Hell, I'm shaking my head now. If only I could get pass the body work.
I hate body work.
It's like painting a wall in the house
Hell, I'm shaking my head now. If only I could get pass the body work.Mike, I follow your thread and just shake my head sometimes..
I hate to admit this but I should have taken a tig class. Lol.
What a pita! If there is more than a 1/16 gap you have to be really careful of the weld dropping in, plenty of filler to keep the puddle cooled but moving.... I got this far today.
Depends on which way the air is flowing past the lip. If it is going from slightly smaller ID to larger, then no worries. If the air flow hits a smaller dia. lip then it will hurt flow for sure. How much depends on pipe dia. and air flow requirements. If the pipe will supply way more air than necessary, then again nothing to worry about.Got the turn in the passenger fender welded up.this one took a lot less time and fitment was better.
How much of a flow loss will occur if the air has a lip in the piping to contend with? Like when one pipe is just slightly larger than the other before welding?
About 450hp. I don't know what a 3" pipe is capable of flowing.Depends on which way the air is flowing past the lip. If it is going from slightly smaller ID to larger, then no worries. If the air flow hits a smaller dia. lip then it will hurt flow for sure. How much depends on pipe dia. and air flow requirements. If the pipe will supply way more air than necessary, then again nothing to worry about.
Another big factor is pipe length. The longer the pipe the less overall flow. If the pipe is 3 feet long then you may want to consider a 3 1/2" dia piece. Then again, if this pipe is on the pressure side, then the 3" piece will be good enough. Pressure makes dia much much less of an issue.About 450hp. I don't know what a 3" pipe is capable of flowing.
You mean " Build", as in you do it, and don't pay somebody?, because you won't/don't/can't do it yourself, that kinda build?Got the turn in the passenger fender welded up.this one took a lot less time and fitment was better.
How much of a flow loss will occur if the air has a lip in the piping to contend with? Like when one pipe is just slightly larger than the other before welding....
Soooo what's it gonna take to get this thread dubbed BUILD?
Thanks MikeYou mean " Build", as in you do it, and don't pay somebody?, because you won't/don't/can't do it yourself, that kinda build?
Done.
Ported you say? Done! That's the first thing I did when I got it.... right now I'm playing hell with everything else.This looks like a fun project, the reason you are probably enjoying it so much is that the m90 is known to make a lot of torque on a 5.0 pushrod engine.
If you are still looking to figure out real power numbers, back in the day the BBK instacharger was good for about 300rwhp@6lbs. Forgot the torque, but it's much higher than the hp.
Which in inline with what the explorer 5.0 kit on my saleen explorer was good for considering the guys who designed the kit (kit was easy on the explorer since there is no distributer blocking the snout) made 286rwhp with an auto trans and 2wd rear.
I had the one on my explorer ported when the shaft was repaired because the keyway slipped and the pulley messed it up.
You look like you are pretty decent at fabbing stuff up, so you could probably port yours yourself based on pics. Gets you some power up top, lowers the heat soak a little too. Not sure i'd recommend paying for it, at stegemiere a full rebuild (might as well it was there), porting, keyway and a new pulley cost about the same you are into this whole project, lol.
This looks like a fun project, the reason you are probably enjoying it so much is that the m90 is known to make a lot of torque on a 5.0 pushrod engine.
If you are still looking to figure out real power numbers, back in the day the BBK instacharger was good for about 300rwhp@6lbs. Forgot the torque, but it's much higher than the hp.
Which in inline with what the explorer 5.0 kit on my saleen explorer was good for considering the guys who designed the kit (kit was easy on the explorer since there is no distributer blocking the snout) made 286rwhp with an auto trans and 2wd rear.
I had the one on my explorer ported when the shaft was repaired because the keyway slipped and the pulley messed it up.
You look like you are pretty decent at fabbing stuff up, so you could probably port yours yourself based on pics. Gets you some power up top, lowers the heat soak a little too. Not sure i'd recommend paying for it, at stegemiere a full rebuild (might as well it was there), porting, keyway repair and a new pulley cost about the same you are into this whole project, lol.
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