Engine Builders come in

tjm73 said:

This is a great thread. Very interesting. How much boost are you talking about? Maybe might want to think about O-ringing the block/heads. Other wise keep the updates coming.

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i was going to O-ring the deck, but after reading some opinions/first hand experiences i'm going to go with ARP head studs and cometic heads. they actually should hold better than headbolts/O-ring.

i think what i'm going to do is drop in the fresh motor NA and break it in like that for about 1000 miles or so then drop in the turbos. as far as PSI i'm thinking around 9psi for street and 14-16 with race gas for the track.

87stangdiddle said:

I had bought them too when i did my heads in school also last year. the intake ones pressed on but the exhaust just chilled there lol All they really do is act like a mini umbrella so the oil doesnt go down the valve guides and get burned in the combustion chamber. Although i no they make the same style of the intake seal (positive type seal i think theyre called) for the exhaust too. Well mine runs fine with those seals just chilling there. It does burn oil lol but thats from the blowby on my rings. Im also starting a "budget build." Good luck with urs

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yeah thats what i've been hearing from others about the exhaust one, but the intake is the one that should stay there but doesnt, maybe i have to crimp it onto the guide with the metal brace like thing its got around it. The thing though is that when i disassembeled them they had the same style seals on both intake/exhaust guides(they looked exactly like the new intake seals i have) and they also had a small(about 1/2 inch diameter hard plastic washer like deal on the valve stem, it was about an inch or so from the top of the guide seal when the valve was closed, it served i'm assuming as an umbrella like the one you said, it basically looks like that piece was an extra barrier to keep oil from sliding down the stem. should i just buy the intake seals and use those on the exhaust guides?

Blandnuts said:

Do you have a picture of the viton seals? I have white plastic ones with a metal band going around them and they don't seem to stay in place(rides up and down the valve). These came with the comp cam "package." I also have some black rubber with a metal band and the umbrella ones mentioned that came with the summit rebuild kit. I'm not having luck with the plastic ones so I'm wondering if the ones I have are good enough or should I try these Viton seals?



Fred

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i'm assuming these are going into a stock head. I would use the rubber ones instead, they should be pretty snug around the valve guide. i went ahead and used the rubber seals with the metal ring around the top and a metal band in the middle which is open to allow for expansion for the intake side and the regular umbrella like black seals for the exhaust, i wanted to use the intake ones on the exhaust side too since they were pretty snug ont he guide but some people mentioned i shouldnt use them in another board. before i bolt the heads up for good i'm going to ask a local engine builder see what he thinks/has done before about using the intake seals on the exhaust guides, i dont like the way the exhaust umbrella like seals ride up and down with the valve, it seems like they wouldnt protect as well as the intake ones.

on another side note as far as the shortblock goes its done, i need to save up a few more bucks for the arp head studs and cometic gaskets to get the long block compolete, once that happens i can bolt up the intake.
I wish i had a digital camera to take pictures as i go along and post them i'll just have to wait till i mostly finish the project or use up the roll of film to develop the pictures i currently have.
since my car has no heater/ac i went ahead and cut up the heater pipes that come up from the front of the lower intake from between the threaded part's hex head and the hexed piece that is connected to the tubes that swings around. i also cut off the round pice where the coolant temperature sensor goes and welded it to the other part i cut off the pices so as to get rid of the tubes and still have a place to get the temperature reading.
also i started on the headers, i'm using some equal lengths i had bought a while ago which never went into the car due to a bad motor mount i had and they would hit the k member mount plate/ steering shaft. i'm using a hacksaw... yes a hacksaw i bought from harbor freight tools for 5 bucks to cut up the headers and see what i can piece togeather. reason why i didnt just flip them around and weld to the flange is because it would be nearly impossible to get to the plugs that way. so far it looks like i'll be able to rework the headers without having to get any other mandrel bent pipes, thriftyness at its best. i'm tack welding the pices togeather to get the overall design going, then once i have it how i want it i'm going to weld it all. i also dont want to make the mistake of welding onc piece all the say just to find out it would have been easier to weld the pice thats attatched to that first since some of the seams fall behind a tube. hope its not too confusing, but i'll have pictures once i get them developed. i'll hopefully get the driver's side done tomorrow for i have off and then i'll move on to the passenger's side. should be more or less the same thing.

it was a while in between getting anything done, but i finally have some money so i'm going ahead with the project, just have a couple of questions.

whats the torque spec for the botl that holds the gear to the camshaft on a stock motor? I dont want to over/under tighten it. also how do you put the oil pump rod that turns it? does the bell like end go up to the distributor side? i'm real close to firing this motor up, i already ordered the ARP head studs and cometic gaskets and they should be here next week, hopefully i can get the motor in next weekend as well as the tubular K member. any advice on how to prime the motor? I know Autozone has a priming kit for rent but i'm not sure what it may consist of or how its used.

thanks for the tq spec. as far as the block being prepped its a no, all i did was check for flatness both on deck of block and the heads. i couldnt fit a .002 feeler gauge in them so they're as flat as can be.
i'm still a little unclear on the oil shaft, where does the clearance get measured? i ask because the shaft goes into the pump turning deal so i cant see a way of measuring clearance, now do you just go by "feel"?

so i'm thinking the .002 reading i got is good enough? and also as far as the oil pump rod so the bell shape end of the rod does go to the distributor right? thanks for all your help.

Also as far as the ARP headstuds, is there a tourque you apply to these to set them on the block? and then torque the nut with the heads on the block? meaning two different tourques? any help would be appreciated, this is all i need to do now to get the long block done and ready to break in and swap into the car, just waiting on the tubular QA1 K member

Update: The motor has been running for about 2 months now no problem, I've taken it up to 5600rpms already. Car runs smooth and no ticking noises. i went ahead and used stock type headgaskets with the ARP head studs. Hopefully i can put in a turbo system this summer. Thanks to everyone who helped out.