Engine hoisting?

SamSnyder · Jan 13, 2008

Is it safe to lift a 5.0 via the upper/lower manifold bolt holes? Summit sells an engine lift plate that bolts to the lower, but I've got an engine leveler with 4 corner chains and I'm wondering if I could just bolt them straight to the 4 outer upper/lower manifold bolt holes without the engine lift plate (using grade 8 bolts of course). Will the lower manifold support the load? Including with a 5 speed trans and front accessories? I've already got grade 8 bolts holding the lower manifold to the heads. Anybody ever done this? It would sure be a lot simpler than getting at the accessory bolt holes.

cardudeusa · Jan 13, 2008

I've wondered the same, but always worried about stripping out the holes.

93 LX · Jan 13, 2008

I lifted mine with the header bolts but Ihave also used the intake bolts as well. They do screw in to the head just make sure you use grade 8 bolts and they thread as far as possible in to the head.

4G-KDMP · Jan 13, 2008

i wouldn't chance putting undo stress on any one bolt stuck into the intakewhen you're in the process raising the motor to remove it. the lift plate put equal amount of pressure on all 4 bolts that's the only reason you can use a lift plate attached to the lower intake, no one point is that much weight it's all equal.

iapexl8r · Jan 13, 2008

theres no problem with it just use decent bolts. thats exactly how I do it .

chris

stykthyn · Jan 13, 2008

link to the summit plate??? I am curious about this one.

Fox8950 · Jan 13, 2008

I just welded up a lift plate that screwed into my lower with all 6 bolts and it has always worked fine, have pulled the motor/trans many times (a few times even full of oil still and w/ all accessories on it) I wouldn't ever try without all the bolts put in thats for sure but have had no issues with anything getting the threads pulled out of it.

SamSnyder · Jan 13, 2008

I think this is the link to the Summit part. If not, just search Summit for "Engine Lift Plate" and you'll get a few. The 5.0 one is obvious because of its shape: http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=SME-51590000&N=700+115&autoview=sku

Also, here's an article where they tested a store-bought lift plate on an Edelbrock 4 barrel manifold and the plate broke but the studs did not pull out. Then, they tested the author's homemade lift plate that was significantly stronger than the store bought one, and it pulled the studs out, but only after 5,400 pounds of pressure. And even there, the studs went one by one and managed to hold on.

http://www.mustangsplus.com/catalog/articles_lift_engine.pdf

wjhart3 · Jan 14, 2008

lift

i used the header bolts and actually two bolts were studs so i put chain on them -then a nut its problay easier with a plate but if you have leveler i wouldnt waste your money

SamSnyder · Jan 14, 2008

Now I'm thinking about just using the four corner lower manifold-to-head bolts. I invested in a set of grade 8 bolts for the manifold way back when I dropped the motor in, so I've already got them in there. Plus, I know I'll be holding on to the heads rather than the manifold.

Maryland Stang · Jan 14, 2008

Instead of chucking them when I put my new headers on I saved the factory lift plates. I just put them up on the shelf and they sat there for 3 years until I needed them. They work great.

90_Red_LX · Jan 14, 2008

I used 2 bolts that fit in the intake holes with washers and a leveler to pull and install my motor. Looking back I probably should've used 4 though, wasn't really smart.

irish · Jan 14, 2008

I vote for the accessory holes, intakes are expensive and motors are heavy, I'd use a head bolt before I would use an intake.

SamSnyder · Jan 20, 2008

The post script is that I did end up using the upper/lower manifold bolt holes in the lower, and it was no problem. My engine leveler has 4 chains, with angle irons at the ends. I bolted those to the 4 outer upper/lower bolt holes in the lower manifold, using 1.5" 5/16 grade-8 bolts and washers. They handled it with no problem whatsoever, including some big front/rear tilting, and notwithstanding the fact that I had the 5-speed attached plus all of the front accessories. In fact, I had to do some wailing on the engine assembly to get the trans loose after it was out of the car, and there was no hint of a problem with the fact that it was hanging by the upper/lower manifold bolt holes. I'd definitely do it this way again.

PUNISHER RACING · Jan 21, 2008

i always use straps around the entire engine I can't kill someones car over an engine swap

Maryland Stang · Jan 21, 2008

A lot of people here have a lot of faith in the ability of slivers of aluminum to hold over 1/4 ton of weight. The grade 8 bolts aren't necessary since the aluminum threads will give out long before a standard bolt will.

Black1987Stang · Jan 21, 2008

When we pull inboard and inboard/outboard boat engines we take 2 lower intake manifold bolts in one corner and one on the other side corner and hook the chain around a fork of a forklift and yank that baby out. We do this for every engine from 4 bangers to 454's, never had a problem that I know of.

also all with the water exhaust manifolds on them, if anybody ever worked on a boat and put on the exhaust manifolds you know they are HEAVY.

Engine hoisting?

SamSnyder

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cardudeusa

93 LX

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iapexl8r

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stykthyn

I want to measure mine. It doesn't look that tall.

Fox8950

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