Explorer 302 With A9l And No Tune

Overkill302YJ

New Member
Jan 30, 2016
9
0
1
Hey guys. I got a cherry condition 2001 302 from an explorer that was babied. I need your expertise to help me get this running with an A9L without anyy issues.

I have an A9L I want to run with this so it is a stand alone engine from the vehicle. Already have the correct harness. I am trying to figure out what I need to do to revert this 01' 302 to run with the A9L without tuning it. Trying to get it running as well as possible without a tune. This vehicle is a toy. I have 19# injectors, Explorer cobra intake, GT40p heads, BBK shorty headers, and am welding a flowmaster Hpipe exhaust. Reverting it to a distributor, and I am keeping the EGR for lower head temps. This is all getting dropped in a Jeep, but is a swap I know a lot of Mustang guys do putting an 01 in with their A9L. This is the forum I have been browsing and finding the most for info for this swap, so I figured I would post here.

I picked this motor specifically because of its truck cam, heads, and awesome condition. Low end torque is what Im after, not high revs. I do not want to have to have this A9L tuned unless I have no choice. Even if that means running lower performance parts. Reason being, even this motor toned down will beat the hell out of the 4.0 6cyl for turque, and future upgrade options. I can slowly start upgrading stuff with other parts I have later on one by one to see what may cause issues once I have this running solid., but to start, I just want it running and reliable. Not rich, or lean, I would like to get it just right. I am guessing I will have to use a Mustang MAF, or can I put the mustang sensor in the larger explorer MAF housing? I am converting it to a distributor as well. Wasnt sure about throttle body, TB senors like IAC and TPS working with the larger throttle body if I just stick ones from a mustang in the larger housing. Fan I am going mechanical because mud/water submersion has killed every electric fan I ever put in a Jeep very very fast.

Another thing throwing a monkey wrench in all this is that I have the entire ford fuel injection website ripped to PDF files. I know what pin outs are on all the different sensors and things, but it does not specify anything about using OBD2 sensors, with only the EEC IV pins hooked up. It seems on most OBD2 sensors, they have the same exact stuff as earlier sensors, with some extra pins for extra info for OBD2. Because I have every pin out digram, I was not sure if I could use existing sensors when I wire up my harness from scratch and just ignore the pins that have OBD2 info the A9L doesnt need..

This is all going into a 95 Jeep YJ with a Dana 44 front axle from a Classic Bronco, Explorer 8.8 rear (hoping to use the VSS output on that 8.8 for my EEC since I have a stick) NP435 trans, NP205 Tranfer Case cable speedo is going to dash gauge, and thats pretty much it. Meat and potatoes hookup I hope to make as reliable as possible since I put this Jeep through hell and is the third time I am building it, first time with 302 though. I was not sure if the earlier mustang 8.8's with an A9L used the same carrier sensor for the VSS I could drop in this late model version with the disk brakes, or if I should just try to wire the VSS output to the A9L using only the VSS output from the differential that is for OBD2, and ignoring the ABS pins.

I know this all might sound over complicated, but the most info I found on this setup has been browsing this forum. I am really hoping you guys will ignore the fact I have a Jeep, and just focus on helping me getting this motor to run completely separate from the rest of the Jeep. It may be easy, may be a challenge to figure it out. I assume if I use the stock foxbody MAF with my cobra intake I will not need a tune, but will be restricting the airflow which is why I wasnt sure if I put the sensor in the larger housing if it would work or not since it would think it is in the smaller housing.

Some engines in the past I have been able to change things like throttle bodies, injectors, and just gained the extra power without a tune. Those were also EEC IV. I do NOT want to go OBD2 on this. I would if I could drop $1k on a custom unit I could tune myself, but I dont have that cash to throw at this build right now with all the other stuff I've been buying. Im actually an IT Tech, so wiring and things arent bad. Its really figuring out what to use on this block since it is still on a stand. I do not want to drop it in, just to crank it and have it running like crap.

Thanks for any help you can offer. Sorry for the long post, but I have been spending a year aquiring parts, and am about to paint the block, and swap whatever sensors I need to revert this back to a foxbody motor.
 
  • Sponsors (?)


No car exists. They are GT40p's also which are a little different. I figured I have a higher flowing intake, but as long as I use the correct MAF configuration for the A9L, it will know how much air is being consumed anyway, so it would adjust. I am not sure though what the limits are with an A9L MAF cange without needing it tuned. I know a lot of people change the stock setups, just not sure how far ou can go without a tune. For example, I have 19# injectors, I know if I put on 30lb it would need a tune. At the same time, I figure O2 sensors should know if it is rich or lean no matter what I put on and adjust accordingly.

I want to get as much out of it as I can, without messing with the EEC. At the same time, if I can get a large performance increase, and just use this off ebay, maybe its worth the $250. Thats about what I would end up spending for the stock 302 intake anyway.

Read the entire post and you will understand.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/SCT-4-tune-...ash=item51d840c6cf:g:PFEAAOSwEetV~QD2&vxp=mtr
 
The engine will run fine with an A9L and no tune, and 19 lb. injectors.

Swapping the MAF sensors between different MAFs is a big no no. The MAF body and sensor are designed to match each other. Therefore you can't swap sensors between different part number MAF bodies and maintain proper calibration. The assembly is designed to match the computer’s internal program, and swapping a different MAF can upset the computer's calibration.

The OEM Ford MAFs are not calibrated to injector size. The injector sizing is done in the computer’s internal programming. Aftermarket MAF’s “lie” to the computer in an attempt to fool the computer into changing the injector pulse on timing to match the increased airflow.

The exception to the above statements is if you have an aftermarket tuner system such as Moates Quarterhorse, Tweecer, or similar device. Then you can alter the computer's MAF transfer function table to match whatever MAF housing and sensor you have. The tuner device works in conjunction with a high quality Air/Fuel ratio meter so that you can tell what sort of air/fuel mixture you have a any given time.

The only other MAF that is a one for one swap for a 93 and earlier 5.0 Mustang is the 94-95 Mustang MAF.

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2

Once your replacement 70MM MAF is in place, disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes. When you reconnect the battery and start the engine, the computer will relearn the settings for the new MAF.

*1.) Metal flange adapter http://www.kustomz.com/cat3.html Buy the TR70 for $44.95. Or spend some time on eBay looking for one that may fit.

*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. You should be able to ignore it and have everything work good.
 
You do not need any tuning done, unless you change the injector size and use the stock maf. What you are trying to do is so vanilla that the ecu will just compensate. This type of build has been done many many times with good reaults.

DON'T THROW YOUR MONEY AWAY ON THE CHIP!
 
The engine will run fine with an A9L and no tune, and 19 lb. injectors.

Swapping the MAF sensors between different MAFs is a big no no. The MAF body and sensor are designed to match each other. Therefore you can't swap sensors between different part number MAF bodies and maintain proper calibration. The assembly is designed to match the computer’s internal program, and swapping a different MAF can upset the computer's calibration.

The OEM Ford MAFs are not calibrated to injector size. The injector sizing is done in the computer’s internal programming. Aftermarket MAF’s “lie” to the computer in an attempt to fool the computer into changing the injector pulse on timing to match the increased airflow.

The exception to the above statements is if you have an aftermarket tuner system such as Moates Quarterhorse, Tweecer, or similar device. Then you can alter the computer's MAF transfer function table to match whatever MAF housing and sensor you have. The tuner device works in conjunction with a high quality Air/Fuel ratio meter so that you can tell what sort of air/fuel mixture you have a any given time.

The only other MAF that is a one for one swap for a 93 and earlier 5.0 Mustang is the 94-95 Mustang MAF.

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. It uses a slip on duct on the side that goes to the throttle body and a 4 bolt flange on the other. You need a flange adapter to fit the stock slip on air ducting that goes to the air box. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1 *2

Once your replacement 70MM MAF is in place, disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes. When you reconnect the battery and start the engine, the computer will relearn the settings for the new MAF.

*1.) Metal flange adapter http://www.kustomz.com/cat3.html Buy the TR70 for $44.95. Or spend some time on eBay looking for one that may fit.

*2.) MAF & sensor interchange
The 94-95 Mustang 5.0 MAF & sensor is also found on:
1995-94 Mustang 3.8L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Crown Victoria 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1995-94 Mustang, Mustang Cobra 5.0L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Town Car 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
1994-92 Grand Marquis 4.6L F2VF-12B579-A2A,
Evidently the –A1A, -A2A, AA, etc. on the end of the part number is a minor variant that did not change the operating specs. You should be able to ignore it and have everything work good.

THANK YOU. That explains a lot. I the past, in have been able to change sensors in housings on other vehicles, research was turning up conflicts with the A9L if I did this. That is what was tripping me up. I was also going to run larger injectors from the start, but I definitely do not NEED to. Stable solid build is the goal. I needed to know before I go wiring things what is going to work with what. Once its solid, then I will dyno and go for more low end torque.

So I guess I will be getting the 70mm MAF since I have the Cobra intake, and am not trying to restrict it in any way unless I have no choice. I knew this EEC could do it, I just could not find anyone who had done exactly what I am looking to, and I did not want to damage this motor in any way because of not asking simple questions. I tore it apart, and it is beautiful inside with the crosshatching still looking new. Only thing Im doing is oil pump, water pump, T stat, and other basic stuff.

One question though. Any info on the VSS input from the explorer 8.8? I saw the cable to VSS adapter for stangs with Cruise, but was not sure if it will fit my NP205. Basically, it goes into the Trans (in my case transfer case), then the cable plugs into that piece which provides the electronic speed output. Ideally, my 205 would just be the cable to the speedometer. I would prefer the VSS signal from the axle, since I am running wiring there anyway. Also, sensor in the axle looks like it will take much more abuse then the thing I saw to put in my transfer case for $30.

I know some people say these run fine without VSS signals, but I have read a lot of issues with stick shifts stalling when coming to a stop. Apparently the vehicle's EEC needs to know you're moving to maintain the correct RPM's for smooth shifting. I had this problem on Jeep engines a couple of times and it sucked. Was like my engine was hicupping for lack of a better way to put it. Didnt seem the IAC was letting it breath as much as it should when my foot was off the gas, and I was rolling in gear. New VSS fixed that more than once, and none of those vehicles came with cruise. Stalling at low speeds may not be a big deal on the street, but rock crawling in a creek, it could cause me to roll. So if you could tell me the easiest way to get VSS without GPS, please let me know. GPS is not accurate enough for me to use going 1-5 MPH on the rocks. And I'm not running a mechanical fan, so I do not need the signal for that at all.

Thanks again for the detailed response. Thats exactly what I was looking for. Now I just need to figure out the VSS. Im open to other ways to get it other than the axle or adapter also. Maybe another option I have not heard of.
 
Not sure if the Jeep has a vss? If it does just wire into the one you have. The ecu is just looking for a signal. I ran mine without the vss with no issues.

On a side note, pm me if you need/want larger injectors maf and chip. At your current level they are completely unnecessary, but will support any future mods.
 
I just ordered the 70mm MAF. Thanks for the part numbers. Because you took the time to include those and mentioned I could ignore the A1A at the end, I just got a 70mm with the sensor for $35 and free shipping! The adapter I was not sure if I need or not since I have the entire intake setup for the explorer with the flex hose that has a larger MAF already. So I am guessing this will fit. I also fabricate stuff, but am running a snorkel/cold air intake and plan on using the flexible hose from the Explorer anyway that the MAF was on to hook it up. I know its turbulent, but I will smooth it out later on with a custom welded one.

I forgot to ask if anyone has suggestions on a good external fuel pump? Im fabricating a skid plate for a fuel cell I just bought, and need to run an external fuel pump. I would like it to handle up to 30lb injectors. Not for this motor, but after this 302 is in and running I am putting a 351 Windsor shortblock on my stand to build a 393 stroker. Hope to finish that in a year or two and bolt it right up to my drivetrain. For 50lbs more, I figure its well worth it. So ideally, something that could handle both motors. Noise is no issue. Reliability is more important than anything Whatever you guys think can supply good pressure, is reliable, and can take lots of mud and water without failing please let me know.

I have never run an external fuel pump before, so I honestly have no idea what brands are good in this area, and do not want to overspend. From what I have read, I will need to include it in my skid plate design since they cannot be higher that the bottom of the tank? Maybe I read that wrong? Either way, whatever you guys suggest I will probably buy, then follow the manufacturers directions for placement.
 
Not sure if the Jeep has a vss? If it does just wire into the one you have. The ecu is just looking for a signal. I ran mine without the vss with no issues.

On a side note, pm me if you need/want larger injectors maf and chip. At your current level they are completely unnecessary, but will support any future mods.
The Jeep's VSS was on the stock Transfercase I got rid of. I have an NP205 out of an old F250. I plan on running a flat dash with a Classic Bronco, or maybe mustang Speedometer, which is why I will be using a cable driven speedo. Havent decided yet which ones I want. I got the Married NP435/205 "Big Bearing" combo so I wont have to worry about breaking anything. I was told the 205 uses the same exact cable and gear the mustangs use, so I could use the sensor they made for cruise. I just cant figure out how to confirm they are the same. Also, the sensor I was directed to looks cheap, and like I would be buying them every few trips offroad since the entire thing is completely exposed. Also, the manufacturer only lists it for mustangs with cruise.

Wierd thing is, everything I found on the A9L says if you have an automatic, no VSS need to be wired unless you want cruise, but if you have a stick, wire the VSS, or it will act funny like I explained earlier.
 
Check out Novak.com and hit up Ibuildembig over at wranglerforum.com, he's done several explorer swaps into his jeeps. All in all this is a common swap. Plenty of tech support out there.
 
I just ordered the 70mm MAF. Thanks for the part numbers. Because you took the time to include those and mentioned I could ignore the A1A at the end, I just got a 70mm with the sensor for $35 and free shipping! The adapter I was not sure if I need or not since I have the entire intake setup for the explorer with the flex hose that has a larger MAF already. So I am guessing this will fit. I also fabricate stuff, but am running a snorkel/cold air intake and plan on using the flexible hose from the Explorer anyway that the MAF was on to hook it up. I know its turbulent, but I will smooth it out later on with a custom welded one.

I forgot to ask if anyone has suggestions on a good external fuel pump? Im fabricating a skid plate for a fuel cell I just bought, and need to run an external fuel pump. I would like it to handle up to 30lb injectors. Not for this motor, but after this 302 is in and running I am putting a 351 Windsor shortblock on my stand to build a 393 stroker. Hope to finish that in a year or two and bolt it right up to my drivetrain. For 50lbs more, I figure its well worth it. So ideally, something that could handle both motors. Noise is no issue. Reliability is more important than anything Whatever you guys think can supply good pressure, is reliable, and can take lots of mud and water without failing please let me know.

I have never run an external fuel pump before, so I honestly have no idea what brands are good in this area, and do not want to overspend. From what I have read, I will need to include it in my skid plate design since they cannot be higher that the bottom of the tank? Maybe I read that wrong? Either way, whatever you guys suggest I will probably buy, then follow the manufacturers directions for placement.
Go to your favorite local parts store and ask them what the VSS part numbers are for the transfer case you have and a 89-93 Mustang. Simple enough.

Or see www.rockauto.com online parts catalog and see for yourself.
 
Check out Novak.com and hit up Ibuildembig over at wranglerforum.com, he's done several explorer swaps into his jeeps. All in all this is a common swap. Plenty of tech support out there.


LOL! I didn't get this far being a newb. I spoke with him years ago back in maybe 2011 2012 when I ran into a problem on a build I was doing with a spring over and he PMed me to give him a call. According to "IBuildEmBig", you can defy the laws of physics when it comes to non-CV driveshaft angles and go like 30+ degrees on a 1310 ujoint, and you wont even get a vibration! Guys over there are good if you want to know maybe what brand SYE will swap into your TC or something. I stopped using that site years ago. Besides, what I am asking is in no way a proprietary Jeep question. That is the stuff I know the best and rip apart rebuild/lift all I want.

This is 100% proprietary A9L/302/FORD info. I think whats confusing to car people is the entire Transfer Case part of a 4x4 vehicle. Thats what I mean by stand alone engine. Unless this motor is plugging into something from ford, Im not using it unless I have no choice. Like I said, even my axles are Ford. My Jeep I tore down to a shell. Was in show quality and offroaded great, but I needed/wanted more power, which led to new axles, and new EVERYTHING else right down to the fuel tank. The only Jeep parts left are the tub and frame. Since I do a lot of welding, making it all come together is the easy part. Motor mounts are already in, skid it fitted. I own a full service shop and really only do Jeep work, or Ford work. Mainly frame rot and lifts, axle swaps, engine swaps, that kind of stuff for other people. Ford for my own stuff. MKZ and F150.

I finally created a handle on here because I was browsing Google and this site came up repeatedly. I kept finding close to what I need, but not the details of the sensors. For example, like I said, I have almost every single pin out diagram related to a ford 5.0 in any way from air setups through the OBD2 on the explorer. I bought a fully dressed 2001 5.0. My diagrams shows how to hook up OBD2 stuff on EEC IV since they usually supply the same info on a couple pins as the old sensors, then have extra pins for addition OBD2 info that you should not hook up or it will crap the bed. Only thing is, FordFuel Injection, and no one else documents doing any of this in the real world. I do not know why others could not get this to work, or if they were using the wrong wires. I can post some images of these pin outs, but anyone here who knows the old FordFuelInjection site knows what I have since I ripped the entire site to PDF files. Of course I have my Windsor books too.

If you read this, I have not asked a single Jeep specific question. All Ford. Nothing that says Jeep on it is making this thing go down the road. This is all Mustang A9L info on a newer 302, so I can get reliable torque out of this. Only monkey wrench is the TC, which I can figure out on my own. Like I said, when you have every single sensor pin out diagram, all the sensors from the 01, and think you need to revert everything back to the early 90's, its good to double check before dropping the $300+ just on sensors. I also have both the explorer and Mustang harnesses.

For the fuel pump, I will probably run a double external setup with a low pressure and high pressure with a reservoir in between. That is a common track setup, or rock crawler setup.

As far as forums. If you want to go this custom and get into offroad specific stuff, Pirate 4x4 is much better than the Jeep forums. Even for Jeeps. The Jeep forums are questions like, what size tires will blow up my axle? How do I install a snorkel? Look at my spraypaint paint job! I swear half the guys on there are 15 years old with a rotted out jeep in their yard they want to get running. Then they try to answer technical threads out of there asses. Stupid easy stuff. Pirate 4x4 is where its at, but only has a handfull of Ford specific guys. Seems mustang guys are the biggest buyers of these Explorer blocks for use with A9L. A lot of offroad guys love carb setups, I hate them because of long hill climbs and deep water. You on this site beat the crap out of your vehicles for the most part. So if you guys agree on something, I feel much happier going that way with whatever part it is before I drop it in rather then troublshooting an engine after its hooked up.

So get past the entire Jeep part of this. If I went over there, the first thing I would get told is to go to the Mustang forums. Stand alone 302 is all I am doing, and would like the VSS if possible. I do not expect you guys to know TC's, but I figured I would ask.
 
Go to your favorite local parts store and ask them what the VSS part numbers are for the transfer case you have and a 89-93 Mustang. Simple enough.

Or see www.rockauto.com online parts catalog and see for yourself.

NP435 does not have a speedometer output of any form. It is a married Transfercase cable driven setup and the cable comes out of the TC. I picked it for the 6.8:1 1st gear, and unbreakable reputation behind even the most built V8's on the trails. Only version of this TC that ever had an electronic VSS was a 91 Dodge crew cab pickup with a different tailcone. If you can even find the tailcone, guys want like $600+ for them. And good luck finding them in a yard. I will be looking again this next week though if the snow melts enough for me to start climbing under the trucks at the yard again.
 
LOL! I didn't get this far being a newb. I spoke with him years ago back in maybe 2011 2012 when I ran into a problem on a build I was doing with a spring over and he PMed me to give him a call. According to "IBuildEmBig", you can defy the laws of physics when it comes to non-CV driveshaft angles and go like 30+ degrees on a 1310 ujoint, and you wont even get a vibration! Guys over there are good if you want to know maybe what brand SYE will swap into your TC or something. I stopped using that site years ago. Besides, what I am asking is in no way a proprietary Jeep question. That is the stuff I know the best and rip apart rebuild/lift all I want.

This is 100% proprietary A9L/302/FORD info. I think whats confusing to car people is the entire Transfer Case part of a 4x4 vehicle. Thats what I mean by stand alone engine. Unless this motor is plugging into something from ford, Im not using it unless I have no choice. Like I said, even my axles are Ford. My Jeep I tore down to a shell. Was in show quality and offroaded great, but I needed/wanted more power, which led to new axles, and new EVERYTHING else right down to the fuel tank. The only Jeep parts left are the tub and frame. Since I do a lot of welding, making it all come together is the easy part. Motor mounts are already in, skid it fitted. I own a full service shop and really only do Jeep work, or Ford work. Mainly frame rot and lifts, axle swaps, engine swaps, that kind of stuff for other people. Ford for my own stuff. MKZ and F150.

I finally created a handle on here because I was browsing Google and this site came up repeatedly. I kept finding close to what I need, but not the details of the sensors. For example, like I said, I have almost every single pin out diagram related to a ford 5.0 in any way from air setups through the OBD2 on the explorer. I bought a fully dressed 2001 5.0. My diagrams shows how to hook up OBD2 stuff on EEC IV since they usually supply the same info on a couple pins as the old sensors, then have extra pins for addition OBD2 info that you should not hook up or it will crap the bed. Only thing is, FordFuel Injection, and no one else documents doing any of this in the real world. I do not know why others could not get this to work, or if they were using the wrong wires. I can post some images of these pin outs, but anyone here who knows the old FordFuelInjection site knows what I have since I ripped the entire site to PDF files. Of course I have my Windsor books too.

If you read this, I have not asked a single Jeep specific question. All Ford. Nothing that says Jeep on it is making this thing go down the road. This is all Mustang A9L info on a newer 302, so I can get reliable torque out of this. Only monkey wrench is the TC, which I can figure out on my own. Like I said, when you have every single sensor pin out diagram, all the sensors from the 01, and think you need to revert everything back to the early 90's, its good to double check before dropping the $300+ just on sensors. I also have both the explorer and Mustang harnesses.

For the fuel pump, I will probably run a double external setup with a low pressure and high pressure with a reservoir in between. That is a common track setup, or rock crawler setup.

As far as forums. If you want to go this custom and get into offroad specific stuff, Pirate 4x4 is much better than the Jeep forums. Even for Jeeps. The Jeep forums are questions like, what size tires will blow up my axle? How do I install a snorkel? Look at my spraypaint paint job! I swear half the guys on there are 15 years old with a rotted out jeep in their yard they want to get running. Then they try to answer technical threads out of there asses. Stupid easy stuff. Pirate 4x4 is where its at, but only has a handfull of Ford specific guys. Seems mustang guys are the biggest buyers of these Explorer blocks for use with A9L. A lot of offroad guys love carb setups, I hate them because of long hill climbs and deep water. You on this site beat the crap out of your vehicles for the most part. So if you guys agree on something, I feel much happier going that way with whatever part it is before I drop it in rather then troublshooting an engine after its hooked up.

So get past the entire Jeep part of this. If I went over there, the first thing I would get told is to go to the Mustang forums. Stand alone 302 is all I am doing, and would like the VSS if possible. I do not expect you guys to know TC's, but I figured I would ask.
Rather winded response for I've already done that. As far as the vss signal the eec will run without it, some cars report stumbling coming to a stop and it will.their a cel, but it's by no means a roadblock. Feel free to wire the vehicle and get it running until you come across a solution.
 
The common thing with the vehicles having issues are they are stick. I checked out the official wiring pin out for the A9L. It specifically says with auto, no VSS, needed, with stick, must wire VSS, even if no cruise. Also, at idle my Jeep is usually under higher loads due to the winch drawing power which kicks my alternator into full output mode.

Here are a couple things to explain better. And yes I am long winded. When I ask questions on forums, I usually get questions I should have just included, so I learned over the years to lay it all out as much as I can from the start. Either that, or people assume I have things like transmission speed outputs, which I have never seen on a 4x4 personally.

Here is Ford Fuel Injections Info on the VSS. May or may not work with my NP205.

A9L VSS Use.png
A9L VSS NP205.jpg

Above here is the picture of the adapter I heard "may" fit my NP205. For $30 I will try it if its determined the 8.8 absolutely wont work.
8.8 ABS-VSS Sensor Pic.jpg

Above here is a pic of the explorer 8.8 ABS/VSS sensor. This supposedly has an identical signal output as the VSS using the tone ring that is on the carrier. I already have this, so if I can use it, much easier, and I can include it with the wire run to the back of the vehicle. No one can confirm though. I was not sure if there is an EEC IV version of this sensor from another vehicle I can stick in my late model 8.8, or if I can just use the ground and the pulse output since I dont need accurate speed to the EEC, just speed in general so it knows I'm moving. I have repeatedly heard the pulses generated are the same on all OBD2 @ 8k pulses per mile. If that is also true with the EEC IV, then this should work fine right?

Thats whats annoying. This seems simple enough, but since I'm wiring everything in the back with the body off the frame, I do not want to waste time hooking this up if it wont do the job.
 
Figured I might as well throw in a few pics of what this is going in. I think these are the cleanest pics I have. Thats on 33's. Not enough power for the highway with the 7" lift when driving through the mountains. A V8 made more sense than a regear.

20140510_180807.jpg
20140510_180830.jpg
20140510_181230-2.jpg


Thats the cleanest it ever was BTW. Just flex testing with my lift after the last drivetrain rebuild I did before tearing it apart again.