Engine upgrades

Check out the dyno graphs on Edelbrock's website.

Roller rockers = 0 HP
I have a '64 289 .040 over
- 0-decked, 10.25:1 compression
- rpm performers, significant flow work
- rpm performer intake
- flowed and port matched to the heads.
- RPM performer CAM
- Crane rollers (1.6), hardened push rods, double true-roller timing chain
- JPS flat-top Alu-forged pistons
- 600 cfm edel carb (primaries 1 stg lean, secondaries 2 stg fat)
- headman long tubes, ceramic coated, 2.5" exhaust, h-pipe, magnaflows
- Pito-tube crank-case ventilation.
- MSD 6AL,
- bil. dist. all mechanical advance. (14 static, 33 @ 2800rpm)
- start/delay box
- 100HP giggle-gas shot
- All March pullies

Cooling this sucks! Or rather blows depending on your POV.

All the math,(cc'd heads, flow bench data, no giggle gas) puts the the flex plate HP around 425 @ 6000 RPM, I shift @ 6500 due to the rollers (when necessary). My C4 is buit (rev valve-body, full manual, non-decomprss first....about a 10-13% lossy situation). The rear gears are 3.80 auburn LS. The meat is 275/50R15 Nitto drag radials.

The real bonus is the weight. I remove all the stock insulation in the car, weight ~ 35lbs. All that cast iron under the hood ~ 100 lbs. Battery in the rear = favorable weigh transfer. Wilwood disk brakes ~ 30 lbs. TCP power R&P ~ 20lbs. hood a GT-350 Fiber glass hood ~ 30 lbs. Went from generator to alternator another 30 lbs. 100% new wiring, prperly done I'll bet saved 10 lbs in copper alone! Aluminum rims,etc., etc.

So not only the boost in HP but a reduction in weight by a conservative 250lbs is about a 10% reduction in weight. The weight to HP ratio is clear on any of the cheapo-calac-time calcualtors on the web....I'd need an additional 50HP to cover the weight gain. And of course I stop better, steer better, and have modern performance/cost/simplicity.

For me the best things I ever did was put $800 in the diff (LS gears) and go to the full manual tricked out C-4. And of course the ability to get the HP to the ground; Mier custom leafs, lowered ~ 1.5 inches, shelby A-arm mod, flared fenders to get the tires under the, sub frames, poly-graphite bushings...everywhere....let air out to ~20lbs. light up for 30 feet and the thing sticks like glue!

i think you will hae a little too much carb. You would probably make in the realm of 335-350 flywheel hp

a warmed over 289 or 302 will usually make more power with a 650dp than any other carb, regardless of how many formulas say you only need 500 cfm or whatever. I don't know why, but the dyno's don't lie.