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Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

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  • Start date Start date May 31, 2015
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a91what

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I just found out some wonderful news I've been fighting with trying to get a trigger wheel mounted on to my car After some heavy Internet searching I found that 96 F150 Harmonic balancer came equipped with a 4 point tone wheel. Obviously I can't use the four point wheel, however it is the same diameter as the explorer wheel. So I'm hoping I can somehow get the wheel off of the Explorer balancer that I have that's bad And if I can find one of these apparently rare F150 balancers press the Explorer wheel on to the good new balancer. And use a regular crank pulley and move on with the project. I can't drop anything off at the machine shop until I have the correct balance or I'm going to use on the car I don't want them holding my crank rods and pistons for 2 months while I try to figure out the balancer
 
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a91what

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Got the tone ring off the explorer balancer, some map gas and light pressure with a 3 jaw puller made easy work of it.
 

a91what

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Looks like the only place that carries these balancers for the f150 is damperdoctor looks like a rebuilt damper cost 145$ plus a core charge of 45$.......
200$ for a stock balancer
 

CarMichael Angelo

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I'm gonna stop following rules. If you spend 200.00 for a stock balancer, I'm booking a flight next week end to your town so that I can personally slap the piss out of you.
Why would you do that? And why this f 150 balancer?
Isn't anybody worried about a 20 year old balancer shifting/ coming apart at RPM? Or Is this just another one of those " My machinist says I don't need a stinkin S.F.I. rated balancer" expert opinions?
 
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a91what

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CarMichael Angelo said:
I'm gonna stop following rules. If you spend 200.00 for a stock balancer, I'm booking a flight next week end to your town so that I can personally slap the piss out of you.
Why would you do that? And why this f 150 balancer?
Isn't anybody worried about a 20 year old balancer shifting/ coming apart at RPM? Or Is this just another one of those " My machinist says I don't need a stinkin S.F.I. rated balancer" expert opinions?
Click to expand...
Lmfao!
Absolutely not, I am looking for a way to make this simple. If I had a lathe I would be done already, the f150 balancer has the boss on the back to press the explorer tone ring directly onto it also accepts the standard pulley for proper alignment.
I have an sfi rated balancer on the engine I'm replacing I plan on reusing it.
The issue with this one is it has a weight that gets bolted to the back of it so it gets in the way of adding a 36 wheel.

You know it's one of those fluid dampers.... I wonder if it would be ok to tack weld the tone ring to the outer shell of the damper with my tig torch..... It's not like it will wobble like a standard damper ring... what do you think Mike?


I may just do it and see, I doubt it will damage it at all.. If I tack every other tooth there is no way it can come off.
 

CarMichael Angelo

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a91what said:
Lmfao!
Absolutely not, I am looking for a way to make this simple. If I had a lathe I would be done already, the f150 balancer has the boss on the back to press the explorer tone ring directly onto it also accepts the standard pulley for proper alignment.
I have an sfi rated balancer on the engine I'm replacing I plan on reusing it.
The issue with this one is it has a weight that gets bolted to the back of it so it gets in the way of adding a 36 wheel.

You know it's one of those fluid dampers.... I wonder if it would be ok to tack weld the tone ring to the outer shell of the damper with my tig torch..... It's not like it will wobble like a standard damper ring... what do you think Mike?

I may just do it and see, I doubt it will damage it at all.. If I tack every other tooth there is no way it can come off.
Click to expand...
Call fluid damper and find out where the cavity is that carries the fluid. I’d rather see you drill and tap it before committing yourself with weld. Remember, the balancer is “ balanced”. adding blobs of weld may change that.
 

a91what

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CarMichael Angelo said:
Call fluid damper and find out where the cavity is that carries the fluid. I’d rather see you drill and tap it before committing yourself with weld. Remember, the balancer is “ balanced”. adding blobs of weld may change that.
Click to expand...
that is true however i am having the entire assembly balanced together. once i have the balancer on the workbench and lay the tone ring on it im sure that something may change. i will update again when i have that to show in a picture.
 

a91what

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Damn harmonic balancer... i had an extra 15mins this morning i figured i would pull the balancer off so i could make a judgement call on whether or not it could be modified easily for the tone ring.... well the pulley came off easily, the balancer is still on the car i guess it wants to fight...
 

General karthief

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did you forget to take the bolt out?
 

a91what

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lol no. i think the puller was in a bind, im gonna take the radiator out so i can get to it easily. It all has to come apart anyway to pull the engine.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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sure, that's what you tell your friends!
 

a91what

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Bahaha I claim victory over the harmonic balancer!





It helps if you make sure the washer comes off with the bolt...
 
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General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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a91what

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@CarMichael Angelo does this get the Mike approval?

it sits flat against the counter weight and the center hole barely fits over the step in the snout, I just got done measuring and I have about a 32nd of run out... hopefully the machine shop can turn the wheel round for me.
 

CarMichael Angelo

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a91what said:
@CarMichael Angelo does this get the Mike approval?

it sits flat against the counter weight and the center hole barely fits over the step in the snout, I just got done measuring and I have about a 32nd of run out... hopefully the machine shop can turn the wheel round for me.
Click to expand...
Good on you Jeeves. That looks like it’ll work, especially if you only have.032 runout. That’s about all I had. My machine guy was able to true mine up, he should be able to do yours too.9
 

a91what

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Got the wheel mounted, then removed it and hit it with paint it is drying as I type.
 
Last edited: Apr 7, 2018

jrichker

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I sure hope that you have sufficient clearance between the timing cover and the bolt heads...

Have you put some Loctite on the bolt threads? They are going to need it...
 

CarMichael Angelo

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jrichker said:
I sure hope that you have sufficient clearance between the timing cover and the bolt heads...

Have you put some Loctite on the bolt threads? They are going to need it...
Click to expand...
Me too. Or the oil pan lip.
I ended up cutting up my old harmonic balancer to make a spacer that sits against the crank gear, to compensate for the thickness of the trigger wheel that is attached to the back of my balancer. Then I built the rest of the accessory brackets to compensate for that.
Hopefully our computer whiz kid here has taken that into consideration.
 

a91what

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jrichker said:
I sure hope that you have sufficient clearance between the timing cover and the bolt heads...

Have you put some Loctite on the bolt threads? They are going to need it...
Click to expand...
No locktight yet, I still need to install this on my damaged engine and do the test fit then it will all be balanced as one unit.
 

a91what

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CarMichael Angelo said:
Me too. Or the oil pan lip.
I ended up cutting up my old harmonic balancer to make a spacer that sits against the crank gear, to compensate for the thickness of the trigger wheel that is attached to the back of my balancer. Then I built the rest of the accessory brackets to compensate for that.
Hopefully our computer whiz kid here has taken that into consideration.
Click to expand...
The trigger wheel will sit roughly 3/32 closer to the block than the explorer balancer had it, plus the bolt heads will put me very close to the cover and oil pan. Luckily I still have the option of using a large bit and doing some countersinking for the bolts. The plate steel i used is 1/4 thick so I should easily get an 1/8 countersink, more if I use a button style bolt.
 
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