Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

a91what said:

Obviously you guys have alot more money than I do.

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I've been kicking around the idea of building a Dart SHP 347, maybe we could get a deal if we buy two

The whole premise of getting and flogging a JY engine baffles me. Why go through the extra work? It's not gonna be the solution to your problem.

I was half kidding when I suggested a JY 351. In reality, it's still an expensive solution.
A 351 will withstand your power objectives, it'll fit on the same mount pedestals, and your trans will bolt up to it. Your cam is the only thing that will swap.
The heads will be too small, the intake won't work, the headers won't fit, you'll need a new timing chain, and all of your custom built front drive will have to be adapted. And even after all of that.......it's a stock rod, xxx mile, hyper u crap tic piston-ed gamble.

A JY 302/5.0 is just a bomb waiting for you to light the fuse.....( read 10+ psi)
You will be in the exact same place that you are now.

Fixing what you have is the same thing as above.

Sooner or later, all of the 5.0 guys with forced induction come to terms with with the limitations of the block. Some find out the hard way when they end up with a hole in the pan, water in the oil, or parts sticking out of the block that used to be in the block.
Others just face reality, and take the pill.

The pill is that big nasty tasting one that has the letters D.A.R.T. on it.

The other half of my reasoning for a 351 is that...." On a budget"... Built reasonably, without a lot a fab work....it is your solution. With one caveat....

You just gotta dump that blower.

The 78 mm Chinee turbo on the Monster cost 279.00. You'll be able to find something similar.

You can fab up a hot side using your 5.0 shorties. You're injecting water/meth.....there is no cold side ( figuratively) Whatever intake you find will work. You will not have to rack your brain trying to make your front drive adapt. A set of decent pistons and some good rod bolts. Your willingness to accept lower power gains till you find a better set of heads, and a much lower machine bill than a dart block option will potentially get you back to a place faster than any path involving that jag blower.

I'm the king of beating stock sht to death. I broke a 351 in half exactly the same way a 5.0 fails. ( it took a fuel solenoid failure and a severely rattled engine making 900 hp to do that though)
I split a 460 cylinder apart when I rattled that engine off the line ( Again, probably 700+ hp,...too much timing, too much nitrous, not enough brains, too big of a head, too much, too soon( like a 350 shot, off the line))

" I guess I shoulda kept my mouth shut when I starting bragging about my car...."

I agree...a turbo is probably a much better solution, easier to implement. Obviously, you have a ton of blood, sweat, and tears in your blower. I wish I had a lot more money to spend on my stuff. I might actually want to work on it more. I can dream a lot bigger than my wallet can afford. The quick and easy solution is find a cheap shortblock, tune accordingly and get back on the road.

I would think they would have measured the mains to see if align hone was necessary, then inform you
and proceed as necessary.
Just my uneducated opinion.

All the old machine shops I used to deal with would measure everything and advise what needed to be done.

These new machinists seem like total jokes....just like most new mechanics.

I say to tear the one in the car back down and find out what gave up the ghost.

Or buy this but hurry up...free shipping

https://sportcompactwarehouse.com/dart-10970040-iron-eagle-pro-sbc-227-cylinder-head

a91what said:

I get where you guys are coming from.

But, I dont have huge power goals... hell I still have gt40iron heads. I just need the bottom end to stop self destructing, called the machinist they did everything to the block except an align hone... they said I don't ask to have it done, how am I supposed to know it needs an align hone? Isn't that something the machinest is supposed to tell me I need.

I just need to drive my car, it already makes enough power that the car is sketchy.

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I don't think it's that.

Wasn't that engine the same engine that had the small blower on it?
Wasn't it a running engine before that?

What ever happened the first time, happened exactly the same the second I'm guessing.
( probably had nothing to do with too much oil in the pan.. And was accelerated the second time when all of the old metal debris that didn't get flushed from the first failure embedded itself in the suspect bearing the second time.)
The rods guys......you throw in stock, un- worked rods and you wonder why rod bearings spin. 5.0 rods use weanie assed 5/16" rod bolts. probably is good for the original build only. Then rebuild the engine, never resize the rods, don't do jack to try and keep the big end intact with decent rod prep, and this is what you get.

If you're gonna build a time bomb, make sure you use good stuff to keep it from blowing up before you want it to.

90sickfox said:

All the old machine shops I used to deal with would measure everything and advise what needed to be done.

These new machinists seem like total jokes....just like most new mechanics.

I say to tear the one in the car back down and find out what gave up the ghost.

Or buy this but hurry up...free shipping

https://sportcompactwarehouse.com/dart-10970040-iron-eagle-pro-sbc-227-cylinder-head

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The listing reads "cylinder head" for 877.00. Not Block. 227 cc CYLINDER HEAD.
Notice the small print that says " some images may not represent the actual product"
Like this image....that is the actual product

CarMichael Angelo said:

The listing reads "cylinder head" for 877.00. Not Block. 227 cc CYLINDER HEAD.
Notice the small print that says " some images may not represent the actual product"
Like this image....that is the actual product

Click to expand...

That's crazy...and I was a lil' tipsy.... guess I'll have to buy a 350 block now.. Should've read the heading.