When you take the blower belt off, you remove a lot of load on the front of the crank.....
When you take the blower belt off, you remove a lot of load on the front of the crank.....Well some new developments. Don't know if it has anything to do with the bucking and popping but....
I ran the car and got the knock when I got home, then removed the belt to help isolate the sound... except there was no longer a knock.
Put belt back on and the knock is back loud as ever, I went and got a piece of wood to use as a makeshift stethoscope. Sure enough I think the blower has begun to eat itself. Goes away with rpm but is loudest at the blower, then sheet metal intake I have on it likely amplified the sound.
While this sucks I at least have a starting point. Still does not explain the backfire though
Good point, I will have someone put a load on the engine with the belt off by leaving the parking brake on and trying to clutch out. Do you think that will be a sufficient load test?When you take the blower belt off, you remove a lot of load on the front of the crank.....
Well i appreciate the input either way, its better to have a direction to begin with than feel around in the dark on my own lol.
I am half decent at tuning and can make things work that others would otherwise not attempt, but when it comes down to it i need help with some of the troubleshooting when things dont go the way i hope they will.... I am at a loss where to begin most of the time which is why i ask the contingent and rely on the opinions within.
so even if it is a shot in the dark from where i am standing its a great idea!
Nothing i build has a tech support number that i can call. The backfire issue is driving me nuts, i cant pin it down it has done this ever since i put this thing together with the new ignition system. I just cant figure out what is going wrong..I have replaced the coil packs and wires checked the wiring harness and replaced the VR sensor... the only thing i can think of beyond what i have done is completely rerouting the plug wires so they dont run near the wiring harness [will need another set of wires so i can use just the long ones] AND OR pull the loom off the wiring harness and shield them with some kind of braided covering or even tinfoil wrapped around them would work i think. i dont see any induced noise on the sensor inputs but i cannot see what is going on in the wiring between the vr sensor and the EDIS8 module or from the module to the coil packs.
If you know any one that may have experience dealing with these things tag them plz i want to drive my car.
I did use 2wire twisted pair with a shield grounded at the edis8 module. I have already contacted them and we tried to troubleshoot but because the VR sensor does not connect directly to the MS there is no trigger log.You don't have your VR sensor shielded? I thought that was mandatory due to the plug wires giving interference. I would defiantly recommend shielding them just to mark that off the list of possible issues.
Have you emailed Matt Cramer at DIYAutoTune to see if he could help as well?
yes just like the m90 this is fully re buildable, spins freely by hand no grinding or clanking. it does have a questionable amount of miles on it, complete disassembly will hopefully make it apparent. still doing the comp and leak down test and going to check the rockers, i need to pin down the cause of the missfire.Sounds like a wobble to me. Give it throttle, centrifugal force forces the shaft to load the bearing, and it rides the side of the bearing ( noise disappears) allow the engine to idle, wobble returns, what ever is slopping around is making that clank.
Is the front drive on the blower removable? Can there possibly be a bearing in the drive of the huffer that has wallowed?
Here's the answer to the blow down compression tester problem...compression numbers by cylinder, I went ahead and tested the lowest 2 wet and it concludes the rings are toast. This was all done cold if it matters.
The low compression and bad plugs may be the cause of the backfire issue with a wasted spark setup.??
Either way I think my fun is over.
I don't have a leak down tester So I just put compressed air at top dead center I got a lot of air coming out of the valve covers even on the good cylinder
From that guy's post up there said:A few things to note if you are not sure you need to rebuild yours. If you hear any noise (mostly at idle) and it goes away with a bit of throttle, chances are your snout bearings are worn and/or bad coupler (the coupler is a little round bushing like piece that wears the holes where it sits and can become noisy).
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