Engine Engine cuts out when warm, can't get codes

1990 5.0 Manual Fox. Engine gets to a certain temperature (not too hot) and stops and won't restart for about 15 minutes. Needed inspection anyway, so took it to shop. It passed, but they said it's running really lean, no codes coming out (the connector seems dead) and the computer only seems to get signal from the MAF sensor. They are tracing wires in their spare time, but it's going slow. The computer was replaced at a shop back around 2006 (not sure exactly what they put in). At first we tried replacing the distributor and TFI module, but no help. They replaced a damaged MAP sensor, but they said it's not getting voltage anyway. So....wiring harness corrosion? or bad computer? I did a quick search for those, in case, but availability seems tough. I've got it with me in Germany, so everything has to be shipped, no junkyards. It's high miles and used to be a daily driver, but now it's just for fun. Appreciate any advice.
 
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1990 5.0 Manual Fox. Engine gets to a certain temperature (not too hot) and stops and won't restart for about 15 minutes. Needed inspection anyway, so took it to shop. It passed, but they said it's running really lean, no codes coming out (the connector seems dead) and the computer only seems to get signal from the MAF sensor. They are tracing wires in their spare time, but it's going slow. The computer was replaced at a shop back around 2006 (not sure exactly what they put in). At first we tried replacing the distributor and TFI module, but no help. They replaced a damaged MAP sensor, but they said it's not getting voltage anyway. So....wiring harness corrosion? or bad computer? I did a quick search for those, in case, but availability seems tough. I've got it with me in Germany, so everything has to be shipped, no junkyards. It's high miles and used to be a daily driver, but now it's just for fun. Appreciate any advice.
The mechanic you are using doesn't have clue and is throwing parts and the problem in a wild attempt to fix the problem.

Here's the diagnostic test path and the fix for no computer codes and a host of other problems with the same root cause.

Computer will not go into diagnostic mode on 86-90 models 5.0 Mustangs .

Revised Dec 23 2107
1.) To clarify signal ground connections on the engine mounted fuel injector wiring harness and add diagram for the engine mounted fuel injector wiring harness
2.) To add warning about using an automatic transmission O2 sensor wiring harness with a A9L manual shift transmission computer.


]b]Disconnect the battery positive terminal before making any resistance checks.
The voltage drop in the ground cable will cause incorrect resistance readings.[/b]

How it is supposed to work:
The black/white wire (pin 46) is signal ground for the computer. It provides a dedicated ground for the EGR, Baro, ACT, ECT, & TPS sensors as well as the ground to put the computer into self test mode. If this ground is bad, none of the sensors mentioned will work properly. That will severely affect the car's performance. You will have hard starting, low power and drivability problems. Since it is a dedicated ground, it passes through the computer on its way to the computer main power ground that terminates at the battery pigtail ground. It should read less than 1.5 ohms when measured from any signal ground on the engine mounted fuel injector harness with the battery pigtail ground as the other reference point for the ohmmeter probe.

Engine mounted fuel injector wiring harness sensors for a 5.0 mustang
63347.gif


What sometimes happens is that the test connector black/white wire gets jumpered to power which either burns up the wiring or burns the trace off the pc board inside the computer. That trace connects pins 46 to pins 40 & 60.

OR

If an O2 sensor harness from an automatic transmission Mustang is used with an A9L manual shift transmission computer. The 12 volts from the automatic transmission starter circuit will damage the A9L computer.

The STI (Self Test Input) is jumpered to ground to put the computer into test mode. Jumpering it to power can produce unknown results, including damage to the computer. The ohm test simply verifies that there are no breaks in the wiring between the test connector and the computer input.

How to test the wiring:
With the power off, measure the resistance between the computer test ground (black/white wire) on the self test connector and battery ground. You should see less than 1.5 ohms.

attachments\58312


If that check fails, remove the passenger side kick panel and disconnect the computer connector. There is a 10 MM bolt that holds it in place. Measure the resistance between the black/white wire and pin 46 on the computer wiring connector: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More than 1.5 ohms is a wiring problem. If it reads 1.5 ohms or less, then the computer is suspect. On the computer, measure the resistance between pin 46 and pins 40 & 60: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More than that and the computer’s internal ground has failed, and the computer needs to be repaired or replaced.

While you have the computer connector disconnected from the computer, turn the ignition switch to the Start position and look for 12 volts on pin 46 of the computer wiring harness. If you see 12 volts then you have an automatic transmission O2 sensor harness. That will damage the A9L manual shift transmission computer.

See https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/computer-issue.749974/#post-7490537 for Joel5.0’s fix for the computer internal signal ground.

If the first ground check was good, there are other wires to check. Measure the resistance between the STI computer self test connector (red/white wire) and pin 48 on the computer main connector: it should be less than 1.5 ohms. More than 1.5 ohms is a wiring problem

The following is a view from the computer side of the computer wiring connector: it is for an A9L, A9P computer.
eec-iv-computer-connector-for-5-0-mustang-gif.gif


a9x-series-computer-connector-wire-side-view-gif.gif


Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

Check out the diagram and notice all the places the black/white wire goes. Almost every sensor on the engine except the MAF is connected to it.

88-91_5.0_EEC_Wiring_Diagram.gif


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds
(website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine

See the graphic for the 10 pin connector circuit layout.
?temp_hash=3ef2497fff29a7a9daee955cf93e5805.jpg
 
Great info, thanks. That should be really helpful. I have the Ford Service Manual on CD and gave him a copy, but he said it didn’t have all the info he needed. It can be tough to get a mechanic to work on an older American car here.
 
Here’s a follow-up. I boxed up the computer and sent it to SIA electronics in Tilden, IL for their repair service. They said the capacitors were leaking so they replaced them. Charged $120. We plugged it in and it runs normally, sensors are getting voltage again, and it gives codes. So, back on the road!
 
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