Explain the dif. between hyd. roller and solid roller cams for street car?
- Thread starter BlownStangGT
- Start date
ECU5.0
Banned
i think that solid lifter cams can rev higher..but are more detrimental to your valve train but hydraulic lifter cams are smoother....i could be wrong, but i think i read that somewhere on here
yeah I knew that, but I guess what I was thinking that a solid cam is dif. from a solid hydrolic cam, so a "solid" cam and a solid hydrolic are the same thing thne? I know roller is way way better
ECU5.0
Banned
theres no such thing as a solid hydraulic lifter. it all comes down to hydraulic or mechanical lifters and whether or not they are roller lifters. i dont know the difference between the roller and mechanical lifter cams though sorry
here is what I am refering to, thanks
347ci Dominator 550hp. 460tq.
Probe F/T pistons 11:1 C/R
AFR 58cc 205 heads
solid roller cam .621/.627 lift 254/260 dur. 110 L/C
347ci Dominator 550hp. 460tq.
Probe F/T pistons 11:1 C/R
AFR 58cc 205 heads
solid roller cam .621/.627 lift 254/260 dur. 110 L/C
NKau
Founding Member
The only "problem" I've heard of with the mechanical lifters/cam is the need to re-adjust the valves every 5,000 miles or so, but I'm not sure it's the same in all cases.
A solid lifter whether it be roller or not is just what it says solid. It does not compress. One the valve train is adjusted, it will stay for a while, but it is something that you will have to check on. (valve lash)
A hydraulic lifter pumps up with oil pressure to adjust the valve lash. automatically.
The benefit to a solid lifter is that it allows for more agressive valve lift and more rpm.
To keep the lifter following the cam lobes, a spring is used (also to close the valve). The more aggressive the lobe and the higher the rpm, the more spring is needed. It eventually gets to the point where the spring needed to keep the valve, pushrod, rocker and lifter seated together is so stiff that it begins to compress the hydraulic lifter. That does not in itself damage anything, but you dont get the performance that you designed into that cam selection.
There are some good hydraulic cams out there and some new valve spring technology to help combat compressing the lifter but to also avoid valve float (the valve, lifter or rocker arm becoming airborne in refernce to the cam profile). Comp has a set of beehive springs. Lighter valves, lifters and rocker arms also contribute to the ability of running a smaller spring.
A hydraulic lifter pumps up with oil pressure to adjust the valve lash. automatically.
The benefit to a solid lifter is that it allows for more agressive valve lift and more rpm.
To keep the lifter following the cam lobes, a spring is used (also to close the valve). The more aggressive the lobe and the higher the rpm, the more spring is needed. It eventually gets to the point where the spring needed to keep the valve, pushrod, rocker and lifter seated together is so stiff that it begins to compress the hydraulic lifter. That does not in itself damage anything, but you dont get the performance that you designed into that cam selection.
There are some good hydraulic cams out there and some new valve spring technology to help combat compressing the lifter but to also avoid valve float (the valve, lifter or rocker arm becoming airborne in refernce to the cam profile). Comp has a set of beehive springs. Lighter valves, lifters and rocker arms also contribute to the ability of running a smaller spring.
With those specs it looks like it would need to be shifted around 7500RPM, and pump gas would be sketchy.
Basically hllon4whls stated all the facts, you need to know how to correctly set-up the valvetrain with a soild roller cam, you use feeler guages to set a hot or cold lash, no more preload or 1/2" turn on the lifters. For a street car that see's a lot of miles a Hyd cam is a better choice, and even a nice aggressive hyd cam is easier on the springs and valvetrain then a healthy soild roller, especially that one in your above post.
Basically hllon4whls stated all the facts, you need to know how to correctly set-up the valvetrain with a soild roller cam, you use feeler guages to set a hot or cold lash, no more preload or 1/2" turn on the lifters. For a street car that see's a lot of miles a Hyd cam is a better choice, and even a nice aggressive hyd cam is easier on the springs and valvetrain then a healthy soild roller, especially that one in your above post.
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