Engine mounts? Solid, Poly, Stock? And Why?
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QDRHRSE
New Member
Poly=waste of money
1)Buy stock convertible mounts. 2)Or, if you don't mind a little noise and vibration, its hard to beat solids. 3)You could go with a solid on the torque side of the engine and a stocker on the other. My personal experience is the poly mounts are a waste of money. Why? Because they are definitely not solid and don't feel, in my opinion, a whole lot different than convertible mounts. Its not easy to break stock mounts unless you're on slicks all the time....poly is great for suspension but I'm not sure its worth it for motor mounts. Tim, are ya a really aggressive road ragin' racer....if no, stock convertible mounts $20 each.
1)Buy stock convertible mounts. 2)Or, if you don't mind a little noise and vibration, its hard to beat solids. 3)You could go with a solid on the torque side of the engine and a stocker on the other. My personal experience is the poly mounts are a waste of money. Why? Because they are definitely not solid and don't feel, in my opinion, a whole lot different than convertible mounts. Its not easy to break stock mounts unless you're on slicks all the time....poly is great for suspension but I'm not sure its worth it for motor mounts. Tim, are ya a really aggressive road ragin' racer....if no, stock convertible mounts $20 each.
SuperchargedB87
Founding Member
I run solids in my car and I can honestly say the vibration is not that bad and they are definately streetable. But if you put the solid motor mounts in you want to also put a solid trans mount in as well.
I have the Energy Suspension Polyurethane mounts, engine and tranny. You feel the engine more, but I like it that way. I drove with the hood off and the engine moves a little but not like stock. They are kind of pricy though. Maby I should have gone with solids. I did a similar post when I did my mounts and I was told that solid mounts may break the K member and tranny crossmember, but I really doubt it.
I've heard a good combo is soilid engine mounts with a polyurethane trans mount. The tranny mount is only about $25 anyways.
Convertable mounts? I don't know enough to throw in my .02 into this pond. Maby a cheaper alternative?
I've heard a good combo is soilid engine mounts with a polyurethane trans mount. The tranny mount is only about $25 anyways.
Convertable mounts? I don't know enough to throw in my .02 into this pond. Maby a cheaper alternative?
I have Maximum Motorsports solid mounts and I love them. I can't feel any more vibration than before and I can really tell the differance than my stocks when I get in the gas almost more responsive i guess.
SuperchargedB87 i will have to disagree on solid motor and tranny. i looked into it for months before I went with solid motor and poly tranny mounts. The consensus was the poly is pretty stiff but gives a lil to relieve stress on the tranny. The solid motor mounts make the motor solid from twisting but you want to have a lil give up and down on the tail of the tranny
SuperchargedB87 i will have to disagree on solid motor and tranny. i looked into it for months before I went with solid motor and poly tranny mounts. The consensus was the poly is pretty stiff but gives a lil to relieve stress on the tranny. The solid motor mounts make the motor solid from twisting but you want to have a lil give up and down on the tail of the tranny
The Shape
Founding Member
I have the poly mounts and they are definently stiffer than stock could feel the engine more after putting them in. I like them alot, but I have no idea what the vert mounts feel like they may be a cheap alternative to poly I just assume that the poly will hold up longer than rubber could be wrong though.
I just assume that the poly will hold up longer than rubber could be wrong though.
tm4mcgrath1
Founding Member
Convertible, poly and soild are all good choices depending on what you want. Personally I had bad experiances using stock replacement motor mounts from the parts store, not because they wore out, but because the threads on the stud that goes into the K-member were different from the threads on the original motor mounts and finding new nuts that fit was a major pain.
I couldnt help but wonder why some company out there doesnt just make a hollow metal motor mount and fill it with some kind of dampening material, sort of like a harmonic damper. It seems to me that you would have the best of both worlds then with the strength of a solid mount, but some of the vibration absorbtion of the poly and rubber mounts. It's a good idea. Somebody take it and make money off of my ingenuity
I couldnt help but wonder why some company out there doesnt just make a hollow metal motor mount and fill it with some kind of dampening material, sort of like a harmonic damper. It seems to me that you would have the best of both worlds then with the strength of a solid mount, but some of the vibration absorbtion of the poly and rubber mounts. It's a good idea. Somebody take it and make money off of my ingenuity
Great replies folks thanks.... So whats the difference between the vert mounts and the hatch mounts? I forgot that was even an option. I went to Autozone the other day and they looked up the mounts and showed me one for 60 bucks....it wasnt even the right mount! I asked to see the screen and they put it in right but the part number was off base for sure.
bighoss88lx
Founding Member
I have the convertible mounts with poly tranny mount. Seems to work good. The stock mounts you want are the convertible mounts from a 93. There built like the poly mounts and are stronger than the normal mounts.
The convertible mounts look completely differrent than the stock mounts, and seem to be totally wrong untill you realize they replace the upper bracket that bolts to the motor as well. The big advantage is the convertible mounts actually have a mechanical interlock, compared to the stock mounts that can tear and completely seperate. Heck, I could have pulled my motor without unbolting the mounts 
My motor finally sits nice and firm in the chassis again.
Poly mounts are a good choice, unfortunately the ones for a 5.0 are incredibly expensive, I would just go for the convertible mounts.
Solid mounts are really only for racing use. The vibration they transmit into the chassis will eventually cause all sorts of problems with a street driven car given enough time. There is a reason the motor mounts are designed to give beyond comfort etc. Expect a higher probababilty of stress cracking etc over time.
BTW some of the new OEM motor mounts are in fact liquid filled (viscous) couplings. This is common in higher end import models Lexus etc..
My motor finally sits nice and firm in the chassis again.Poly mounts are a good choice, unfortunately the ones for a 5.0 are incredibly expensive, I would just go for the convertible mounts.
Solid mounts are really only for racing use. The vibration they transmit into the chassis will eventually cause all sorts of problems with a street driven car given enough time. There is a reason the motor mounts are designed to give beyond comfort etc. Expect a higher probababilty of stress cracking etc over time.
BTW some of the new OEM motor mounts are in fact liquid filled (viscous) couplings. This is common in higher end import models Lexus etc..
bighoss88lx
Founding Member
QDRHRSE
New Member
Same problem with poly mounts
tm4mcgrath1,
I had the same problem with the studs on my energy suspension poly mounts. I could not find a nut to fit. I've also experienced that problem with stock replacements. Sometimes the ones from the Autoparts store have excess paint and junk on the studs....I learned to wirewheel those things first.
Toolman- you could have the same problem. Make sure you have the correct nuts for the motor mount studs before you put them in. You should not have to force the nuts on. Beware. This is something that we are all ashamed to talk about....I've ruined mounts by trying to force the hardware on. Please don't tell anybody!
tm4mcgrath1,
I had the same problem with the studs on my energy suspension poly mounts. I could not find a nut to fit. I've also experienced that problem with stock replacements. Sometimes the ones from the Autoparts store have excess paint and junk on the studs....I learned to wirewheel those things first.
Toolman- you could have the same problem. Make sure you have the correct nuts for the motor mount studs before you put them in. You should not have to force the nuts on. Beware. This is something that we are all ashamed to talk about....I've ruined mounts by trying to force the hardware on. Please don't tell anybody!
For 93 they used the same part# for the vert and hardtop since they finally figured out the hardtop mounts were crappy.
According to the AZ website you want Anchor 2726 $28.99 for pass side, and Anchor 2725 $21.99 Drivers side. I thought I got ripped when I bought mine last year
According to the AZ website you want Anchor 2726 $28.99 for pass side, and Anchor 2725 $21.99 Drivers side. I thought I got ripped when I bought mine last year
bighoss88lx
Founding Member
engine mounts
I have the same problem with the studs on the motor mounts. I finally found nuts to fit the one's from autozone.I put them on along with a trans mount, also from autozone, I took it out for maybe the 5th time since I put them on and broke them already. There brand new mounts and that should have not happened.
I have the same problem with the studs on the motor mounts. I finally found nuts to fit the one's from autozone.I put them on along with a trans mount, also from autozone, I took it out for maybe the 5th time since I put them on and broke them already. There brand new mounts and that should have not happened.
what could happen if i had solid motor and tranny mounts. i was told that you could have some good stock mounts and get 2 HD hose clamps that will wrap around both sides of the mount on each side of the stud.this will give you a more solid mount and still won't viberate bad. i have solid motor and tranny mounts and it doesn't shake that bad.
