Exhaust and smog questions

Wanna turn the check engine light off? Just plug in the EGR...thats it....Plug it in. Hell i have a EGR from a 1990 Lincoln Mark with the vacuum hooked up...no check engine light on a 383 stroker with NO Chip. You'll be fine.

You either have to turn the function off in the computer or leafve the sensor plugged in and dangling behind the engine.

Make sure you get all the crap inside the passenger fender!!!

Chris

I think we need to standardize the language we use a bit...

People say "smog stuff" and then responses start talking about "EGR."

To me, those are two completely different systems. The "smog stuff" would be the air pump, the AIRB valve, AIRD valve, vacuum lines that run to the two valves, the manifold tubes, and the line running to the exhaust.

If you remove this "smog stuff", then there will not be a check engine light.

The EGR system, on the other hand, includes the EGR valve, some piping, and, of course, that handy dandy electrical connection. You have to block off the opening where the valve connects when you remove the EGR. Also, there is tubing that runs down into the headers. Leave that electrical plug dangling and you get the check engine light and an improperly running engine, I believe.

So, is the OP talking about "smog stuff" or the EGR? Both systems have lines running into the exhaust. Since he talks about what a PITA it was to do the plugs on the passenger side, I am ASSUMING the issue is the smog pump and its associated plumbing. But, we all know what happens when one assumes...

alleymad95GT said:

I think we need to standardize the language we use a bit...

People say "smog stuff" and then responses start talking about "EGR."

To me, those are two completely different systems. The "smog stuff" would be the air pump, the AIRB valve, AIRD valve, vacuum lines that run to the two valves, the manifold tubes, and the line running to the exhaust.

If you remove this "smog stuff", then there will not be a check engine light.

The EGR system, on the other hand, includes the EGR valve, some piping, and, of course, that handy dandy electrical connection. You have to block off the opening where the valve connects when you remove the EGR. Also, there is tubing that runs down into the headers. Leave that electrical plug dangling and you get the check engine light and an improperly running engine, I believe.

So, is the OP talking about "smog stuff" or the EGR? Both systems have lines running into the exhaust. Since he talks about what a PITA it was to do the plugs on the passenger side, I am ASSUMING the issue is the smog pump and its associated plumbing. But, we all know what happens when one assumes...

Click to expand...

+1 what he said.....

+2 to alleymad. Pull the smog pump and associated lines and cap the vacuum lines. The EGR is easier to just leave alone. It doesn't hurt you at all. If you buy fox headers you will have to remove it though. 94-95 headers will have the port on the header for the pipe but you will need to finagle a new pipe as it moves it farther down into the header.

I'm all for removing the smog, but its easier to keep the EGR if you don't have a tuner to turn it off.

I had to do no such work on my 94 to put headers on the car. My EGR is in place but all I did was put headers on, the Smug components on the passanger side of the car are connected to my x-pipe but that is it.... also I know that the check engine light in my car does not go on unless the MAF is not connected, nothing else has ever set it off. This includes having half of those "smug" and other vac lines lose or rotting out. But maybe I just have a messed up car, which is very likely as it was beat to crap by myself when I was much younger. <---- dumb a$$ kids.

Crap, you don't need to apologize for anything.

I was just saying that we had different people assuming that you were talking about two different things, and coming to diametrically opposite conclusions (no check engine light versus check engine light).

I have been browsing this forum for a while now. I never really posted much. But, having read, as of now, most posts on here related to SN95 cars, and understanding some of the common issues people have had with these cars in the past, I am able to pretty easily sift through and find responses. I have thought about practically every single system on my car as well as about three different ways of changing each of those systems in an effort to decide what route I want to pursue in making the thing run "properly".

From what I have read here, there are a few "common" issues that pop up over and over again. One of them is "how do I get rid of the smog pump." Those threads, almost invariably, divert into discussions about EGRs and check engine lights and the need to have the car tuned, and on and on and on...all of which has nothing to do with pulling the stupid smog pump out. Yet, it happens over and over. And not just on this site, either.

So, I was more interested in making the point that the smog pump is nothing to be intimidated by, whereas the EGR system is not something quite so readily dealt with. By all means, pull that stupid smog pump out if you want to. I would recommend letting those plugs in the heads soak overnight first. Other than that, though, I think this is probably one of the easiest things you can do to the car. Will you get HP from it? Nope. Will you get the satisfaction of being able to say to yourself "I made my engine bay look a heck of a lot better"? YUP.

My EGR is all still intact, and plugged in, and leaves no CEL. Just yank out the smog stuff, block off the holes in, IIRC, the head with threaded plugs, either run a shortbelt (89.5"??) or use the eliminator bracket/pulley (what I've used in my car) to retain the stock belt length.