Engine Swap for N/A Power

Best Engine For N/A Power @ 20+mpg

  • 4.6 3v

    Votes: 1 7.1%
  • 4.6 4v

    Votes: 10 71.4%
  • 5.4 3v

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • 5.4 4v

    Votes: 3 21.4%

  • Total voters
    14

Horse Power

New Member
Jun 6, 2006
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0
0
I'm trying to figure out the best combo to get between 300 and 350 rwhp in an all motor setup. Lets assume that I have access to the engines relativly cheap and can do the work. The only requirement is mileage close to a stock setup, 20+.
 
Any of the 4 you've listed will get you there. The 4.6L 4V will probably be the easiest and cheapest way to do it. billfisher is working on a 5.4L 3V set up right now, but it doesn't sound as though the swap is something a beginner is going to want to try (none of them really are, actually). There's very little information in circulation out there right now with regards to it. The 4.6L 4V swap has at least been done several times and with a little searching can be duplicated pretty effectively.
 
Thats what I was leaning towards, if I can find one. This wouldn't be done anytime soon, but it's never to early to begin. Would a Mark VIII engine support that kind of power without having to get into cams and such? The reason I was considering 3v is because it would be a heck of alot cheaper when it comes time to rebuild. Don't know about the chances of finding a low mileage 4v to hold me off until I can build it.
 
Horse Power said:
Thats what I was leaning towards, if I can find one. This wouldn't be done anytime soon, but it's never to early to begin. Would a Mark VIII engine support that kind of power without having to get into cams and such? The reason I was considering 3v is because it would be a heck of alot cheaper when it comes time to rebuild. Don't know about the chances of finding a low mileage 4v to hold me off until I can build it.
I'm afraid none of them are going to get you comfortably into the 300-350rwhp range without swapping the cams. The Mark VIII engine is basically the same as the one used in the early Cobra's, with the exception of the Nodular Iron crankshaft and the Mark VIII specific intake and cams. Otherwise, pretty much everything else is the same. I'm not sure where you're getting the idea that that 3V is going to be cheaper when it comes time for rebuild. Parts for the 3V engines aren't any cheaper than the 4V ones and labor is going to be about the same and perhaps more since many companies will use its being a relatively "new" engine as an excuse to increase labor and/or parts costs. Besides, if you get one with decent mileage, you should need a rebuild for at least 150,000-200,000km. Perhaps more if you drive it with restraint most of the time.

Unless you're dead set against using a power adder, I'd really suggest leaning towards one to accomplish your goal. Low-300's won't be too difficult, or kill your budget, but getting into the 350rwhp range with any of these build ups isn't going to be easy, or cheap. Going with a blower or nitrous is still going to be your best bang for the buck at this levels, regardless of how you build the engine.
 
he is also correct on the power adder part. I stayed N/A for awhile and got close to the 300 rwhp mark (292) and I would have went ahead with my goal if I hadnt stumbled across a cant turn deal on a Vortech. A power adder is gonna be the easiest way and keep your car more streetable in the end.
 
I was thinking the 3v would be cheaper since it's sohc, but like you said, the parts will be new. My dad and I can do the labor.
Is there a significant difference between the cobra and mark cams? Would it be feasable to hit 300 with a bolt on mark engine? Oh, and would the mark handle a s/c if I decided on one in the future?
01Steeda, was that with a 2v?
Thanks for all your help.
 
there is no cheap MOD motor out there. 350 rwhp ~ 390 fwhp @15% loss.

if you find an easy n/a way to get there let me know.

300rw is another story.

still expensive.

a mark with bolt ons for 300whp still takes some doing.

cobra intake
headers
exhaust
pullies
tune
cobra cams
tons of dough
 
billfisher said:
there is no cheap MOD motor out there. 350 rwhp ~ 390 fwhp @15% loss.

if you find an easy n/a way to get there let me know.
Will do.:D
Ok lets get rid of numbers. If there was no labor cost, what would be the magic price for you to boot your 2v and drop in a stock 4v?
Even if/when I do go for the boost, it just seems I should start with the best platform I can.:shrug:
The sad thing is I haven't even picked up the car yet...
End of this week though.
 
hotmustang331 said:
01 cobra engine....fr500 cams...all the boltons= 350+RWHP. Problem solved...DDable...and a good 23+MPG. :D
That's pretty generous. I'd bet it would be closer to 315-325rwhp with that set up....unless by all of the bolt ons you consider a 50-shot of nitrous as one of them. :D

It's still going to be expensive, either way.
 
Gearbanger 101 said:
That's pretty generous. I'd bet it would be closer to 315-325rwhp with that set up....unless by all of the bolt ons you consider a 50-shot of nitrous as one of them. :D

It's still going to be expensive, either way.

It should go 350 easy...I know that same setup with P&P heads will churn out 420+RWHP(that may be a hair high...high 300s/400RWHP W/O the intake) in a 281 CI engine. Seen them go 459RWHP with a BB 4.6. (5.0) ...P&Pd stock heads, fr500 cams+ FR500 intake+ LTs/boltons.

Heck you can get 315-325RWHP from a full bolton 01 cobra. Alot of guys have hit 300RWHP with just an X pipe and a CAI. :D