Build Thread Enola- Finishing touches
- Thread starter a91what
- Start date
Not sure it will be possible, I looked at them the other day and the tear is in the vinyl and parts of the piping are torn.... I suppose I could do the full Dave rebuild with seat foam and all.... but I'm gonna see what my JY options are.
The seat foam really makes a big difference Steve. I know at $150 per seat it's kind of pricey, but boy does it change the feel of the seat.
Uhhmm, not sure those are UPR springs. UPR uses Eibach springs, and have a part number like "14-150" and only appear to go up to 200#.I assume they are the 350# springs
Part number read as follows.
11. 2-350-64.5-64.5
They were on the race car, we used the new coilovers that came with the k member. So the old Springs we used on my car.
Thing rides like a dream and stays planted in the corners...
http://www.uprproducts.com/mustang-coil-over-springs-14-125.html
But, if it rides nice and suits your purposes, F it, let it ride!
- Jul 7, 2005
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I assume they are the 350# springs
Part number read as follows.
11. 2-350-64.5-64.5
They were on the race car, we used the new coilovers that came with the k member. So the old Springs we used on my car.
Thing rides like a dream and stays planted in the corners...
Definitely wouldn't be 350# springs as those are what I have on my car for road race specs. Coming off a drag racing car they are probably in the 175-225# range ad they would be very soft and also good for street driving. Coilovers make a HUGE difference because of the location of the spring being on the strut not in the a-arm
krazedstang
15 Year Member
It's Monday again so as I promised here are some pictures of the coil over installation.
gutting the old chit.
here is my sideways picture of the assembled coil over assembly... we had to cut the dust cap off the strut. Then installation was pretty straight forward.
my world is on its side today....
Ready for final assembly, still needed to tighten everything up.
Why haven't I put these on before now? I'm stupid. That's why.
Car drives better rides better brakes better.... well it's just better.
I did lift the nose of the car up about 1/2 inch or so, now it doesn't bottom out when I hit the brakes hard.
Now please forgive my ignorance but this is really the first time I've actually looked into coilovers kits (I was looking at the MM ones at LMR) and they look like they're just the springs over the strut (Granted accommodating struts are needed. Use of Koni, Tokico, Lakewood or KYB) Am I right?
- Jul 7, 2005
- 1,563
- 1,110
- 164
Very close....There is a spring perch that is installed over the strut with an adjustment ring screwed on. The spring is then installed next followed by the coilover hat on top of the spring. The strut is then mounted at normal to the spindle and caster/camber plates.
One item to know though..... You need to buy aftermarket caster/camber plates before installing coilovers. The stock ones can't withstand the installation of coilovers on them.
A good read for you...http://www.maximummotorsports.com/assets/install/pdf/front_susp/MMCC7989r6.pdf
+1
My struts were just stock replacement Monroe... the instructions said to remove the dust cap. I just drilled the spot welds and tapped it off with a hammer.
My struts were just stock replacement Monroe... the instructions said to remove the dust cap. I just drilled the spot welds and tapped it off with a hammer.
krazedstang
15 Year Member
I'd like to note something often neglected when people purchase coil over kits. MM (and some other companies) design their coil over kits for specific brand struts only. Straying from these specific brand struts may result in noisy, chattery, or squeaking suspension. If the c/o kit does not incorporate torrington bearings then I'd steer clear of them.
Got to drive the car around town tonight, took the wife on a nice cruise. Things went well but I have a few things to note.... wife no likey when the car creeps into boost and the front lifts, it scares her. 
Still getting some exhaust and crank case smells in the car..... I am going to have to move the catch can off the fire wall. I also think I may hate my headers they come loose every 3000miles.
Car nearly stalled a few times for no reason, (when I am creeping along and press the clutch in it stumbles on itself) I am certain this is caused by my tandem throttle body setup and the large volume between them (acts like a massive plenum between the supercharger and manifold).... I am open for ideas on this one. (Solution may be a cam swap
this e303).
For reference the setup is as follows...
75mmtb mounted to a m90sc-6' of 3" pipe and a huge fmic-To a 65mm tb on an elbow to a funnel Web intake. There is a bypass installed.
At low rpm/idle there is 5" vacuum in the intercooler and 14"in the plenum.
Still getting some exhaust and crank case smells in the car..... I am going to have to move the catch can off the fire wall. I also think I may hate my headers they come loose every 3000miles.
Car nearly stalled a few times for no reason, (when I am creeping along and press the clutch in it stumbles on itself) I am certain this is caused by my tandem throttle body setup and the large volume between them (acts like a massive plenum between the supercharger and manifold).... I am open for ideas on this one. (Solution may be a cam swap
this e303).For reference the setup is as follows...
75mmtb mounted to a m90sc-6' of 3" pipe and a huge fmic-To a 65mm tb on an elbow to a funnel Web intake. There is a bypass installed.
At low rpm/idle there is 5" vacuum in the intercooler and 14"in the plenum.
No "dislike" button to use here. Fortunately, when I'm in the shop, I don't get bugged. I can't believe she can't find it. Must be so much guy stuff in there her allergies flare up so she stays away.
Instead of a dislike button (potential for misuse is obvious), I'm leaning toward a "WTF" button. Still mulling it over.
Wish I could actually be of some help,sadly I got nothing..... Maybe the blades on the throttle bodie's are not 100% synced up?Got to drive the car around town tonight, took the wife on a nice cruise. Things went well but I have a few things to note.... wife no likey when the car creeps into boost and the front lifts, it scares her.
Still getting some exhaust and crank case smells in the car..... I am going to have to move the catch can off the fire wall. I also think I may hate my headers they come loose every 3000miles.
Car nearly stalled a few times for no reason, (when I am creeping along and press the clutch in it stumbles on itself) I am certain this is caused by my tandem throttle body setup and the large volume between them (acts like a massive plenum between the supercharger and manifold).... I am open for ideas on this one. (Solution may be a cam swap **** this e303).
For reference the setup is as follows...
75mmtb mounted to a m90sc-6' of 3" pipe and a huge fmic-To a 65mm tb on an elbow to a funnel Web intake. There is a bypass installed.
At low rpm/idle there is 5" vacuum in the intercooler and 14"in the plenum.
I am fairly certain it has everything to do with the amount of vacuum signal I have at idle. Tuning has proven this, what I truly need is a cam swap. The 110lsa I have now needs to be ditched in favor of a 115 or wider LSA cam. A custom bump stick will go in if this route is chosen.