Well, spoke too soon. On 2nd start she runs!!! But just bought a timing light, so will be doing that later today:
Engine Engine rebuild suggestions
- Thread starter JulianR
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- 302 rebuild 5.0 rebuild
That is awesome man, congrats!!!
You may want to put a shield on the filter element. This is mostly due to fan wash and upsetting the MAF readings. IMO the best place is to move the filter inside the inner fender but you may be able to install a shield and be just fine. Something like this:
You may want to put a shield on the filter element. This is mostly due to fan wash and upsetting the MAF readings. IMO the best place is to move the filter inside the inner fender but you may be able to install a shield and be just fine. Something like this:
One new question. Drove it out of the garage and the clutch pedal engages high. I know I should do the quadrant, but until that-- any way to adjust the pedal for quicker engagement?
And one more question. I replaced the rear brakes and drums before covid, then never got to drive it after to test it out. I replaced the rear drum cylinders and bleed the system (once again noob there too). Anyway, to test that brakes work, is this a case where they work or they don't, or can it seem like they work, then bam, they're gone?
I want to take it for a test drive down my block, but want to be safe too
And one more question. I replaced the rear brakes and drums before covid, then never got to drive it after to test it out. I replaced the rear drum cylinders and bleed the system (once again noob there too). Anyway, to test that brakes work, is this a case where they work or they don't, or can it seem like they work, then bam, they're gone?
I want to take it for a test drive down my block, but want to be safe too Lol, I'm full of questions today. One more for ya.
I have a 3 core new aluminum radiator filled with water, with dual electric fans. I had the cap off a few times during previous runs, added water-- don't seem to need any more water. This time the cap was on.
Car was idling in the driveway, no hood, about 90F outside and direct sunlight. However, the temp gauge in the car cluster was at 3rd bar from the top-- like 240F but still in "normal" range? The fans were working on the radiator. 12" fan blades x 2. (I have the blades set to blow air away from the radiator not at it-- is that backwards?
Anyway, if I turn the heat on in the cab, the temp drops like 60 degrees quickly. Is my fan running the wrong way? Is it because it's in direct sunlight? Is it due to water instead of antifreeze?
Thanks again!
I have a 3 core new aluminum radiator filled with water, with dual electric fans. I had the cap off a few times during previous runs, added water-- don't seem to need any more water. This time the cap was on.
Car was idling in the driveway, no hood, about 90F outside and direct sunlight. However, the temp gauge in the car cluster was at 3rd bar from the top-- like 240F but still in "normal" range? The fans were working on the radiator. 12" fan blades x 2. (I have the blades set to blow air away from the radiator not at it-- is that backwards?
Anyway, if I turn the heat on in the cab, the temp drops like 60 degrees quickly. Is my fan running the wrong way? Is it because it's in direct sunlight? Is it due to water instead of antifreeze?
Thanks again!
It's an electric fan. Direction can be changed how they turn. CW or CCW. Doing some googling, mine are drawing air in to the engine bay which should be correct
Right... The fans should always be moving air in the same direction as the path of travel of the car, does.
If the fans are inside the dog house then they should draw air from the outside through radiator.
Water is not a stable coolant, are you using a manual temp gauge or just looking at the factory gauge?
Water is not a stable coolant, are you using a manual temp gauge or just looking at the factory gauge?
Here's my setup. I have a new aluminum 3 core radiator with fans. The temp sensor for the fans is screwed in to the thermostat housing. The fans do kick on. If I put my hand at the fans, the warm air is blown towards the engine when the fans are spinning.
The gage I'm going off of is on the cluster. I shut it down before it got to red- was still in the NORMAL range which is huge.
I do have a IR thermometer. Pointing it at the heads at that moment, I was somewhere around 192F (like the thermostat rating).
When the engine is cold, I can feel the upper hose-- I can squeeze it. When the engine is hot, the upper hose is firm and hot. Pointing the IR temp gage at upper and lower hoses, I do see a difference in temp (don't recall exact temps)
I am running distilled water.
You need to run something besides [just] water. Water boils too easy and can cause its own issues.
To answer my own questionOne new question. Drove it out of the garage and the clutch pedal engages high. I know I should do the quadrant, but until that-- any way to adjust the pedal for quicker engagement?
And one more question. I replaced the rear brakes and drums before covid, then never got to drive it after to test it out. I replaced the rear drum cylinders and bleed the system (once again noob there too). Anyway, to test that brakes work, is this a case where they work or they don't, or can it seem like they work, then bam, they're gone?
I saw a video online regarding the clutch pedal engagement. Since I had previously removed the cable from the fork to remove the transmission, all I needed to do now was pull all the way up on the clutch pedal until it clicked. Once it clicked, the clutch engagement was back to normal!!!Well I'm about 90% relieved. I went to Harbor Freight and spent $35 on a no-spill funnel for burping the cooling system. Filled up the cooling system with more water using the funnel and was able to get air out and in fact, more water in. The car idled in the driveway for like an hour and the temp gage didn't move past middle. Also, the coolant didn't even get hot enough for the thermostat to open. It was evening, but 80F.
My real overflow tank should be here today or tomorrow (not the jerryrigged old one one I'm using now). Then I'll be able to take a drive and see what it does.
So, next on my list is setting ideal timing. Haven't driven it yet, but currently I'm at 12-14* with timing light at idle. Honestly, I can't really hear (yet) a difference in more/less timing advance. I thought I would, but I don't. How do I decided on what timing works best? Advice?
Also, I ended up turning in the base idle screw. Because I have the stage 1 cam, it wasn't running well at 600 idle or whatever it was. I currently have it around 800 RPM. Also, before, if I unplugged the IAC, the engine died, so another reason to raise idle. Finally, after raising idle, I re-adjusted the TPS, and did the base idle reset, so should be good there. Maybe once I figure out the timing better, I'll back off the idle a bit.
Also, I ended up turning in the base idle screw. Because I have the stage 1 cam, it wasn't running well at 600 idle or whatever it was. I currently have it around 800 RPM. Also, before, if I unplugged the IAC, the engine died, so another reason to raise idle. Finally, after raising idle, I re-adjusted the TPS, and did the base idle reset, so should be good there. Maybe once I figure out the timing better, I'll back off the idle a bit.
I run that on mine and it was good. 12*-14* should be all you need for the street.
JMO
JMO
Hi everyone!
I'm not sure if this completes this thread or there's problems coming up that I'm not yet aware of with this build. Nonetheless, I wanted to say THANK YOU! to all that held my hand through this year long project. Your answers were quick, free, and most importantly, always right on the mark. Without you, I don't think this would have been possible.
Thank you!
Julian
I'm not sure if this completes this thread or there's problems coming up that I'm not yet aware of with this build. Nonetheless, I wanted to say THANK YOU! to all that held my hand through this year long project. Your answers were quick, free, and most importantly, always right on the mark. Without you, I don't think this would have been possible.
Thank you!
Julian
