epic dissapointment, ?'s about cardone reman parts, and the whole front suspension

fivespeedsteed

Dirt-Old 20+Year Member
Oct 17, 2003
747
18
69
Richmond, VA
long story short i have a lot of minor issues with this car. no one has any advice in my build thread, i think its probably the most boring build thread on here, all i want is opinions on what to do then ill stop bugging the board.

ive got a 5 lug setup, rear of the whole car is fine, thats ranger stuff out back, the front is 95 calipers, spindles, hubs, soft brake lines new rotors new pads, new 94-04 moog problem solver balljoints new moog tie rod ends, cardone reman ps rack from advance, reman ps pump from advance, mercon 5 fluid in it, ive sat and bled the fluid out, its got new solid rack mount bushings in it with the spacer sleeve cut and all, the new kinda with the spherical bushings and stuff, new polyurethane control arm bushings, c springs and its got the original okay shape isos in the front, maximum motorsports cc plates, the front struts are 2 year old tokico blues. only thing out of the ordinary is the cc plates i bought new from a guy on corral, and there were spacers missing, so i got 2 from lowes, and i had to sandpaper out the inside a little to get them to go over the top of the strut. and ive done my best to tighten the strut bolt down real hard.

problems are when your sitting still and turn the wheel lock to lock, at random places the wheels shutter across the ground, and the ps pump (should be in good shape) but the wheels jitter kinda , and the lines bounce around casue the fluid i guess isnt going smoothly so somethings gotta be putting stress on it somewhere.

second is a pop, i get it most of the time going real slow in a lot and i take it close to full lock, then go a little further and it pops once. i hear it sometimes when im slowing down and turning some. before the 5 lug the balljoints were shot and it did the same things but twice going one way and it was allot louder.

the car wanders allot. i notice it on back roads and stuff i find myself having to correct it allot, ill start drifting into the other lane or towards the shoulder and have to jerk it kinda back on. more than i ever remember when i drove it before i went off to school. i thought the rack and solid bushings were going to help, and they did, but its still doing it.

the strut bolts on the top of the strut take different amounts of force to turn, one sides easy and the others harder.

i talked to jason (owner dude) at mm and he said the jittering thing is either the rack mount surface on the k member is not level and even, so he said loosen the rack, and pull it back out off the k memeber then try to move the wheels back and forth and see if it shutters. havent done that yet, im just afraid its still gonna do it, and that pisses me off. he also said that the alignment people could have set it up so its got more than 3 degrees of caster (might have said camber but i dont remember) and it should be about 2.5 or so, he said that would put too much contact patch down and can cause the jitter. the knocking he thinks is either the balljoint, or the strut being loose. he told me to get the tool from ford to tighten it down.

i think i didnt get the balljoints all the way tight. im gonna find the reciept and make sure i got the 94+ ones, not fox ones. im pretty darn sure i got the 94+ ones though cause i had them pressed in and the guy said they went in well. ive tried tightening down the control arm bolts , and strut bolts and cc bolts and all that before, just not the balljoint bolts cause its allot of work, but ill probably do that here sometime soon. the bolts that go strut to spindle might be in the wrong way, does it matter what way the bolt is facing, or what side the nut is on i mean, cause i think ive tightened them down a few times so they might be loosening.

someone said they did the same sorta thing on a taurus once they did ps pump after ps pump and it turned out the strut wasnt spinning freely and it was putting too much drag on the pump.

im so damn dissapointed in this whole effort, the car looks great but i just want to get the front end right, everything is new and nothing should be this messed up. oh well tomorrow i guess ill see how that alignment looks (have to get the sheet from the shop when they open) and go from there.

ive also got other litttle crap to do like fix door lock actuators and aim headlights and fix the front end stuff from where i rearended someone.

just getting horribly unmotivated cause i cant seem to fix anything on this car these days.

any advice is welcome sorry its so long
 
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Hmm

Did you buy the caster/camber kit used or new? Are you running the MM urethane bumpstops that should have been included?

Changing the door actuator isn't too bad, just tedious. Not a lot of room for your hands in the door and you have to just about break your wrist putting pressure on the new actuator to get it to drop down into the little holder tabs in there.
 
Did you replace the rack mount bushings?
Make sure you have 94 or later ball joints. The fox ball joints require a spacer or washers to tighten down correctly. No spacer on the fox ball joints and you run out of threads before the joint seats tightly in the steering knuckle socket.

More caster is good: it tends to reduce road wander.
 
more caster meaning a higher number? like push the struts back as far as they'll go in the cc plates? its got the spherical bushing solid rack bushings. i bought them from a guy on corral, he said they were new never installed, but i was missing 4 spacers, they didnt look however like the locking nuts had never been tightened the locking part of thenuts were in good shape. and that bushing thing i did put in there, it slides over the strut shaft right? i had to press it on there pretty good.
 
alignment : left: right:
caster 2.87 2.92
camber -.66 -.70
toe -.14 -.15

i was kinda hoping it wold be over 3 or so so i could have them put it down to 2.6 or something


Whoa is that negative toe? I was always under the impression that negative toe will make a car wander a bunch, I would think you would want 0 degrees of toe or very little positive toe.
 
Caster is the fore and aft tilt of the spindle. Aft tilt is the positive caster that keeps the car from wandering.

Toe in is the amount each wheel points inward from the center line of the car. There is always supposed to be some amount of toe in because the outer tire travels in a greater arc than the inner tire. The toe in compensates for that difference.

See http://www.steeda.com/directions/555-8090-2-steeda-caster-camber.pdf for a typical CC plate installation & alignment specs.
 
Toe in is the amount each wheel points inward from the center line of the car. There is always supposed to be some amount of toe in because the outer tire travels in a greater arc than the inner tire. The toe in compensates for that difference.

Each app is different, that's why I said a little toe. I went with 0 degrees of toe on my WRX and it tracks great. I don't think I've ever heard of a street car running toe out before though (assuming I understood his post correctly).