Engine Is DOA- New build- measuring for zero deck?

Noobz347 · Mar 10, 2018

I have not had a chance to research your request to spend to money (I'm sure you're aware why hehe) but initial thoughts are these:

9.5ish+ final compression
If this were a an already proven system for boost, I might recommend hyper pistons but it's an experiment so, "no".
The rest is easy. Zero balanced and light weight. It doesn't need to withstand 1000 HP, it needs to be able to safely handle 550 HP and operate at 450.
Make up ALL of your mass at the flywheel with billet steel (I've tried aluminim with PD blowers and an not a fan).
The stock ignition is MORE THAN ENOUGH to handle this job. I might ad a boost-a-spark just to keep the coil saturated in ALL electrical conditions.

What else? I think you have all the other pieces and parts. Studs for everything, if you want a girdle just pay the shipping. Oh...

Harmonic balancer. Don't be a cheap bastard. No under drive pulleys.

Noobz347 · Mar 10, 2018

This may help you more than my last post. If nothing else, it will give you a starting comparison. These are nice kits and though the hype about their blocks is arguable, I think their rotating kits are pretty straight forward.

http://shop.dssracing.com/306_X5_rotating_kit_p/ra306x5.htm

Use it to help comparison shop with kits elsewhere knowing that all of these parts at least work well together.

a91what · Mar 10, 2018

Oohhh yeah..... my pockets ain't that deep. Lol. Zero balance I will have to do some research on.... love the idea but grounds for divorce.... Lol.
Appreciate the input

a91what · Mar 10, 2018

Here is what i have so far.....
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-154-4001
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cgt-c5511-030
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/dms-8720-4030
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-154-5408
the main stud kit could change based on main girdle or not.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/kgb-mb529hp/overview/make/ford
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/kgb-cr804hpn/overview/make/ford
both these links are for kings hp series bearings..... not sure if i need something this robust in my application.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tsr-s9090-30
not sure if a ring package like this is needed but looks pretty good to me.

I calculated my CR to be just under 10:1 with a zero deck and 64cc on my gt40 heads... they have been milled flat twice so not sure what they really are cc wise but cant to too much smaller.

Anyone see an issue with what i have picked out? this may change of course..... i dont really need stuff this nice but hell why not build the big list.

RaggedGT · Mar 10, 2018

I’m a fan of Kings bearings, I’m also a fan of GT40’s-but is budget the only reason you are not Upgrading?

a91what · Mar 10, 2018

RaggedGT said:
I’m a fan of Kings bearings, I’m also a fan of GT40’s-but is budget the only reason you are not Upgrading?

The heads have ALOT of work done to them, full port large valves and drilled for 7/16 studs.... with 10psi it wont matter what head is bolted to the shortblock its gonna make power.

a91what · Mar 10, 2018

I think i need to call tech support at summit or ?????? and get some advice I dont want to spend money on things i do not need.

RangerJoe · Mar 10, 2018

This may have already been said, but main studs and/or a girdle is going to mean an align hone on the mains. If your mains check out good, bolts will probably suffice, especially on a stock block.

Joe

a91what · Mar 10, 2018

Main bolts are they TTY or can they be reused?

General karthief · Mar 11, 2018

Mine are tty, there was some debate on here a while back about it, I would say at least 89 and newer for sure, I think the advantage to tty was you didn't have to go back and retorque. But I'm far from a mechanic, although I do have a 'shade tree'.

RangerJoe · Mar 11, 2018

a91what said:
Main bolts are they TTY or can they be reused?

There is so much debate over this that I really do not know. I have a friend that reused his several years back and it is still doing fine. When I had my block checked and machined i was told my mains were fine and the machinist made no fuss over the block having the stock bolts in the mains at the time. However, a few months later I mentioned that I had swapped to main studs and he quickly told me that the studs would require a hone and that he had measured the mains using bolts, not studs.

Joe

General karthief · Mar 11, 2018

karthief said:
Mine are tty, there was some debate on here a while back about it, I would say at least 89 and newer for sure, I think the advantage to tty was you didn't have to go back and retorque. But I'm far from a mechanic, although I do have a 'shade tree'.

To prove once again that I'm not very good at speed reading, I spoke about head bolts not mains, just call me a boob!

a91what · Mar 11, 2018

Gotcha so if I buy arp bolts I 'shouldn't' need a line hone. Studs I likely will..... depending on price I may just have it done anyway. What does something like this cost?

CarMichael Angelo · Mar 11, 2018

I've never heard of tty anything in a Windsor. I had tty head bolts in the 4.6.

I've always thought it a waste of money to buy main studs in a small Windsor. Considering that the block blows the whole main saddle out of it, what difference does it make how the crank is fastened to it after all of that junk is hanging out of the block?

RangerJoe · Mar 11, 2018

a91what said:
Gotcha so if I buy arp bolts I 'shouldn't' need a line hone. Studs I likely will..... depending on price I may just have it done anyway. What does something like this cost?

When you take your block to the machinist, carry the hardware with you that you intend to run and have him measure and machine with it in place. Most times bolts to bolts do not require an align hone. And I want to say it ran around $400, but it's been a while.

Joe

General karthief · Mar 11, 2018

I heard through the stang vine that steve found a block at some really sketchy back alley chop shop today but he had an appointment with a honey do list. Any bets on what he did ?
Grab the sketchy block and strip it down
Honey do list

a91what · Mar 11, 2018

Engine is home, I already stripped the heads off. Very very small ridge on the cylinder wall barely grabs a finger nail.

General karthief · Mar 11, 2018

Do ya think that guy in the wal mart parking lot ever noticed his engine was gone?

a91what · Mar 11, 2018

Nah we were done faster than it took to go shopping.

a91what · Mar 12, 2018

Got the pan off the block, factory trw pistons the crosshatching is good in all but one cylinder. That one cylinder looks like it was either damaged or had a fluid of some kind sitting in it for a LONG time. Way past the fingernail test in that bore, only thing I can do is to rip it apart and take the whole thing down to the machine shop and have them tell me what's up. If it can be fixed by going .03 over fine if it will require more than that the hunt will continue.

Engine Is DOA- New build- measuring for zero deck?

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor

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Been here over a DECADE and still no CT

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I leave the horn on while driving

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wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

I leave the horn on while driving

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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my rearend will smell so minty fresh,

I leave the horn on while driving

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

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