Engine limiters, BF chain, or Torq limiters

speedy66 · Mar 11, 2004

Anyone run a bar or chain to limit the torqing motion of the motor on a street car.. some of my buddies run them on their race cars. But i had my hood off today and when i got on it.. it looked like i was going to rip my mounts apart. getting solid mounts is out for right now due to pricing..

I was just wondering if anyone runs a device to limit the torqing motion of their motors on street cars.. benefits or drawbacks?

Lswhat · Mar 11, 2004

refer to how much torque can my frame take thread and see a pic. alot of people here do run them.

dodgestang · Mar 11, 2004

Here is my very simple and easy hard ware store aquired torque strap:

I replaced the rear bolt on the sway bar with a close eye bolt and torqued that in. Then I used a bolt in the head and a ajustable tensioning rod in the middle with a closable c link on the bottom to make it easy to get in and out.

I think I spent $12 on this whole assembly.

1320stang · Mar 11, 2004

dodgestang said:
Here is my very simple and easy hard ware store aquired torque strap:

I replaced the rear bolt on the sway bar with a close eye bolt and torqued that in. Then I used a bolt in the head and a ajustable tensioning rod in the middle with a closable c link on the bottom to make it easy to get in and out.

I think I spent $12 on this whole assembly.

If those eyelets aren't welded shut, you may want to weld them up. I had one of those and I had to give it about a turn after every pass. Although it doesn't look as cool, strap steel and a piece of angle with a few bolts are the best deal.

dodgestang · Mar 11, 2004

1320stang said:
If those eyelets aren't welded shut, you may want to weld them up. I had one of those and I had to give it about a turn after every pass. Although it doesn't look as cool, strap steel and a piece of angle with a few bolts are the best deal.

I keep an eye on it, I haven't had any problems so far with the eye lets opening but thanks for the tip. I also tend to baby it a little bit so far though and it hasn't made it to the track yet.

speedy66 · Mar 12, 2004

question.. how much slack is there? none?

Unrelated but I have a question is that fuel filter after the pump or before the pump?

1320stang · Mar 12, 2004

speedy, You don't want any slack.

dodge, we were turning 11.0s in the quarter, launching at 6400 and shifting at 8000, that might have something to do with it.

dodgestang · Mar 12, 2004

speedy66 said:
question.. how much slack is there? none?

Unrelated but I have a question is that fuel filter after the pump or before the pump?

There is no slack in the strap I set up. I install it and then adjust it till its tight with the motor off.

The filter is before the pump. (its a mechanical fuel pump car)

When the car goes to the track if I have slicks it will aluch about 2800, if not, I will need to lauch at like 1000 or less to keep the tires from liquifing....I can imagine those high RPM lauches pulling this set up apart, but for a street/rare strip use car I think it does the trick nicely.

GT2K · Mar 12, 2004

Bolt through the rubber mount will work wonders too. I used 2 large carriage bolts through the driver side mount. Ground the tops flat and welded the nuts on the backside. Has held strong for 5+ years or so now. Before that I ripped 2 mounts in under 200 miles.

If you have aluminum heads I would not be comfortable strapping the car with 'em... but that's just me.

speedy66 · Mar 12, 2004

The filter is before the pump. (its a mechanical fuel pump car)

I thought on mechanical pumps you run it after the pump. to avoid cavitation?

Ok.. made my torque strap today.. grade 8 bolt for the head $0.42.. turnbuckle $2.08.. C clip $2.50..Grade 8 eye bolt..$0.72.. 3/8 hex nut..$0.06 for a grand total of $5.78

GT2K · Mar 12, 2004

dodgestang said:
Here is my very simple and easy hard ware store aquired torque strap:

I replaced the rear bolt on the sway bar with a close eye bolt and torqued that in. Then I used a bolt in the head and a ajustable tensioning rod in the middle with a closable c link on the bottom to make it easy to get in and out.

I think I spent $12 on this whole assembly.

Nick,
In all honesty that does not look like a fuel system that will support 400hp... I'll likely be proven wrong but you are starving that puppy.

dodgestang · Mar 12, 2004

GT2K said:
Nick,
In all honesty that does not look like a fuel system that will support 400hp... I'll likely be proven wrong but you are starving that puppy.

Jay you might be right....the fuel system prob the one area of the car I have not touched. I have a new tank and sender, and a new pump, but I am using the lines that were in the car when I got it.

Once I get finished with this dyno run I should be able to walk away with a good action plan for enhancements. I am getting a full air fuel set up so if I start leaning out on the top end I'll have a pretty good idea where to start looking bottlenecks.

1320stang · Mar 13, 2004

dodgestang said:
Jay you might be right....the fuel system prob the one area of the car I have not touched. I have a new tank and sender, and a new pump, but I am using the lines that were in the car when I got it.

Once I get finished with this dyno run I should be able to walk away with a good action plan for enhancements. I am getting a full air fuel set up so if I start leaning out on the top end I'll have a pretty good idea where to start looking bottlenecks.

We had a Mallory Comp 140 electric fuel pump on my 289 with the dual 660's on the T-ram and it was running out of gas on the top end. No scoop, but we had a filter on it (since no scoop, flame arrestor is required) so the speed wasn't pulling it out the vents. Put a BG280 on it and it was fine. Now that exact same 140 is in the '68 coupe the motor is in now, but it only has 1 carb to feed, a ProSystems 830DP, and it seems to do fine.

Engine limiters, BF chain, or Torq limiters

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