Engine Build Questions

ive said it once before its the additional weight from what i can see swapping in everything i need to put a 351w in the front would bump the front end weight about 200lbs when your drifting i need the car to be as balanced as possible.

:rolleyes: I'm sorry I didn't know you were building the car to drift. I figured we were doing this to actually go fast. My mistake, yes in that case go with a 302 oh mighty drifter. :hail2:

Psssst, btw the difference in the weight between the two motors would not be 200lbs. ;)
 
:rolleyes: I'm sorry I didn't know you were building the car to drift. I figured we were doing this to actually go fast. My mistake, yes in that case go with a 302 oh mighty drifter. :hail2:

Psssst, btw the difference in the weight between the two motors would not be 200lbs. ;)

fine whatever if its 20lbs or 200lbs it would still be a definat weight change forcing me to change the springs,swaybars, struts, on top of all the stuff required to change over to a 351 so i say it again im keeping the 302 let me say it once more IM KEEPING THE 302
 
LOL... the 302 is one strong running engine.. the oiling system is above the large crank journal on the W engine. and the ability to absorb the abuse( racing) in stock (ish) form is better for the slides, and twisties..

Just me........................................

Thumper

PS Have you seen they Mercedes commercial?? Now see that all that 451HP does...LOL!! Sweet!!
 
no its not i can argue reason all day long why i want a 302 but im not going to

I'm another one who would rather have a 302 than a 351. If people ever start buying cars again so I can make some money, I'll get a boss block, but in the meantime, I'll stay with a ford 302 roller.
I don't like cowl hoods, don't feel like playing with brackets to make it fit, don't want the extra weight on the front end, I'm not sure if a vortech will clear the hood. You pays your money and you makes your choices. To each their own.

If I had a question regarding turbo cars, I'd ask over at turbomustangs.com FWIW, I believe Millhouse on here is running on a stock shortblock with a homebuilt twin turbo setup and is over 450 hp with no problems.
 
no just because im a turbo man, all three of my trucks have turbos, my boat has twin rajay turbos from banks, i have far more expirience with turbos, i never said anything about the other drivers running turbos and that persuading my decision, im not turned off to say running a kenne bell but turbos are just what i prefer
 
your block wont crack at 400-450 hp. I had at least 430 at the crank. I can think of how many people i know of who are close to 500hp. For people to say its gonna crack at 400 hp is rediculous. Just my opinion

Agreed, just cuz someone's block went at 400 hp doesn't mean yours is....there's way too many variables.....engine balance, rpm, what kind of power adder, quality of the parts used, and the tune all effects if somethings going to blow at what power level.
 
I don't know if you've ever seen this kit, but I've never seen anything but a rave review of it..
B&G STAGE 1
Starting at: $2,750.00
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Requires no trimming. Is to be used with 79-90 Hatch back engine mounts. Keeps all accessories We have put great effort into making a great fitting kit that only needs to be built once, it is guarnteed to fit your mustang without you having to rebuild it just to get it to work. As long as your mustangs frame rails are where they supposed to be, I guarntee this kit to fit. No more cutting up your whole inner fenderwell just to get a ill fitting kit to work. WILL NOT WORK WITH CONVERTABLE STYLE MOUNTS!!!! If you want to run convertable style mounts you will have to cut on the car, or run spacers!!!!! Will Fit up to a PT-78.

79-93 5.0 KIT Hotside Comes with:

1. Drivers side, 16 Guage mild steel header with 1/2 flanges. 38 MM wg flange installed. Machined V-band flange out of DOM tubing.

2. Passengerside, 16 Guage mild steel header with 1/2 flanges. Machined V-band flange out of DOM tubing.

3. 16 guage mild steel crossover, with stainless flex joint, machined vband flanges.

4. 14 guage mild steel mandrel bent 3.5 downpipe.

5. Kit comes with your choice of turbo see selections below or call for pricing.

6. 38 MM Silver B&G Wastegate standard. Any bar up to 1 Bar. (higher available at higher cost.)

7. 1- Turbo outlet stainless v-band clamp

Cold side comes with:

1. VS RACING CROSS FLOW INTERCOOLER, or 600,750,825hp Precision units available upon request.

2. 2.5" turbo to I/C cold side pipe, with BOV flange installed.

3. 3" Intercooler to throttle body cold side pipe.

4. 50MM B&G/TC B.O.V

5. K&N air filter(or similiar filter)

COLD SIDE SILICONE KIT INCLUDES:

1. 2- 3" hts couplers

2. 2- 2.5 to 2.5 coupler

3. 4- 3" stainless band clamps

4. 4- 2.5" stainless band clamps

5.2- 2.5" stainless v-band clamps

OIL LINE KIT INCLUDES

Full oil line kit, all -an fittings Braided lines.

Comes with:

1. -10 Funtion 7 Turbo drain flange

2. Oil Pan Bung

3. -10 Oil drain line (Braided stainless steel with -an fittings on both ends.)

4. -4 Oil pressure line (Braided stainless steel with -an fittings on both ends.)

5. Turbo oil pressure inlet fitting.

6. Block fitting.

Shown with 3inch upgrade, and Black Ceramic coat.

link
 
I just got my turbo kit tuned . It is a Hellion heat kit. Has one 60mm turbo. I have a bone stock block out (explorer left overs). Trick flow heads and street intake an f303 cam. Thats about it. My problem when tuning the car was simply I ran out of fuel. I have 42# injectors, c&l maf, and a 255 intank pump. With 7# of boost mad 498.9 rwhp, and 559.8 pounds of torque. All at 4600 rpm. I don't know how long it will live with that much power, but my plans are to put together a boss302 based bottom end and up the fuel system. During the tune the hp was as high as 525-550. I was getting nervous because it is a hyperutectic 302 ci explorer bottom end . But it made what it made. And with only 7#s. I wish I would have known that a long time ago. I would have built a balanced girdled stock motor and blown through the stock intake, heads, throttle body, and sill made 500 hp with a little more boost.
The real problem with 500 hp is that everything else needs to be ready for that much power. The last thing you want is to try and feed that through a stock t5 and rear end. Speaking of rears turbo cars like their gear ratios some where in the 3.08-3.55 range gives the tiurbo a chance to spool up. I am running 3.55 and am about to go to 3.27. I have a viperspec t56 in between.
I read this some where not trying to offend but it said "Drifting is like ballet for cars, and last time I checked ballet is still gay!"
 
On my old TT setup, I made a modest 420 rwhp at 9psi for about 5 years and around 20k miles. As long as your block isn't over the hill on mileage, it'll take boost just fine. Don't even think about blowing your money on another stock block or forged internals.... That's just pissing it away without reason. If you want forged stuff, then by all means do it, but use some reason and find a used R302, A4, old Boss302, or a new aftermarket block from dart, world products, or FMS. However, keep in mind that all of these blocks outweigh a stocker by 70-100 lbs (possibly excepting the old Boss).

Chris
 
I just got my turbo kit tuned . It is a Hellion heat kit. Has one 60mm turbo. I have a bone stock block out (explorer left overs). Trick flow heads and street intake an f303 cam. Thats about it. My problem when tuning the car was simply I ran out of fuel. I have 42# injectors, c&l maf, and a 255 intank pump. With 7# of boost mad 498.9 rwhp, and 559.8 pounds of torque. All at 4600 rpm. I don't know how long it will live with that much power, but my plans are to put together a boss302 based bottom end and up the fuel system. During the tune the hp was as high as 525-550. I was getting nervous because it is a hyperutectic 302 ci explorer bottom end . But it made what it made. And with only 7#s. I wish I would have known that a long time ago. I would have built a balanced girdled stock motor and blown through the stock intake, heads, throttle body, and sill made 500 hp with a little more boost.
The real problem with 500 hp is that everything else needs to be ready for that much power. The last thing you want is to try and feed that through a stock t5 and rear end. Speaking of rears turbo cars like their gear ratios some where in the 3.08-3.55 range gives the tiurbo a chance to spool up. I am running 3.55 and am about to go to 3.27. I have a viperspec t56 in between.
I read this some where not trying to offend but it said "Drifting is like ballet for cars, and last time I checked ballet is still gay!"

well i disagree i think drifitng is like martial arts, it may not be as fast moving as other sports but it still requires the same amount of power with twice as much skill. look at it how you guys want i never said the car was ment only for drifting but i said thats its main purpose it still sees the track when i feel like going and waiting for hours to get 2 runs, and i still road race the cars at open track events by my house.