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Engine Engine rebuild suggestions

  • Thread starter Thread starter JulianR
  • Start date Start date Mar 3, 2023
  • Tags Tags
    302 rebuild 5.0 rebuild
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JulianR

Active Member
Jun 13, 2016
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Aug 17, 2024
#421
  • Aug 17, 2024
  • #421
Well, spoke too soon. On 2nd start she runs!!! But just bought a timing light, so will be doing that later today:

 
Reactions: limp, AeroCoupe and Noobz347

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
Founding Member
Oct 28, 2001
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Claremore, OK
Aug 17, 2024
#422
  • Aug 17, 2024
  • #422
That is awesome man, congrats!!!

You may want to put a shield on the filter element. This is mostly due to fan wash and upsetting the MAF readings. IMO the best place is to move the filter inside the inner fender but you may be able to install a shield and be just fine. Something like this:

 
Reactions: JulianR

JulianR

Active Member
Jun 13, 2016
179
43
38
Aug 18, 2024
#423
  • Aug 18, 2024
  • #423
One new question. Drove it out of the garage and the clutch pedal engages high. I know I should do the quadrant, but until that-- any way to adjust the pedal for quicker engagement?

And one more question. I replaced the rear brakes and drums before covid, then never got to drive it after to test it out. I replaced the rear drum cylinders and bleed the system (once again noob there too). Anyway, to test that brakes work, is this a case where they work or they don't, or can it seem like they work, then bam, they're gone? I want to take it for a test drive down my block, but want to be safe too
 

JulianR

Active Member
Jun 13, 2016
179
43
38
Aug 18, 2024
#424
  • Aug 18, 2024
  • #424
Lol, I'm full of questions today. One more for ya.

I have a 3 core new aluminum radiator filled with water, with dual electric fans. I had the cap off a few times during previous runs, added water-- don't seem to need any more water. This time the cap was on.

Car was idling in the driveway, no hood, about 90F outside and direct sunlight. However, the temp gauge in the car cluster was at 3rd bar from the top-- like 240F but still in "normal" range? The fans were working on the radiator. 12" fan blades x 2. (I have the blades set to blow air away from the radiator not at it-- is that backwards?

Anyway, if I turn the heat on in the cab, the temp drops like 60 degrees quickly. Is my fan running the wrong way? Is it because it's in direct sunlight? Is it due to water instead of antifreeze?

Thanks again!
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
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Aug 18, 2024
#425
  • Aug 18, 2024
  • #425
JulianR said:
(I have the blades set to blow air away from the radiator not at it-- is that backwards?
Click to expand...


I have no idea what this means. Ummm... What?
 

JulianR

Active Member
Jun 13, 2016
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Aug 18, 2024
#426
  • Aug 18, 2024
  • #426
Noobz347 said:
I have no idea what this means. Ummm... What?
Click to expand...
It's an electric fan. Direction can be changed how they turn. CW or CCW. Doing some googling, mine are drawing air in to the engine bay which should be correct
 

Noobz347

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#427
  • Aug 18, 2024
  • #427
JulianR said:
It's an electric fan. Direction can be changed how they turn. CW or CCW. Doing some googling, mine are drawing air in to the engine bay which should be correct
Click to expand...
Right... The fans should always be moving air in the same direction as the path of travel of the car, does.
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2016
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polk county florida
Aug 18, 2024
#428
  • Aug 18, 2024
  • #428
If the fans are inside the dog house then they should draw air from the outside through radiator.
Water is not a stable coolant, are you using a manual temp gauge or just looking at the factory gauge?
 

JulianR

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Jun 13, 2016
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Aug 19, 2024
#429
  • Aug 19, 2024
  • #429
General karthief said:
If the fans are inside the dog house then they should draw air from the outside through radiator.
Water is not a stable coolant, are you using a manual temp gauge or just looking at the factory gauge?
Click to expand...
Here's my setup. I have a new aluminum 3 core radiator with fans. The temp sensor for the fans is screwed in to the thermostat housing. The fans do kick on. If I put my hand at the fans, the warm air is blown towards the engine when the fans are spinning.

The gage I'm going off of is on the cluster. I shut it down before it got to red- was still in the NORMAL range which is huge.

I do have a IR thermometer. Pointing it at the heads at that moment, I was somewhere around 192F (like the thermostat rating).

When the engine is cold, I can feel the upper hose-- I can squeeze it. When the engine is hot, the upper hose is firm and hot. Pointing the IR temp gage at upper and lower hoses, I do see a difference in temp (don't recall exact temps)

I am running distilled water.
 

Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
Admin Dude
Jan 4, 1985
42,964
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Aug 19, 2024
#430
  • Aug 19, 2024
  • #430
JulianR said:
I am running distilled water.
Click to expand...

You need to run something besides [just] water. Water boils too easy and can cause its own issues.
 
Reactions: 89ripper

JulianR

Active Member
Jun 13, 2016
179
43
38
Aug 20, 2024
#431
  • Aug 20, 2024
  • #431
JulianR said:
One new question. Drove it out of the garage and the clutch pedal engages high. I know I should do the quadrant, but until that-- any way to adjust the pedal for quicker engagement?

And one more question. I replaced the rear brakes and drums before covid, then never got to drive it after to test it out. I replaced the rear drum cylinders and bleed the system (once again noob there too). Anyway, to test that brakes work, is this a case where they work or they don't, or can it seem like they work, then bam, they're gone? I want to take it for a test drive down my block, but want to be safe too
Click to expand...
To answer my own question I saw a video online regarding the clutch pedal engagement. Since I had previously removed the cable from the fork to remove the transmission, all I needed to do now was pull all the way up on the clutch pedal until it clicked. Once it clicked, the clutch engagement was back to normal!!!
 
Reactions: limp

JulianR

Active Member
Jun 13, 2016
179
43
38
Aug 20, 2024
#432
  • Aug 20, 2024
  • #432
JulianR said:
Lol, I'm full of questions today. One more for ya.

I have a 3 core new aluminum radiator filled with water, with dual electric fans. I had the cap off a few times during previous runs, added water-- don't seem to need any more water. This time the cap was on.

Car was idling in the driveway, no hood, about 90F outside and direct sunlight. However, the temp gauge in the car cluster was at 3rd bar from the top-- like 240F but still in "normal" range? The fans were working on the radiator. 12" fan blades x 2. (I have the blades set to blow air away from the radiator not at it-- is that backwards?

Anyway, if I turn the heat on in the cab, the temp drops like 60 degrees quickly. Is my fan running the wrong way? Is it because it's in direct sunlight? Is it due to water instead of antifreeze?

Thanks again!
Click to expand...
Well I'm about 90% relieved. I went to Harbor Freight and spent $35 on a no-spill funnel for burping the cooling system. Filled up the cooling system with more water using the funnel and was able to get air out and in fact, more water in. The car idled in the driveway for like an hour and the temp gage didn't move past middle. Also, the coolant didn't even get hot enough for the thermostat to open. It was evening, but 80F.

My real overflow tank should be here today or tomorrow (not the jerryrigged old one one I'm using now). Then I'll be able to take a drive and see what it does.
 
Reactions: gkomo and limp

JulianR

Active Member
Jun 13, 2016
179
43
38
Aug 20, 2024
#433
  • Aug 20, 2024
  • #433
So, next on my list is setting ideal timing. Haven't driven it yet, but currently I'm at 12-14* with timing light at idle. Honestly, I can't really hear (yet) a difference in more/less timing advance. I thought I would, but I don't. How do I decided on what timing works best? Advice?

Also, I ended up turning in the base idle screw. Because I have the stage 1 cam, it wasn't running well at 600 idle or whatever it was. I currently have it around 800 RPM. Also, before, if I unplugged the IAC, the engine died, so another reason to raise idle. Finally, after raising idle, I re-adjusted the TPS, and did the base idle reset, so should be good there. Maybe once I figure out the timing better, I'll back off the idle a bit.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
5 Year Member
Aug 25, 2016
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Aug 20, 2024
#434
  • Aug 20, 2024
  • #434
I run that on mine and it was good. 12*-14* should be all you need for the street.
JMO
 
Reactions: JulianR and 89ripper

JulianR

Active Member
Jun 13, 2016
179
43
38
Aug 26, 2024
#435
  • Aug 26, 2024
  • #435
Hi everyone!

I'm not sure if this completes this thread or there's problems coming up that I'm not yet aware of with this build. Nonetheless, I wanted to say THANK YOU! to all that held my hand through this year long project. Your answers were quick, free, and most importantly, always right on the mark. Without you, I don't think this would have been possible.

Thank you!
Julian
 
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