Engine Oil Priming Question

martispeed07

New Member
Jul 23, 2015
6
0
1
michigan
I have always loved mustangs. Recently decided to buy one as a project. I am new to the forum and excited to learn and talk with other mustang lovers. This is also my first thread. Hers my question. So i have a used 302 from a 95 gt I am swapping into my 94 I purchased with a blown motor. It's been sitting a while. Years maybe. Didtributor is still on. I have already primed the oil pump and installed. Being EFI. In theory as long as I wot and let it crank for a bit it should prime the engine correct? If this is true how long is necessary?
 
  • Sponsors (?)


I've heard of using the priming tool, though I've never used one, you could make one out of an old distributor if you have one from the old or new engine you're not using (remove the gear and use a drill on the shaft).

It may be a good idea with a motor that's sat a long while and that hasn't been coated in assembly lube. You could also squirt a little oil (even a blast of wd-40) into the spark plug holes to help it while cranking if it may have gotten corroded over the years.

In my experience, just removing the coil lead, and cranking for about 15 seconds 2 or 3 times (give the starter time to cool) will more than build up full pressure. Your oil pressure gauge should also show "normal" pressure while doing this (it's really just an on / off gauge in the dash). You could also verify by doing this before installing the upper intake and removing a valve cover to watch the oil getting to the rockers.
 
You really should remove the distributor and use the priming tool. You are actually supposed to rotate the engine over with a wrench, while using the priming tool.

I know you are concerned about the distributor. There is an easy marking method to get it back in right. I recommend using White-Out (Correction fluid) for marking the distributor position. For some reason it works the best. Make one mark from the distributor to the block at the base. Pull the distributor cap, and make a mark on the edge directly where the rotor is pointing. If you get it back in with those two marks lining up, it should be close enough to where it was before to start.

Welcome to Stangnet.

Kurt
 
I did not think about removing the coil lead. And yes Kurt i am a little bit concerned about removing and reinstalling distributor. I guess IV gone this far i probably should. It'sabout the only thing left other than internals which seam to be in great shape. If I remove stock distributor from a 130k mile motor than i should just replace it with maybe a msd? Or another brand?