Engine Tap. 4.6, 3v

GreeZdLighTNin · Sep 13, 2017

Hi everyone. I just bought on 05 GT with 114,000 on her and she has a slight but noticeable engine tap. I'm trying an oil/filter change, but i'm hoping its not going to be something very major. Any thoughts on what else to check?

I'm also hearing a rattle when I accel into 1st gear while letting off clutch. Iv searched the forum for the first issue but didn't find anything. The second I'm going to try some "fixes" but am hoping that it is just a loose cross mount.

Thanks.

Noobz347 · Sep 14, 2017

Timing chain tensioner
hydraulic lifter

@LaserSVT

LaserSVT · Sep 14, 2017

The tap could be lifter, chain or the VVT is stuck but that will usually give an MIL.

Your clutch chatter could be any one of several things without more info. Could be a puck style clutch, could be a glazed clutch and/or flywheel, cracked flywheel, throw-out bearing. Heck, could even be the pilot bearing.

Need more info.

SpartaPerformance · Sep 17, 2017

VVT's are usually the culprits on 3V engines

racerraj · Sep 18, 2017

Mine had a tick. It was the cam follower. I decided to keep driving it until the weekend, big mistake. The cam follower ate the cam, then ejected and knocked the valve retainer loose, which dropped the valve and bent it. So I had to have the head redone. I did the head replacement myself, but it still was expensive compared to parking it until I fixed it. So find the tick and fix it before driving if possible.

Robert Arco · Sep 26, 2017

Cam Phaser can tick also as well as the VCT Solenoid

Here is what the cam phaser could sound like (ignore that its a 5.4 3v..same difference)

View: https://youtu.be/-YFOxIZEWZM

GreeZdLighTNin · Sep 28, 2017

Sorry I took so long tyo reply. Im looking ni to those...the rattle was the lower two bolts to the bellhousing were missing and the dustplate made noise!!! WOW!!!
So about the tap again...which would be the best order to check/replace things? VVT, VCT sol, cam phasers?

Robert Arco · Sep 28, 2017

Always go with LEAST intensive first. Now the best way would be if it could be truly diagnosed. But barring that the simplest is the VCT solenoids. You don't have to remove the valve covers (like I did) because you can do the following:

Remove the electrical connector from the VCT
Pry up the rubber gasket around the solenoid (it just pops out)
Now, the screw that holds it in place is accessible and here is the GOOD and the BE careful. The screw is setup so it wont pop out of the fitting (the new ones come with a screw) BUT before you go poking in there 1) It takes a star drive bit - I forget the size but will get back to you) 2) TAPE THE BIT to your driver ..do not depend on it staying magnetically. You lose that in there and its "nighmare time".
Now when you replace check the old one. They get gunked an stop working. If yours is free and clear, probably not the problem. In fact, you DONT want to immediately change, you can always check first and put back if its good.

Cam phaser (if that turns out) is more intensive). No way really to tell if its bad without changing it ...

If you have to go that way, here is a short example of how to do it - but there are others detailed. IF you go that route at all, contact me. I can help you with HOW TO GET YOUR COVERS OFF WITHOUT GOING BONKERS

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pBdbpWMhfAY

GreeZdLighTNin · Sep 29, 2017

Robert Arco said:
Always go with LEAST intensive first. Now the best way would be if it could be truly diagnosed. But barring that the simplest is the VCT solenoids. You don't have to remove the valve covers (like I did) because you can do the following:

Remove the electrical connector from the VCT

Pry up the rubber gasket around the solenoid (it just pops out)

Now, the screw that holds it in place is accessible and here is the GOOD and the BE careful. The screw is setup so it wont pop out of the fitting (the new ones come with a screw) BUT before you go poking in there 1) It takes a star drive bit - I forget the size but will get back to you) 2) TAPE THE BIT to your driver ..do not depend on it staying magnetically. You lose that in there and its "nighmare time".

Now when you replace check the old one. They get gunked an stop working. If yours is free and clear, probably not the problem. In fact, you DONT want to immediately change, you can always check first and put back if its good.

Cam phaser (if that turns out) is more intensive). No way really to tell if its bad without changing it ...

If you have to go that way, here is a short example of how to do it - but there are others detailed. IF you go that route at all, contact me. I can help you with HOW TO GET YOUR COVERS OFF WITHOUT GOING BONKERS

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pBdbpWMhfAY

Thanks guys. Robert, I'll Def try the VCT first as soon as I get back from NC. Now iv also gotta find a coolant leak I can't track down. Awesome info you gave! I'll keep you updated.

Engine Tap. 4.6, 3v

GreeZdLighTNin

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Noobz347

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