Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

CarMichael Angelo · Jul 2, 2016

a91what said:
Oh and the IAT sensor will be going in the intake piping before the tb. I knew I ordered these bugs wrong 2 years ago for a reason.... lol.
any reason I can't feed all the vacuum loads with one block? (Including the brake booster)??

I have everything (including the FP regulator) sourced from a "Frank-N-Log" hanging directly off of the bottom my intake.
Boost ga, BOV, PWR brake booster, Vacuum modulator for the Trans, and FPR all tied into one piece of 1/2" pipe plumbed directly into Mike's BMW wannabe intake manifold.

a91what · Jul 5, 2016

Okay so I got the new intake on and started Plumbing some things up. On the long list of things to do I need to change the fuel line crossovers right now they're too short finish routing in the bypass do the heater hoses set the distributor and before this is over I'd like to redo the feed-pipe to the throttle body it works but I'd like it to look better too awful lot of couplers and T clamps and one small space. I'm still waiting for my valve covers I have them already but they're at a friend's house he's polishing them for me

a91what · Jul 6, 2016

Got more done. Still have to redo the intake pipe, rebuild the blower, add the IAT sensor, new valve covers and an evacuation system and do general underhand cleanup wish I would have wire tucked this thing .... but it runs!

Davedacarpainter · Jul 6, 2016

a91what said:
Got more done. Still have to redo the intake pipe, rebuild the blower, add the IAT sensor, new valve covers and an evacuation system and do general underhand cleanup wish I would have wire tucked this thing .... but it runs!

Even with those wires laying all over the engine, it's beautiful brother. Nice job!

95BlueStallion · Jul 7, 2016

Cool! Get it tuned up and let us know how it feels!

a91what · Jul 14, 2016

Got lots more done will give a larger update tomorrow with pics! It's mostly boring stuff.... cut-weld-fit,cut-weld-fit....... couldn't find that pesky hole saw that is hiding somewhere in my clutter for the MAT sensor bung.... put the new valve covers on, my placement of the supercharger requires it's removal to get at the plugs, wires and valve cover bolts..... go me.

I am going to attempt to make a vented catch can for the valve covers to breath into. I hear it now "why make one Steve? They are cheap" well.... uhhh.... cuz I wants to.

RaggedGT · Jul 14, 2016

Make your catch can outta one of these.. Be pretty cool

a91what · Jul 16, 2016

Well I promised everyone pictures but that's not going to happen. Today I got the timing set and let the car idle for about 15 minutes make sure I wouldn't have any leaks. Well I do but it's not coolant it's oil oil everywhere. Under the advice of some seasoned racers instead of using the gaskets on the lifter Valley rails I use a thick bead of silicone. Well apparently I either didn't use enough silicone or something went wrong somewhere I have oil spewing out both ends. So now I get to rebuild my rebuild I'm not too happy as I go on vacation tomorrow and I will not be taking my convertible to the beach.

Davedacarpainter · Jul 16, 2016

a91what said:
Well I promised everyone pictures but that's not going to happen. Today I got the timing set and let the car idle for about 15 minutes make sure I wouldn't have any leaks. Well I do but it's not coolant it's oil oil everywhere. Under the advice of some seasoned racers instead of using the gaskets on the lifter Valley rails I use a thick bead of silicone. Well apparently I either didn't use enough silicone or something went wrong somewhere I have oil spewing out both ends. So now I get to rebuild my rebuild I'm not too happy as I go on vacation tomorrow and I will not be taking my convertible to the beach.

Man that sucks, walk away from it, have a drink or two. Go on vacation, rent a new mustang, then come back with a fresh mind and fix it up.

CarMichael Angelo · Jul 17, 2016

a91what said:
Well I promised everyone pictures but that's not going to happen. Today I got the timing set and let the car idle for about 15 minutes make sure I wouldn't have any leaks. Well I do but it's not coolant it's oil oil everywhere. Under the advice of some seasoned racers instead of using the gaskets on the lifter Valley rails I use a thick bead of silicone. Well apparently I either didn't use enough silicone or something went wrong somewhere I have oil spewing out both ends. So now I get to rebuild my rebuild I'm not too happy as I go on vacation tomorrow and I will not be taking my convertible to the beach.

Yeah, that's not a good thing, especially considering how much has to be undone to fix it.

The "racer" advice is the same advice I'd have given you too. I havent used either the cork, or rubber end gaskets on any windsor I've built since the 80's. It does take a thick bead though,......like 3/8". I'd ordinarily allow that to start to set up before setting the manifold so it's wouldn't spooge and create a leak.

Since you and I have talked, you know I have concerns myself, and even after I get past my biggest hurdle w/ Dave's help,.....I think I may have an oil leak myself..

Here.

The damn plate that is buried under the intake is sealed completely w/ silicone. I do believe that it is leaking and that will require a fairly complete tear down to get to.

So yeah,....you got a pain in the ass coming up.....wanna trade pains?

CarMichael Angelo · Jul 17, 2016

RaggedGT said:
Make your catch can outta one of these.. Be pretty cool

Raggedy............always coming up with expensive assed solutions to cheap assed problems.

Who the hell is gonna use an insulated Yeti cooler for any purpose other than what it was intended for?..........

........

Uhh.....

Scratch that.

RaggedGT · Jul 17, 2016

madmike1157 said:
Raggedy............always coming up with expensive assed solutions to cheap assed problems.

Who the hell is gonna use an insulated Yeti cooler for any purpose other than what it was intended for?..........

........

Uhh.....

Scratch that.

Be pretty cool looking though right?
lol

a91what · Jul 22, 2016

Okay so normally in one of these threads what you do is you post pictures of things and updates as you go and build well apparently I'm not very good at that what I end up doing is completing an entire project and then post pictures of the final outcome. So in saying that what I have for you here today are pictures of the final outcome of my catch can. The can consists of 12 inches of 3 inch exhaust tubing 4 half inch hose Barb's 1 pack of course steel wool various adapters for a drain petcock and some sheet metal for the ends. I have yet to test it because as soon as I got it installed the bottom fell out of the sky figures.

Davedacarpainter · Jul 22, 2016

a91what said:
Okay so normally in one of these threads what you do is you post pictures of things and updates as you go and build well apparently I'm not very good at that what I end up doing is completing an entire project and then post pictures of the final outcome. So in saying that what I have for you here today are pictures of the final outcome of my catch can. The can consists of 12 inches of 3 inch exhaust tubing 4 half inch hose Barb's 1 pack of course steel wool various adapters for a drain petcock and some sheet metal for the ends. I have yet to test it because as soon as I got it installed the bottom fell out of the sky figures.

Frankenstang LIVES!!!! BWAHAAHAAHAAHAA!

At least I hope so brother, good luck.

Very creative, btw!

a91what · Jul 24, 2016

@jrichker OK I got the ground installed from the back batteries all the way up to the engine block. It's a 1/0 welding cable with copper lugs, bolted to shiny clean metal.
The cold start was perfect, hot start after I let it heat soak not so much... it's way better than before but my voltmeter is showing only 9v at the solenoid cranking.

I have not replaced the positive cable yet, I have the 1/0 welding cable to do it with just need time. Do you think the cable that is on there now is the issue? (Basically wire for amplifiers, came with battery relocation kit looks cheap)

jrichker · Jul 24, 2016

a91what said:
@jrichker OK I got the ground installed from the back batteries all the way up to the engine block. It's a 1/0 welding cable with copper lugs, bolted to shiny clean metal.
The cold start was perfect, hot start after I let it heat soak not so much... it's way better than before but my voltmeter is showing only 9v at the solenoid cranking.

I have not replaced the positive cable yet, I have the 1/0 welding cable to do it with just need time. Do you think the cable that is on there now is the issue? (Basically wire for amplifiers, came with battery relocation kit looks cheap)

Use the voltage drop test to find where you are losing voltage. While the tech note says grounds, the principle applies to any electrical connection, be it power, ground or signal

Voltage drop testing of connections and grounds.

Use a Digital Volt Meter (DVM) to measure the voltage drop across a connection or wire. Adding length to the test leads may be required, and does not affect the accuracy of the test. Use 16-18 gauge wire for the test leads if you have to lengthen them.

Voltage drop increases with the increase of current in a circuit and it also increases with heat. Put a maximum current load on a bad wire or connection and it gets hot and drops more voltage across the wire or connection. As it heats up, resistance increases which makes more heat. Round and round you go in a vicious circle until something catches fire or fails.

Voltage drop testing must be done while the usual load is on the circuit. If it is a starter, it has to be tested while cranking the starter. If it is lights, A/C or fan, they must be turned on high while testing. Fail to do this and you will not get accurate results

1.) Most grounds use the negative battery post as their starting point. Keep this in mind when checking grounds.
2.) The voltage will be small if the ground is good: less voltage drop = better connection.
3.) Be sure that the power to the circuit is on, and the circuit is being used in its normal manner. For instance, if it is a light circuit, the lights on that circuit should be powered on.
4.) To measure grounds, place one DVM lead on the battery negative post and the other on the wire or connector that goes to ground.
5.) 5.) Voltage drops should not exceed the following:
200 mV Wire or cable
300 mV Switch
100 mV Ground
0 mV to <50 mV Sensor Connections (sensors are low voltage devices and small drops can have a large effect on the devices dependent on sensor accuracy)
0.0V Connections
A voltage drop lower that spec is always acceptable.
6.)
See http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/automotive/beatbook.pdf for help for help troubleshooting voltage drops across connections and components. .

a91what · Jul 26, 2016

Thanks @jrichker I'm all fixed up!

Going to start the retune shortly, only a few areas to get the afr back on target in. I will say that with this intake the car will idle much lower, the cobra lowest idle 900 without stalling issues. This intake I can get down to 750 with no issue.... that's with an e cam not to shabby.

stykthyn · Jul 26, 2016

Well yeah, you don't have that plenum to keep full anymore.

jrichker · Jul 26, 2016

a91what said:
Thanks @jrichker I'm all fixed up!

Going to start the retune shortly, only a few areas to get the afr back on target in. I will say that with this intake the car will idle much lower, the cobra lowest idle 900 without stalling issues. This intake I can get down to 750 with no issue.... that's with an e cam not to shabby.

Glad to be of service.
It is very interesting to see what can be done by someone who is both persistent and skillful. The 750 RPM idle with a E cam shatters some of the myth that you need 900 RPM to make it idle.

a91what · Jul 26, 2016

jrichker said:
Glad to be of service.
It is very interesting to see what can be done by someone who is both persistent and skillful. The 750 RPM idle with a E cam shatters some of the myth that you need 900 RPM to make it idle.

I was actually successful in getting the car to idle down to 650 rpm steady (albeit with a small hunt) it's all about afr and timing... lower idle pulls less vacuum so you need more timing to bring the vacuum signal up, this causes it's own issue however because then you must restrict the air charge more (less throttle) and this causes the car to hunt as the iac fights hard against the vacuum pulses..... I settled on an 775 rpm idle so when I load the engine (electric loads and ps load) at idle I don't get a drop in rpm. Blah blah blah lala LA LA LA LA LA blah blah.... tuning voodoo black magic chicken bone.

Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches

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