Engine Engine rebuild suggestions

Hot Stang · Feb 27, 2024

The reason I upgraded my heads was because the '85 E5 heads had the crossover. Well as you know they don't work for performance. So I did searches to see where I wanted to go and what I could find in my area.

Ford Cylinder Heads and Valvetrain Interchange: Small-Block

Ford Cylinder Heads and Valvetrain Interchange: Small-Block- Covers Ford V8 Engine Families Including: Windsor, Cleveland, FE, M, 385-Series, and Boss

www.diyford.com

AeroCoupe · Feb 27, 2024

Had to read intentions in posts but the comment I quoted is what threw me. I’ve just seen too many combos using these springs make a lot of power.

JulianR · Feb 28, 2024

So, as I was working on my second head, one question came up. This time I was so confident that I knew how to get the keepers out, that I forgot I needed a socket over the retainer and just wacked the valve with the hammer a couple of times. All is fine, but I used a framing hammer and it left small indents in the corner of the valve stem where the rocker rides from the pattern on the hammer. I think it'd be ok, but what do you guys think-- should I buy a new valve or can I keep the old one?

2nd question. For some reason, I always thought, without thinking much about it, that the bigger valve is the exhaust and the smaller one is intake. That is NOT the case. However, that, then, means that my valve stem steals, on the completed head, are reversed. Should I go through the pain of changing them and risking they don't seal as well from being removed, or are they ok as is. I think it should be fine leaving them. Thoughts?

General karthief · Feb 28, 2024

Need a pic of the top of the valve in question.
I don't know about the seals but if there are exhaust seals and intake seals I would change them.
JMO and not based on any real automotive training .

AeroCoupe · Feb 28, 2024

Overall opinion is it doesn’t matter. As long as the valve stems are the same diameter you should be good to go.

JulianR · Feb 28, 2024

JulianR · Feb 28, 2024

UPDATE: I called Fel-Pro. The Blue valve cover seals are for Intake, Black are for exhaust. Black ones are made to withstand higher heat as the exhaust valves heat up more. Looks like I'll end up redoing that first head to be safe.

limp · Feb 28, 2024

JulianR said:
UPDATE: I called Fel-Pro. The Blue valve cover seals are for Intake, Black are for exhaust. Black ones are made to withstand higher heat as the exhaust valves heat up more. Looks like I'll end up redoing that first head to be safe.

Just look at this as all of the experience you will be getting doing these....
I seem to learn more from my mistakes than being able to read the installation manual...
chalk it up to that.....

Hot Stang · Feb 28, 2024

JulianR said:
So, as I was working on my second head, one question came up. This time I was so confident that I knew how to get the keepers out, that I forgot I needed a socket over the retainer and just wacked the valve with the hammer a couple of times. All is fine, but I used a framing hammer and it left small indents in the corner of the valve stem where the rocker rides from the pattern on the hammer. I think it'd be ok, but what do you guys think-- should I buy a new valve or can I keep the old one?

2nd question. For some reason, I always thought, without thinking much about it, that the bigger valve is the exhaust and the smaller one is intake. That is NOT the case. However, that, then, means that my valve stem steals, on the completed head, are reversed. Should I go through the pain of changing them and risking they don't seal as well from being removed, or are they ok as is. I think it should be fine leaving them. Thoughts?

I'm going to suggest taking it to a machine shop and let them do what you need. Right now it's not going to cost much and you can throw them on. If you don't have it right then I'm guessing you might be tearing it down again. I always say better safe then sorry. Save money down the road on head gaskets and stuff also.

Hot Stang · Feb 28, 2024

JulianR said:
So, as I was working on my second head, one question came up. This time I was so confident that I knew how to get the keepers out, that I forgot I needed a socket over the retainer and just wacked the valve with the hammer a couple of times. All is fine, but I used a framing hammer and it left small indents in the corner of the valve stem where the rocker rides from the pattern on the hammer. I think it'd be ok, but what do you guys think-- should I buy a new valve or can I keep the old one?

2nd question. For some reason, I always thought, without thinking much about it, that the bigger valve is the exhaust and the smaller one is intake. That is NOT the case. However, that, then, means that my valve stem steals, on the completed head, are reversed. Should I go through the pain of changing them and risking they don't seal as well from being removed, or are they ok as is. I think it should be fine leaving them. Thoughts?

When I bought my P heads they were already gone through and shaved. I spent maybe $100 for them to do cam matching springs which they ordered. So springs and labor was $100.
I have turned close to 8,000 rpm on my build. The P heads are known for floating valves. Match your cam and you just helped on the tune of your car.

manicmechanic007 · Feb 29, 2024

Buy a used valve spring compressor or even a new cheap China one
Even the old twist style works on most older V8s
A C clamp works on them all if the heads are off
That will save you from buying valves you might possibly ruin

JulianR · Feb 29, 2024

JulianR said:

well, to be safe, I ordered a new replacement valve. Just one: Melling V1135

JulianR · Feb 29, 2024

Question on heads-- is there a right head and a left head, or are they interchangeable? And if they're not, how do you tell where each goes?

limp · Feb 29, 2024

JulianR said:
Question on heads-- is there a right head and a left head, or are they interchangeable? And if they're not, how do you tell where each goes?

Should be interchangeable.... Its the head gaskets you need to watch out for...

keel · Feb 29, 2024

JulianR said:
Question on heads-- is there a right head and a left head, or are they interchangeable? And if they're not, how do you tell where each goes?

I know E7s and 3-bar GT40 heads need to have the secondary air injection ports facing the rear of the engine. This means they are side specific if you're planning to keep factory style emissions equipment, plus it's going to make mounting accessories a lot easier when the heads are on the correct way.

Looks like you're using P heads which I am fairly certain do not have air injection ports (and are therefore interchangeable between sides), but might be worth checking.

limp · Feb 29, 2024

keel said:
I know E7s and 3-bar GT40 heads need to have the secondary air injection ports facing the rear of the engine. This means they are side specific if you're planning to keep factory style emissions equipment, plus it's going to make mounting accessories a lot easier when the heads are on the correct way.

Good point here that I forgot about......

General karthief · Feb 29, 2024

The Ps I have do not have the port.

limp · Mar 1, 2024

General karthief said:
The Ps I have do not have the port.

manicmechanic007 · Mar 1, 2024

Nice attention to detail Limp
How do you like that new Holley
I like those intake studs

General karthief · Mar 1, 2024

Really like that heater hose connection

Engine Engine rebuild suggestions

Member

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

Active Member

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes

Active Member

Active Member

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done

Member

Member

Active Member

Active Member

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done

Active Member

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair

Similar threads

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency