Engine pings and has a surging idle on warm start up

Alden12

New Member
May 10, 2018
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Pennsylvania
Hi, I have a 1988 5.0 GT and ever since i’ve had it (1+ year) its been pinging on regular 87 gas. I’ve counteracted this by using 93 and the pinging goes away for the most part but this is not ideal as she is a daily and with the 8-13 mpg i’ve been achieving, thats alot of money. Ive tried alot of different things to solve this issue; Spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor, EGR, etc. I believed at the time I narrowed it down to a vacuum leak somewhere on the intake manifold. I thought also I might as well have another intake put on during this time as well. (A Typhoon upper, Edelbrock lower. it was the stock H.O. one before) I also had this done at a shop because I don’t really have the space or time to do so in my driveway. I was wrong in thinking this would solve my issue and it actually created another one as well. On cold start up, everything is fine, the car shakes a bit more than usual but thats not too big of a deal IMO. But after driving for 15-20 minutes, and starting back up the idle begins to surge for anywhere from 5-15 seconds before eventually settling down. I also noticed there was a line leading to the charcoal canister being closed under its own pressure. I replaced it and at first that seemed to get rid of my issue. But fast forward 2 days and here we are. Idk if that is related at all. Could just be a big coincidence as well. I’m leading myself to believe the Coolant Temperature Sensor could be at fault since my Temp gauge doesn’t work and i’ve heard that is a possibility. Also heard the ACT and IAC as well. This car needs other work done to her and this is making me pull my hair out. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks.

Also I pulled the following OBD1 codes: 94R, 44R, and 33R. Thanks.
 
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On the 5.0 tech page, I also moved this there, look for the technical/tips section, in there you will find 'the surging idle checklist ' start at the beginning and go step by step, don't skip around. And yes you make matters worse by swapping bigger, better, faster, more stuff before fixing the basic stuff but it can still be done. Do the checklist, it will save you time and money.
 
On the 5.0 tech page, I also moved this there, look for the technical/tips section, in there you will find 'the surging idle checklist ' start at the beginning and go step by step, don't skip around. And yes you make matters worse by swapping bigger, better, faster, more stuff before fixing the basic stuff but it can still be done. Do the checklist, it will save you time and money.

Ok I’m definitely going to check that out. But as for the pinging (my main issue), do you have any thoughts on that. Because like I said before, the surging idle wasn’t a problem a week ago and the pinging has been around since I bought the car. Also its just basic mods that are done to the car: A BBK CAI, off-road x-pipe, flowmaster mufflers, no cats, And the aftermarket upper and lower intake. Everything else is bone stock to my knowledge. Thanks man.
 
Raw gas or burnt fumes?
did you change the timing per factory institutions? Pull the spout and reset the computer?
I would like to say it smells like alittle bit of both. It kinda depends on the situation. Like sometimes when i’m driving I smell raw gas but when I’m working on it while its on, it smells like its running rich.
Also the intake was put on by a mechanic so he was the one who reset it to factory timing. I can’t speak for whether or not it was done per factory instructions.
Also don’t mean to sound like a noob but what exactly is the SPOUT? lol
 
I would like to say it smells like alittle bit of both. It kinda depends on the situation. Like sometimes when i’m driving I smell raw gas but when I’m working on it while its on, it smells like its running rich.
Also the intake was put on by a mechanic so he was the one who reset it to factory timing. I can’t speak for whether or not it was done per factory instructions.
Also don’t mean to sound like a noob but what exactly is the SPOUT? lol
Putting the distributor back in and setting the timing.

[Revised 28-Apr-2018 to add photo & description of the SPOUT connector and SPOUT jumper .

You can forget about anything beyond this point if you don't have access to a timing light. You will never get the timing set right without one.

Note: If you don't have access to a timing light, most of the larger auto parts stores will rent or loan one if you have a credit card or leave a cash deposit.



Putting the distributor back in is fairly simple. Pull #1 sparkplug, put your finger in the sparkplug hole, crank the engine until you feel compression. Then line up the TDC mark on the balancer with the pointer on the engine block.

The distributor starts out with the #1 plug wire lined up at about 12:00 with you facing it. Align the rotor to about 11:00, since it will turn clockwise as it slides into place.

Align the distributor rotor up with the #1 position marked on the cap, slide the distributor down into the block, (you may have to wiggle the rotor slightly to get the gear to engage) and then note where the rotor is pointing.
If it still lines up with #1 position on the cap, install the clamp and bolt. If not, pull it out and turn 1 tooth forwards or backwards and try again. Put the #1 spark plug back in and tighten it down, put the clamp on the distributor, but don't tighten it too much, as you will have to move the distributor to set the timing. Note that there is no such thing as one tooth off on a 5.0 Mustang if you follow the spark plug wire order on the distributor cap. If it doesn't align perfectly with #1 position, you can turn the distributor until it does. The only problem is that if you are too far one way or the other, you can't turn the distributor enough to get the 10-14 degree optimum timing range. If the TFI prevents the distributor from being turned enough to get 14°, there is a simple fix. Pull the distributor out and turn the rotor 1 tooth counterclockwise Don't move the wires from the positions shown on the cap on fuel injected engines!!!! The #1 position cast into the cap MUST have the spark plug wire for #1 cylinder in it. Do it differently and the timing for the fuel injectors will be off. The computer uses the PIP sensor to time injector operation by sensing the wide slot in the PIP sensor shutter wheel. If the injector timing of #1 and the firing of #1 do not occur at the right time, the injector timing for all other cylinders will be affected.

Setting the timing:
Paint the mark on the harmonic balancer with paint -choose 10 degrees BTC or 14 degrees BTC or something else if you have NO2 or other power adder. I try to paint TDC red, 10 degrees BTC white and 14 degrees BTC blue.

10 degrees BTC is towards the drivers side marks.

Note: setting the timing beyond the 10 degree mark will give you a little more low speed acceleration. BUT you will need to run 93 octane to avoid pinging and engine damage. Pinging is very hard to hear at full throttle, so it could be present and you would not hear it.

Simplified diagram of what it looks like. Not all the marks are shown for ease of viewing.

ATC ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' '!' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' ' BTC
---------------- > Direction of Rotation as viewed standing in front of the engine.

The ' is 2 degrees.
The ! is TDC
The ' is 10 degrees BTC
Set the timing 5 marks BTC. Or if you prefer, 5 marks towards the driver's side to get 10 degrees.

To get 14 degrees, set it 7 marks BTC. Or if you prefer, 7 marks towards the driver's side to get 14 degrees.

The paint marks you make are your friends if you do it correctly. They are much easier to see than the marks machined into the harmonic balancer hub.

At this point hook up all the wires, get out the timing light. Connect timing light up to battery & #1 spark plug. Then start the engine.

Remove the SPOUT jumper
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It is the 2 pin rectangular plug on the distributor wiring harness. Only the EFI Mustang engines have a SPOUT. If yours is not EFI, check for a SPOUT: if you don’t find one, skip any instructions regarding the SPOUT. The SPOUT (Spark Out) enables the computer to control the spark advance. When the SPOUT is removed, the ignition timing reverts to the base ignition timing set by either the spark rod inside the distributor or the physical position of the distributor.

Warning: there are only two places the SPOUT should be when you time the engine. The first place is in your pocket while you are setting the timing and the second is back in the harness when you finish. The little bugger is too easy to lose and too hard to find a replacement.

Start engine, loosen distributor hold down with a 1/2" universal socket. Shine the timing light on the marks and turn the distributor until the mark lines up with the edge of the timing pointer. Tighten down the distributor hold down bolt, Replace the SPOUT jumper and you are done.

The HO firing order is 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8.
Non HO firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8

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Your problem is symptomatic of ignition timing set too far advanced.
 

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Thank you very much for all that info. Its very helpful. I’ve located the spout and will follow those instructions. My only concern is the fact of the EGR codes it’s throwing which led me to believe it was a vacuum leak in the first place. Is it possible that it could be both? Thx again.
 
Thank you very much for all that info. Its very helpful. I’ve located the spout and will follow those instructions. My only concern is the fact of the EGR codes it’s throwing which led me to believe it was a vacuum leak in the first place. Is it possible that it could be both? Thx again.
Code 33 - Insufficient EGR flow detected.
Look for vacuum leaks, cracked vacuum lines, failed EGR vacuum regulator. Check to see if you have 10” of vacuum at the EGR vacuum connection coming from the intake manifold. Look for electrical signal at the vacuum regulator solenoid valves located on the rear of the passenger side wheel well. Using a test light across the electrical connector, it should flicker as the electrical signal changes. Remember that the computer does not source any power, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.
Check for resistance between the brown/lt green wire on the EGR sensor and pin 27 on the computer: you should have less than 1.5 ohm.

Backside view of the computer wiring connector:
a9x-series-computer-connector-wire-side-view-gif.gif


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif


EGR test procedure courtesy of cjones

to check the EGR valve:
bring the engine to normal temp.

connect a vacuum pump to the EGR Valve or see the EGR test jig drawing below. Connect the test jig or to directly to manifold vacuum.

Do not connect the EGR test jig to the EVR (Electronic Vacuum Regulator).


apply 5in vacuum to the valve. Using the test jig, use your finger to vary the vacuum

if engine stumbled or died then EGR Valve and passage(there is a passageway through the heads and intake) are good.

if engine did NOT stumble or die then either the EGR Valve is bad and/or the passage is blocked.

if engine stumbled, connect EGR test jig to the hose coming off of the EGR Valve.
Use your finger to cap the open port on the vacuum tee.
snap throttle to 2500 RPM (remember snap the throttle don't hold it there).
did the vacuum gauge show about 2-5 in vacuum?
if not the EVR has failed

EGR test jig
egr-test-jig-gif.gif


The operation of the EGR vacuum regulator can be checked by using a test light applied across the wiring connector. Jumper the computer into self test mode and turn the key on but do not start the engine. You will hear all the actuators (including the EVR vacuum regulator) cycle. Watch for the light to flicker: that means the computer has signaled the EGR vacuum regulator successfully.



Codes 44 & 94 - AIR system inoperative - Air Injection. Check vacuum lines for leaks, & cracks. Check for a clogged air crossover tube, where one or both sides of the tube clog with carbon.

attachments\50636



Revised 21 Sep 2012 to correct the description of the process that sets the code and include Thermactor Air System diagram.

If you have a catalytic converter H pipe, you need to fix these codes. If you don't, then don't worry about them.

Code 44 passenger side air not functioning.
Code 94 driver side air not functioning.

The TAD solenoid/TAD diverter valve directs smog pump output to either the crossover tube attached to the cylinder heads or to the catalytic converters.

The O2 sensors are placed before the catalytic converters, so they do not see the extra O2 when the smog pump's output is directed to the converters or the input just before the converter.

The 44/94 code uses the O2 sensors to detect a shift in the O2 level in the exhaust. The smog pump provides extra air to the exhaust which raises the O2 level in the exhaust when the smog pump output is directed through the crossover tube.

When there is an absence of increase in the O2 levels when the TAD solenoid/TAD diverter valve directs air through the crossover tube, it detects the lower O2 level and sets the code.

Failure mode is usually due to a clogged air crossover tube, where one or both sides of the tube clog with carbon. The air crossover tube mounts on the back of the cylinder heads and supplies air to each of the Thermactor air passages cast into the cylinder heads. When the heads do not get the proper air delivery, they set codes 44 & 94, depending on which passage is clogged. It is possible to get both 44 & 94, which would suggest that the air pump or control valves are not working correctly, or the crossover tube is full of carbon or missing.

Testing the system:
Note that the engine must be running to do the tests unless stated otherwise. For safety’s sake, do test preparation like loosening clamps, disconnecting hoses and connecting things to a vacuum source with the engine off.


Disconnect the big hose from smog pump: with the engine running you should feel air output. Reconnect the smog pump hose & apply vacuum to the first vacuum controlled valve: Its purpose is to either dump the pump's output to the atmosphere or pass it to the next valve.

The next vacuum controlled valve directs the air to either the cylinder heads when the engine is cold or to the catalytic converter when the engine is warm. Disconnect the big hoses from the back side of the vacuum controlled valve and start the engine. Apply vacuum to the valve and see if the airflow changes from one hose to the next.

The two electrical controlled vacuum valves mounted on the rear of the passenger side wheel well turn the vacuum on & off under computer control. Check to see that both valves have +12 volts on the red wire. Then ground the white/red wire and the first solenoid should open and pass vacuum. Do the same thing to the light green/black wire on the second solenoid and it should open and pass vacuum.

Remember that the computer does not source power for any actuator or relay, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

The following computer tests are done with the engine not running.
The computer provides the ground to complete the circuit to power the solenoid valve that turns the
vacuum on or off. The computer is located under the passenger side kick panel. Remove the kick panel & the cover over the computer wiring connector pins. Check Pin 38 Solenoid valve #1 that provides vacuum to the first Thermactor control valve for a switch from 12-14 volts to 1 volt or less. Do the same with pin 32 solenoid valve #2 that provides vacuum to the second Thermactor control valve. Turning the ignition to Run with the computer jumpered to self-test mode will cause all the actuators to toggle on and off. If after doing this and you see no switching of the voltage on and off, you can start testing the wiring for shorts to ground and broken wiring. An Ohm check to ground with the computer connector disconnected & the solenoid valves disconnected should show open circuit between the pin 32 and ground and again on pin 38 and ground. In like manner, there should be less than 1 ohm between pin 32 and solenoid valve #2 and pin 38 & Solenoid valve #1.

The following computer tests are done with the engine running.
If after checking the resistance of the wiring & you are sure that there are no wiring faults, start looking at the solenoid valves. If you disconnect them, you can jumper power & ground to them to verify operation with the engine running. Power & ground supplied should turn on the vacuum flow, remove either one and the vacuum should stop flowing.

Typical resistance of the solenoid valves is in the range of 20-70 Ohms.

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

If you have a catalytic converter H pipe, you need to fix these codes. If you don't, then don't worry about them
 
My car doesn’t have a smog pump. Does that matter? It has been deleted long ago.
If you don't have catalytic converter exhaust, it won't make any difference.

If you do have the original 4 catalytic converter exhaust H pipe, you need the smog pump. The catalytic converters on the OEM factory exhaust were designed to work with the smog pump and the extra air it pumps into the exhaust system..



Thermactor Air System
Some review of how it works...

Revised 26-Jun-2105 to clarify operation of TAB & TAD solenoids

The Thermactor air pump (smog pump) supplies air to the heads or catalytic converters. This air helps break down the excess HC (hydrocarbons) and CO (carbon monoxide). The air supplied to the catalytic converters helps create the catalytic reaction that changes the HC & CO into CO2 and water vapor. Catalytic converters on 5.0 Mustangs are designed to use the extra air provided by the smog pump. Without the extra air, the catalytic converters will clog and fail.

The Thermactor air pump draws air from an inlet filter in the front of the pump. The smog pump puts air into the heads when the engine is cold and then into the catalytic converters when it is warm. The air provided by the air pump serves to help consume any unburned hydrocarbons by supplying extra oxygen to the catalytic process. With a warm engine, the computer operates on closed loop mode, taking input from all the sensors.

The Thermactor control valves serve to direct the flow. The first valve, TAB (Thermactor Air Bypass) or AM1 valve) either dumps air to the atmosphere or passes it on to the second valve. The computer tells the Thermactor Air System to open the Bypass valve at WOT (wide open throttle) minimizing engine drag. This dumps the pump's output to the atmosphere, and reduces the parasitic drag caused by the smog pump to about 2-4 HP at WOT. The Bypass valve also opens during deceleration to reduce or prevent backfires.

The second valve, TAD (Thermactor Air Diverter valve or AM2 valve) directs it to the heads or the catalytic converters. Check valves located after the TAD solenoid prevent hot exhaust gases from damaging the Diverter control valve or air pump in case of a backfire.

Code 44 RH side air not functioning.
Code 94 LH side air not functioning.

How the O2 sensors affect the operation of the Thermactor Air System.
The computer uses the change in the O2 sensor readings to detect operation of the Thermactor control valves. When the dump valve opens, it reduces the O2 readings in the exhaust system. Then it closes the dump valve and the O2 readings increase. By toggling the dump valve (TAB), the computer tests for the 44/94 codes.

Failure mode is usually due to a clogged air crossover tube, where one or both sides of the tube clog with carbon. The air crossover tube mounts on the back of the cylinder heads and supplies air to each of the Thermactor air passages cast into the cylinder heads. When the heads do not get the proper air delivery, they set codes 44 & 94, depending on which passage is clogged. It is possible to get both 44 & 94, which would suggest that the air pump or control valves are not working correctly, or the crossover tube is full of carbon or missing.


thermactor-air-system-65-gif.gif



Computer operation & control for the Thermactor Air System.
Automobile computers use current sink technology. They do not source power to any relay, solenoid or actuator like the IAC, fuel pump relay, or fuel injectors. Instead the computer provides a ground path for the positive battery voltage to get back to the battery negative terminal. That flow of power from positive to negative is what provides the energy to make the IAC, fuel pump relay, or fuel injectors work. No ground provided by the computer, then the actuators and relays don't operate.

One side of the any relay/actuator/solenoid in the engine compartment will be connected to a red wire that has 12-14 volts anytime the ignition switch is in the run position. The other side will have 12-14 volts when the relay/actuator/solenoid isn't turned on. Once the computer turns on the clamp side, the voltage on the computer side of the wire will drop down to 1 volt or less.

In order to test the TAD/TAB solenoids, you need to ground the white/red wire on the TAB solenoid or the light green/black wire on the TAD solenoid. The TAB and TAD solenoid are located on the passenger side shock strut tower. Uneducated owners sometimes remove them to get more HP. This does not work, it just causes 81 & 82 codes.

For 94-95 cars: the colors are different. The White/Red wire (TAB control) is White/Orange (Pin 31 on the PCM). The Green/Black wire (TAD control) should be Brown (pin 34 at the PCM). Thanks to HISSIN50 for this tip.

Testing the system:

To test the computer, you can use a test light across the TAB or TAD wiring connectors and dump the codes. When you dump the codes, the computer does a self test that toggles every relay/actuator/solenoid on and off. When this happens, the test light will flicker.

Disconnect the big hose from smog pump: with the engine running you should feel air output. Reconnect the smog pump hose & apply vacuum to the first vacuum controlled valve: Its purpose is to either dump the pump's output to the atmosphere or pass it to the next valve.

The next vacuum controlled valve directs the air to either the cylinder heads when the engine is cold or to the catalytic converter when the engine is warm. Disconnect the big hoses from the back side of the vacuum controlled valve and start the engine. Apply vacuum to the valve and see if the airflow changes from one hose to the next.

The two electrical controlled vacuum valves mounted on the rear of the passenger side wheel well turn the vacuum on & off under computer control. Check to see that both valves have +12 volts on the red wire. Then ground the white/red wire and the first solenoid should open and pass vacuum. Do the same thing to the light green/black wire on the second solenoid and it should open and pass vacuum.

Remember that the computer does not source power for any actuator or relay, but provides the ground necessary to complete the circuit. That means one side of the circuit will always be hot, and the other side will go to ground or below 1 volt as the computer switches on that circuit.

The computer provides the ground to complete the circuit to power the solenoid valve that turns the
vacuum on or off. The computer is located under the passenger side kick panel. Remove the kick panel & the cover over the computer wiring connector pins. Check Pin 38 Solenoid valve #1 that provides vacuum to the first Thermactor control valve for a switch from 12-14 volts to 1 volt or less. Do the same with pin 32 solenoid valve #2 that provides vacuum to the second Thermactor control valve. Starting the engine with the computer jumpered to self test mode will cause all the actuators to toggle on and off. If after doing this and you see no switching of the voltage on and off, you can start testing the wiring for shorts to ground and broken wiring. An Ohm check to ground with the computer connector disconnected & the solenoid valves disconnected should show open circuit between the pin 32 and ground and again on pin 38 and ground. In like manner, there should be less than 1 ohm between pin 32 and solenoid valve #2 and pin 38 & Solenoid valve #1.

If after checking the resistance of the wiring & you are sure that there are no wiring faults, start looking at the solenoid valves. If you disconnect them, you can jumper power & ground to them to verify operation. Power & ground supplied should turn on the vacuum flow, remove either one and the vacuum should stop flowing.

Typical resistance of the solenoid valves is in the range of 20-70 Ohms.

Theory of operation:
Catalytic converters consist of two different types of catalysts: Reduction and Oxidation.
The Reduction catalyst is the first converter in a 5.0 Mustang, and the Oxidation converter is the second converter. The Oxidation converter uses the extra air from the smog pump to burn the excess HC. Aftermarket converters that use the smog pump often combine both types of catalysts in one housing. Since all catalytic reactions depend on heat to happen, catalytic converters do not work as efficiently with long tube headers. The extra length of the long tubes reduces the heat available to operate the O2 sensors and the catalytic converters. That will cause emissions problems, and reduce the chances of passing an actual smog test.


Now for the Chemistry...
"The reduction catalyst is the first stage of the catalytic converter. It uses platinum and rhodium to help reduce the NOx emissions. When an NO or NO2 molecule contacts the catalyst, the catalyst rips the nitrogen atom out of the molecule and holds on to it, freeing the oxygen in the form of O2. The nitrogen atoms bond with other nitrogen atoms that are also stuck to the catalyst, forming N2. For example:

2NO => N2 + O2 or 2NO2 => N2 + 2O2

The oxidation catalyst is the second stage of the catalytic converter. It reduces the unburned hydrocarbons and carbon monoxide by burning (oxidizing) them over a platinum and palladium catalyst. This catalyst aids the reaction of the CO and hydrocarbons with the remaining oxygen in the exhaust gas. For example:

2CO + O2 => 2CO2

There are two main types of structures used in catalytic converters -- honeycomb and ceramic beads. Most cars today use a honeycomb structure." Quote courtesy of How Stuff Works (HowStuffWorks "Catalysts")

What happens when there is no extra air from the smog pump...
As engines age, the quality of tune decreases and wear causes them to burn oil. We have all seem cars that go down the road puffing blue or black smoke from the tailpipe. Oil consumption and poor tune increase the amount of HC the oxidation catalyst has to deal with. The excess HC that the converters cannot oxidize due to lack of extra air becomes a crusty coating inside the honeycomb structure. This effectively reduces the size of the honeycomb passageways and builds up thicker over time and mileage. Continuous usage under such conditions will cause the converter to fail and clog. The extra air provided by the Thermactor Air System (smog pump) is essential for the oxidation process. It oxidizes the added HC from oil consumption and poor tune and keeps the HC levels within acceptable limits.

Newer catalytic converters do not use the Thermactor Air System (smog pump) because they are designed to work with an improved computer system that runs leaner and cleaner
Newer catalytic converters do not use the Thermactor Air System (smog pump) because they are designed to work with an improved computer system that runs leaner and cleaner
They add an extra set of O2 sensors after the catalytic converters to monitor the oxygen and HC levels. Using this additional information, the improved computer system monitors the health and efficiency of the catalytic converters. If the computer cannot compensate for the added load of emissions due to wear and poor tune, the catalytic converters will eventually fail and clog. The periodic checks (smog inspections) are supposed to help owners keep track of problems and get them repaired. Use them on an 86-95 Mustang and you will slowly kill them with the pollutants that they are not designed to deal with.
 
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I just checked and adjusted timing. someone previously made a white line i between the 14-16 BTDC mark. Thats where the car was set at. I also noticed how wobbly my harmonic balancer was. Definitely needs to be replaced. I pulled the spout and it looked to idle around 8-10. I then adjusted the idle alittle bit so that my idle with the spout would be around 10-12. I took it for a test drive and definitely noticed a difference. It sounded much better. The idle surge was still there on start up but it kinda sounded like the pinging was gone. however when driving, I noticed a burning smell and quickly pulled over to find that smell coming from the tailpipe. I then changed the timing more closer to the original setting between 12-14. Any thoughts? thanks.
 
I’ve done most of those things. Forgive me, im literally a shade tree mechanic. (don’t even have a driveway). I reset the computer, cleaned the IAC, the EGR, Tested the TPS, And the IAC, etc. my car is speed density so theres some stuff I can’t test. I’ve been getting through it. I pulled my IAC plug while it was idling and it idles slower but sounds the same. I then pulled the spout and same thing, idles lower but sounds the same pretty much. I’m a bit stuck besides taking her to a shop.
 
@Alden12

If the harmonic balancer wobbles it needs to be replaced.

The balancer is a 2 piece unit. The outer hub has the timing marks on it. The inner hub is bonded to the outer hub by a rubber ring. Sometimes the rubber ring bonding the two hubs together goes bad and the outer ring with timing marks move. Then the engine is out of balance and the timing marks are way off when this happens.

That is the harmonic balancer. Do not run the engine, because it may cause damage to the engine internal parts because the engine now has a serious out of balance condition.

The local auto parts store should have the harmonic balancer and the harmonic balancer puller.

You will need to remove the serpentine belt, the fan blade assembly and quite possibly the radiator. The extra clearance gained by removing the radiator makes this a much easier job. The gotcha is that you probably will not be able to remove the radiator unless you remove the fan shroud first. There are just 2 bolts in the top of the fan shroud, but there are some tabs that are on the bottom of the fan shroud. These tabs sit in slotted holes or clips in the lower part of the radiator.

Using a 19MM" socket and long breaker bar, release the tension of the serpentine belt and remove it. Then remove the 2 bolts that hold the fan shroud on place. Once the fan shroud is loose, then slide a large piece of cardboard between the radiator and the fan blades. This helps protect the radiator. If you seriously ding the radiator, you may end up with a leak that requires you to remove the radiator and get it repaired. Next remove the 4 bolts from the fan blade clutch. Then you can lit the fan blades, fan clutch assembly and fan shroud out together. Again, be careful not to ding the radiator.

If you have a 5 speed, put the transmission in 5th gear. If you have an auto trans, someone else will have to suggest something to keep the engine from turning. Use a 15/16” socket, short extension bar and a LOONNGGG breaker bar or ratchet to loosen the harmonic balancer mounting bolt. Remove the bolt and washer, take the washer off the bolt and screw the bolt back into the crankshaft 4-6 turns. Then mount the balancer puller on the harmonic balancer and crank away until the balancer hits the bolt. If you are lucky you may get a balancer puller that has a special round block that fits in the balancer bolt hole and seats up against the crankshaft. This saves using the bolt and having to remove the balancer puller midway in the job to get the bolt out of the way. Be sure to never tighten up the balancer puller main bolt unless you have something in place to prevent it for damaging the threads in the crankshaft. That is the purpose of either putting the balancer bolt back in the crankshaft or using the round thread protector block.


See
View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ylyq6Iz5qYk
for some ideas it isn’t for a Mustang, but it will be of some use.

Now that you have it out, smear some Never Seez all the way around on the crankshaft. Then put a dab on the balancer bolt threads and underside of the bolt head. Line the keyway on the crankshaft up with the slot in the balancer hub and press it on. Use the balancer mount bolt to get it seated in place, torque to 70-90 ft./lbs. for final tightening. Put the rest of parts back in place; watch out that you get the fan shroud tabs stuck back in their mount slots on the bottom of the radiator. Take a 5/16" fine thread bolt with the head cut off and thread it into the water pump flange. That will help you line up the fan clutch with the bolts holes in the water pump flange. Then put the fan assembly mount bolts in and take out the 5//16" headless bolt you used as an alignment aid. Make sure that the fan assembly is bolted down tight. Then remove the cardboard from between the fan shroud and radiator and tighten the 2 bolts that hold it in place.