Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

a91what · May 13, 2018

So after appeasing the powers that be I was able to get out to the shed and clean the block up. I did not want to make the same mistake I did a few years ago (did not clean well enough)... This time the engine got a good wash down with soap and water, then brakeclean, then all the cylinders got wiped down thoroughly with paper towels and penetrating oil. After all that washing and cleaning the penetrating oil kept removing debris, I cleaned until the towel showed no discoloration. Almost went through an entire role of them. super clean.

Next I laid the bearings down in the block and cleaned the crank, it went in dry. I am checking for clearance after all oil will throw the reading off. After cutting and laying the plastigauge down on the crank I placed each cap in its spot (after installing the bearings into them) then torqued to 65ftlbs. After removing the mains I checked the plastigauge thickness against the ruler on both crank side and bearing face. that's howwe like it nice and tight... 15 thousandths is a nice number. This was uniform on all mains, we polished the crank and went with a clevite P1 bearing. I'm happy with the results.
I removed the crank and after I applied a nice dose of assembly lube reinstalled it. The crank spins over very nicely with little to no effort.
This is all I had time for today, next I will gap the piston rings.

CarMichael Angelo · May 13, 2018

a91what said:
So after appeasing the powers that be I was able to get out to the shed and clean the block up. I did not want to make the same mistake I did a few years ago (did not clean well enough)... This time the engine got a good wash down with soap and water, then brakeclean, then all the cylinders got wiped down thoroughly with paper towels and penetrating oil. After all that washing and cleaning the penetrating oil kept removing debris, I cleaned until the towel showed no discoloration. Almost went through an entire role of them. super clean.

Next I laid the bearings down in the block and cleaned the crank, it went in dry. I am checking for clearance after all oil will throw the reading off. After cutting and laying the plastigauge down on the crank I placed each cap in its spot (after installing the bearings into them) then torqued to 65ftlbs. After removing the mains I checked the plastigauge thickness against the ruler on both crank side and bearing face. that's howwe like it nice and tight... 15 thousandths is a nice number. This was uniform on all mains, we polished the crank and went with a clevite P1 bearing. I'm happy with the results.
I removed the crank and after I applied a nice dose of assembly lube reinstalled it. The crank spins over very nicely with little to no effort.
This is all I had time for today, next I will gap the piston rings.

Be careful when grinding those rings. The cutter will seem to not take off very much after just a few cranks. You'll be tempted to crank the thing more as you go on, but I'm recommending just a few at a time till you get where you want to be. Especially the second ring. The second ring is usually ductile iron, and it will cut way faster that a plasma moly top ring. I ruined a couple of rings on the first build by underestimating how many cranks on the second ring..

a91what · May 14, 2018

CarMichael Angelo said:
Be careful when grinding those rings. The cutter will seem to not take off very much after just a few cranks. You'll be tempted to crank the thing more as you go on, but I'm recommending just a few at a time till you get where you want to be. Especially the second ring. The second ring is usually ductile iron, and it will cut way faster that a plasma moly top ring. I ruined a couple of rings on the first build by underestimating how many cranks on the second ring..

Thanks for the advice Mike, I definitely dont want to ruin a ring set on this build. I am using a iron top ring and a gapless second ring, they were not cheap.

stanglx2002 · May 14, 2018

a91what said:
So after appeasing the powers that be I was able to get out to the shed and clean the block up. I did not want to make the same mistake I did a few years ago (did not clean well enough)... This time the engine got a good wash down with soap and water, then brakeclean, then all the cylinders got wiped down thoroughly with paper towels and penetrating oil. After all that washing and cleaning the penetrating oil kept removing debris, I cleaned until the towel showed no discoloration. Almost went through an entire role of them. super clean.

Next I laid the bearings down in the block and cleaned the crank, it went in dry. I am checking for clearance after all oil will throw the reading off. After cutting and laying the plastigauge down on the crank I placed each cap in its spot (after installing the bearings into them) then torqued to 65ftlbs. After removing the mains I checked the plastigauge thickness against the ruler on both crank side and bearing face. that's howwe like it nice and tight... 15 thousandths is a nice number. This was uniform on all mains, we polished the crank and went with a clevite P1 bearing. I'm happy with the results.
I removed the crank and after I applied a nice dose of assembly lube reinstalled it. The crank spins over very nicely with little to no effort.
This is all I had time for today, next I will gap the piston rings.

is that the final color you are going with on the engine...gray...or is that primer?

a91what · May 14, 2018

I knew eventually someone would ask, yes that is the final color. The shortblock will be new ford grey, heads/blower will be ford semi gloss black, intake mainifold will likely be painted aluminum or cast coat aluminum. The valve covers are chrome but they were free and easily changeable. The front dress will be silver, grey, or black.

I dont have an accent color on the car so not sure how one would look to be truthful. I was going to paint the pulleys ford blue but decided against it.... The cylinder heads are iron so they may look good in blue....

stanglx2002 · May 14, 2018

a91what said:
I knew eventually someone would ask, yes that is the final color. The shortblock will be new ford grey, heads/blower will be ford semi gloss black, intake mainifold will likely be painted aluminum or cast coat aluminum. The valve covers are chrome but they were free and easily changeable. The front dress will be silver, grey, or black.

I dont have an accent color on the car so not sure how one would look to be truthful. I was going to paint the pulleys ford blue but decided against it.... The cylinder heads are iron so they may look good in blue....

I had to go back and double check if a decision was made

What color for the oil pan?

Not sure if the gray and blue would go together with the black and silver you are planning. To many colors in my opinion.

a91what · May 14, 2018

stanglx2002 said:
I had to go back and double check if a decision was made

What color for the oil pan?

Not should if the gray and blue would go together with the black and silver you are planning. To many colors in my opinion.

This was my thought exactly, I like the neutral tones. The oil pan is a toss up between the same grey and black...

stanglx2002 · May 14, 2018

I vote for black on the oil pan

Oil Pan - Black
Block - Gray
Heads - Gray
Valve Covers - Black
Intake - Gray
Blower - Black
Brackets/Pulleys - Black
Alternator - Silver???
A/C - Silver????

a91what · May 14, 2018

Ok so trying to come up with ideas for the new intake for the blower. I want it to look good and flow well, what I made last time wont fo. While searching for a reasonably priced TB that flowed well enough I came across this.
what do you guys think? I would still have to make a plenum yo get this attached but it would look the part I think.
Or.... who thinks I should do the dual Tb thing again.

CarMichael Angelo · May 14, 2018

a91what said:
Ok so trying to come up with ideas for the new intake for the blower. I want it to look good and flow well, what I made last time wont fo. While searching for a reasonably priced TB that flowed well enough I came across this.
what do you guys think? I would still have to make a plenum yo get this attached but it would look the part I think.
Or.... who thinks I should do the dual Tb thing again.

I'm confused as to why you think you need this much incoming air, and two tb's when there are scads of guys making hundreds more horsepower than you plan to with one big one.

I made over 1300 with a single 100.

What's the equivalent circumference of that dual blade unit you're considering?

RaggedGT · May 14, 2018

One and done

a91what · May 15, 2018

Equivalent to a 80mm single blade. I dont want to create a restriction before the blower, any kind of restriction will create extreme iat temps.
All that aside I do have a single 75mm that will most likely get the job done and I can upgrade that in the future.

hoopty5.0 · May 15, 2018

Im catching up here, but noticed 15 thou clearance seems tight. I thought it was supposed to be .001" for every inch of journal?

a91what · May 15, 2018

hoopty5.0 said:
Im catching up here, but noticed 15 thou clearance seems tight. I thought it was supposed to be .001" for every inch of journal?

Good call Collin, I was quoting the haynes manual for the spec on the main. After calling Bullfrog he told me to bring the bearings back up to him and he would swap them out to a regular from the P1, this should take me to .0025. He said the .0015 would be fine for an N/A street motor but he is concerned with the stress from the boost and wants to loosen them up.
I also ordered the head gaskets, cometic MLS expensive suckers. 78$ each.

stanglx2002 · May 15, 2018

With all the ECU modifications you are doing are you planning on incorporating a knock sensor? Also, have you thought about using the MS Nitrous Activation for deploying a two-step Water Meth Injection?

a91what · May 15, 2018

stanglx2002 said:
With all the ECU modifications you are doing are you planning on incorporating a knock sensor? Also, have you thought about using the MS Nitrous Activation for deploying a two-step Water Meth Injection?

The knock code in the MS2 is meh at best... i would need to buy a ms knock sense to really dial it in the right way. The knock on MS3 is the ish but i dont have that.

I considered doing a two step injection method, i also considered doing a pwm output to a nitrous solenoid and controlling it from the tinyxo... honestly i could do the same thing with the boost control output and very the pwm% with a set value table.

a91what · May 16, 2018

Stalled for about 2 days, the bearings need to be loosened up. The shop is going to swap the bearings for a standard size for no cost, the rods were super tight. So tomorrow I will pick up my new bearings and the cometic head gaskets.
So for right now I am just taking my time and making sure things are done right, i want to build this one time. After the crank goes back in i will tackle the piston rings for #1.. once this is done I can degree the cam in, I plan on destroying a few of the stock lifters and making a set of solid roller lifters with them. With these I will check for PTV and pushrod length.

@CarMichael Angelo you win I will use the single 75mm TB I have sitting around and we will see how the car responds. My goal is only 400rwhp the 75mm TB should support that.

CarMichael Angelo · May 16, 2018

a91what said:
Stalled for about 2 days, the bearings need to be loosened up. The shop is going to swap the bearings for a standard size for no cost, the rods were super tight. So tomorrow I will pick up my new bearings and the cometic head gaskets.
So for right now I am just taking my time and making sure things are done right, i want to build this one time. After the crank goes back in i will tackle the piston rings for #1.. once this is done I can degree the cam in, I plan on destroying a few of the stock lifters and making a set of solid roller lifters with them. With these I will check for PTV and pushrod length.

@CarMichael Angelo you win I will use the single 75mm TB I have sitting around and we will see how the car responds. My goal is only 400rwhp the 75mm TB should support that.

I wasn't trying to "win",.....I was trying to appeal to the rational side of your brain. (This coming from me................................I know, right?)

a91what · May 16, 2018

CarMichael Angelo said:
I wasn't trying to "win",.....I was trying to appeal to the rational side of your brain. (This coming from me................................I know, right?)

Rational........

WTF is that?

a91what · May 16, 2018

Trying to make some kind of progress so tonight I cleaned the water-pump up and am painting it.

Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

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