Exhaust Q. How to mate a 3 inch tail pipe to a 2.5 muffler outlet?

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2.5"-3" step adaptor... same way you would run a 2.5" pipe into a 3" pipe..

So would this be what you are talking about? Would these extend my tail pipes out further though then they are suppose to be? If these are a extension style adaptor, i don't think they will work simply because they might cause clearance issues and my tail pipes would stick out further then the bumper cover. Any help/idea? LMK. Thanks

I'm simply looking for some kind of adaptor that will make it work, but not move the tail pipes out or in. Could i some how make a thick spacer or something so that the outlet would be larger and would fit a 3"? I'm just throwing out ideas. LMK

View attachment 234426
 
So would this be what you are talking about? Would these extend my tail pipes out further though then they are suppose to be? If these are a extension style adaptor, i don't think they will work simply because they might cause clearance issues and my tail pipes would stick out further then the bumper cover. Any help/idea? LMK. Thanks

I'm simply looking for some kind of adaptor that will make it work, but not move the tail pipes out or in. Could i some how make a thick spacer or something so that the outlet would be larger and would fit a 3"? I'm just throwing out ideas. LMK


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this section will extend the exhaust.depending on the length of that section, If thats a problem, and you can weld, cut the tail pipes down to bring it back under the car.
 
Yeah see thats what i was thinking too. But i think the best idea would be if i could some how make the 2.5 outlet of the muffler thicker some how so that it would be able to fit the 3 inch tail pipes. Then i could just use the stock clamp as well. Maybe a spacer of some sort? Is there anything like that available or how would i go about making it? I think that would be the cleanest/best way...
 
Yeah see thats what i was thinking too. But i think the best idea would be if i could some how make the 2.5 outlet of the muffler thicker some how so that it would be able to fit the 3 inch tail pipes. Then i could just use the stock clamp as well. Maybe a spacer of some sort? Is there anything like that available or how would i go about making it? I think that would be the cleanest/best way...

thats definitly going to be a lot more effort, and possibly cause leaks as it would have to be welded to the muffler casing as well as the outlet. I dont think anything like that is made, but ive been wrong before.

personally, id look into having an exhaust shop fab it up for you, they tend to be VERY cheap
 
Here is what i was thinking...

This should allow me to slide the 3" tail pipes right over and allow the use of the stock u-bolt style clamps. Also, down the road should i go back to 2.5" tail pipes i can simply remove the spacer. The spacer would not be welded or anything, just simply slide it over the muffler outlet and slide the tail pipe on and use the stock clamp. I dont' see why this would leak either. Let me here your thoughts/ideas. I would probably just have it made from a steel tubing(spacer).


View attachment 234412
 
In my mind it is really simple. That spacer is nothing more then a piece of tubing at 1/4 inch's thick. Every cat-back system i've ever owned(magnaflow, flowmaster, dynomax) have all used u-bolt style clamps. I've never had a problem with them. I really don't want to cut brand new tail pipes.


You are making it way to difficult. Where are you gonna find a spacer like that? And I never like using clamps. Just cut back the 2.5 a little to allow this to slide over, done. What you plan on doing doesnt seem clean, it seems kind of ghetto.

View attachment 234401
Dynomax Performance 41974 - Walker Exhaust Pipe Connectors - Overview - SummitRacing.com
 
Just use a 2.5" to 3" step adaptor, man. You're trying to use a NASA supercomputer to solve 2+2 here. That spacer you're looking for doesn't exist, and if it did, good luck getting it off of there without a sledge and a blowtorch after a few heat cycles. Take it to an exhaust shop and pay the $50 or so to have it done right, or get the adaptors and do it yourself, by trimming it all to fit.
 
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