus every time.

When a vehicle is new bedding the brakes and seasoning the tires is the most important thing as well as a proper starting procedure.

The way I like to season tires is to bring them up to normal running temperature and then allowing them to cool down to ambient temperature 3 times before any sustained high speed driving is performed (120 MPH or over).
Normal everyday driving in north america should accomplish this. There is a good article in an old car and driver magazine where they ran a Ferrari Maranello on fresh tires at high speed and had severe problems with them.

Bedding the pads is very similar to seasoning the tires. You want to get the brakes up to temp without making any very hard stops. once this is done allow them to cool. Do this 3 times and your brakes will be bedded.

I believe the most important thing is to start a modern fuel injected car properly.With your foot off the gas turn the key to the second position. Wait a few seconds for the fuel pump to reach its' pressure. With your foot still off the gas turn the key and start the car. Modern electronics do not require you to goose the pedal for the car to start. This will prevent you from putting extra load on the engine when the engine is cold and the internals are unlubricated. Allow the engine to warm up a little before driving off. Even then don't go too hard for the first few minutes till the transmission, differential and brakes come up to temperature. Once this is accomplished DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!!!!

P.S. always use a torque wrench to tighten your lug nuts to the proper specifications in the proper sequence to prevent disc warpage.
If someone is using an impact gun to install your tires make sure they use a torque limiting socket on their gun.

NOTE: Common sense is always required. You shouldn't warm up your car in an enclosed garage nor should you be gentle on the brakes should a child jump out in front of the car.

thump_rrr · Apr 14, 2005

Sorry Duplicate

thump_rrr · Apr 14, 2005

Sorry Duplicate

shanedog · Apr 14, 2005

thump_rrr said:
NOTE: Common sense is always required. You shouldn't warm up your car in an enclosed garage nor should you be gentle on the brakes should a child jump out in front of the car.

Now thats funny Good post.

The way I can figure it is there is no right or wrong answer, just lots of unproved suggestions. The way I look at it every car on the street has been broken in in several different ways, and most people don't even know there is a break-in period, so no matter what you do your car should be fine.

nbk13nw · Apr 14, 2005

I found a very informative article a few months ago, a great read. Make of it what you will. Some hard evidence to back up his position. Use it or not... your call!

Break In Procedure

samckernan · Apr 14, 2005

nbk13nw said:
I found a very informative article a few months ago, a great read. Make of it what you will. Some hard evidence to back up his position. Use it or not... your call!

Break In Procedure

That's where I got the "engine braking (slowing the car with the engine)" instruction from. I don't know about changing the oil after 20 miles though.

crash · Apr 14, 2005

thump_rrr said:
I think the vary the revs thing is a load of bull myself although it can't hurt.
I don't think the rings can tell the difference between 3000 and 6000 RPM. It's still the same section of ring going over the same section of cylinder over and over again. as for the 1 hour or 3 hour or 24 hour driving once the lubricants are up to temp. The temp will remain constant. I have owned and operated heavy comercial trucks for a period of 8 years and rational thinking wins out over wives tales, superstitions,and hocus pocus every time.

When a vehicle is new bedding the brakes and seasoning the tires is the most important thing as well as a proper starting procedure.

The way I like to season tires is to bring them up to normal running temperature and then allowing them to cool down to ambient temperature 3 times before any sustained high speed driving is performed (120 MPH or over).
Normal everyday driving in north america should accomplish this. There is a good article in an old car and driver magazine where they ran a Ferrari Maranello on fresh tires at high speed and had severe problems with them.

Bedding the pads is very similar to seasoning the tires. You want to get the brakes up to temp without making any very hard stops. once this is done allow them to cool. Do this 3 times and your brakes will be bedded.

I believe the most important thing is to start a modern fuel injected car properly.With your foot off the gas turn the key to the second position. Wait a few seconds for the fuel pump to reach its' pressure. With your foot still off the gas turn the key and start the car. Modern electronics do not require you to goose the pedal for the car to start. This will prevent you from putting extra load on the engine when the engine is cold and the internals are unlubricated. Allow the engine to warm up a little before driving off. Even then don't go too hard for the first few minutes till the transmission, differential and brakes come up to temperature. Once this is accomplished DRIVE IT LIKE YOU STOLE IT!!!!

P.S. always use a torque wrench to tighten your lug nuts to the proper specifications in the proper sequence to prevent disc warpage.
If someone is using an impact gun to install your tires make sure they use a torque limiting socket on their gun.

NOTE: Common sense is always required. You shouldn't warm up your car in an enclosed garage nor should you be gentle on the brakes should a child jump out in front of the car.

When I was in college (Me Automotive Technology- My roomie- Auto Body), we used to build dune buggies with the 1800 and 2100 cc VW engines. At that time, we ALWAYS said break 'em in hard, they'll run hard. Never had a failure.

Fast Forward to degree completion and Ford training.

1-2000 miles, varying the RPM is best. Cruise control or not, taking a road trip should take you through all the conditions needed for a proper break in. Hit 2000 Miles? Time for boost! Heh! Duration is not an issue, mileage and varying the LOAD is.

Regarding the brakes, it is NEVER acceptable to use an IMPACT to install the wheels, torque stick or not. Use a torque wrench by HAND ONLY. If an impact is used, the rotors will be warped before the car hits the ground again... FROM EXPERIENCE. This means EVERY brake job or rotate!!!

88GTsocal · Apr 14, 2005

crash said:
Regarding the brakes, it is NEVER acceptable to use an IMPACT to install the wheels, torque stick or not. Use a torque wrench by HAND ONLY. If an impact is used, the rotors will be warped before the car hits the ground again... FROM EXPERIENCE. This means EVERY brake job or rotate!!!

Impact guns are used everywhere to install wheels. I use torque sticks everyday. If the user is competent, the rotors will not warp.

samckernan · Apr 14, 2005

88GTsocal said:
Impact guns are used everywhere to install wheels. I use torque sticks everyday. If the user is competent, the rotors will not warp.

I have my impact wrench (compressor) set to torque my lug nuts to 90 ft/lbs, then I go back around with a click torque wrench and torque to 105 ft/lbs (not a mustang) and I haven't had a problem with disc warpage.

Engine break-in

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