Explorer Intake done - hmmmmm

95GTeee

New Member
Mar 9, 2004
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Western CT
Finally got my Explorer intake installed and running. It runs strong. I am fairly pleased with the swap, but ... it seems to be missing something.

I have the standard BBK CAI, Pulleys, Off road H-pipe, Flowmaster Force II's, Recent tune-up, 65mm FMS TB, FMS 3.55's, STOCK MAF, STOCK Injectors, STOCK fuel pump and Regulator, STOCK heads, STOCK headers, STOCK chip ... I ported and gasket matched the explorer upper and lower - a lot! Its a smooth clean job and the adapter is a Trick Flow 75mm. I ported the opening of the Explorer to 75mm to match, and I beveled the rear of the 65mm TB to open up to a 75mm.

Did I make this thing TOO free flowing for my set-up? I am trying to keep this thing in the budget daily driver class - so I am not considering heads or a cam even. Am I creating a lean condition? Would a larger fuel pump and Adj. fuel pressure regulator, larger injectors, and larger MAF fix it? Are the stock headers choking it? It just seems to have a lot of potential, but something's missing! Also ... I know I re-installed the distributor correctly, but does the timing get re-set after being unplugged for a couple days? I was running around 11* before the swap. I don't have a timing light to check it - so if it does - let me know. I only drove the thing for about 5-10 minutes so far ... does it take longer for the computer to re-learn the manifold?

Sorry for all the questions ... just seems no one around me has a clue that this swap even existed. HA! Am I missing something stupid? All the hoses are hooked up and correct. Help me out!!
 
Something's missing ... like it's not using the full potential of the engine, like it's choked up or something - not like the engine is "missing". Yea, kinda like when an engine is too retard in timing. I'll check it tomorrow.

I am just looking for all possible things to troubleshoot. I figured you guys would have a bunch of ideas on what could be causing it - instead of me going out and blowing a ton of cash on unneccesary parts. Keep the ideas coming! Thanks!!
 
When you install an aftermarket intake manifold, you lean the motor out slightly. The computer takes 50-100 miles to relearn the new parameters and the car will run progressively better until the computer has gotten used to the new settings.

An aftermarket MAF will help tremendously. An adjustable FPR is always a help, that way you can always see what your pressure is set at and can be adjusted in a matter of seconds.

Check the timing and reset it if necessary. Check the plugs and see if it's running pig rich. Drive the car for a few days and see if the computer relearns anything and if the car becomes stronger. If it still runs like chit by Saturday or Sunday, then something is up.

Joe
 
stunner6910 said:
what i meant to say is would bigger injectors also help or would they be useless. i'm concerned since i'm doing mine next week

you dont need bigger injectors right now the 19's are fine for what you have done to the car so far, once you reach 300 RWHP then you can upgrade
 
timing if all you did was mark the dist., and then put it back on the marks it could be way off. I would check all the vacuum lines, but yeah it will take a couple of days to relearn all the new airflows #s so to speak.


jaso
 
OK ... so after a day of driving around with it, I have to say ... it seems to run better and better after each 10 miles or so. Now it pulls REALLY nice from about 2300-5500! REALLY strong. It seems to be a nice linear powerband now. While I was at the head, I also cleaned out the intake runners. All in all, it seems to be much smoother and a NICE difference in power. The tone of the exhaust seems to have changed too. More mellow. The idle changed a little too ... almost like a healthy cam. I am much happier with the swap now that the computer seems to have "dialed in" and learned the mods. SO smooth!

What size MAF should I go with? I know you want to build a velocity type situation, so I was thinking 77mm or 80mm. What brands should I go with?

I do have a couple of pics with the head side showing ... How can I make the pics show up, instead of having you guys click on the link? There is a little glare. They are perfectly rectangled, beveled and smooth, even though they don't really look it. This is also before being cleaned. Oh well ... here they are.
 
Joes95GT said:
When you install an aftermarket intake manifold, you lean the motor out slightly. The computer takes 50-100 miles to relearn the new parameters and the car will run progressively better until the computer has gotten used to the new settings.

An aftermarket MAF will help tremendously. An adjustable FPR is always a help, that way you can always see what your pressure is set at and can be adjusted in a matter of seconds.

Check the timing and reset it if necessary. Check the plugs and see if it's running pig rich. Drive the car for a few days and see if the computer relearns anything and if the car becomes stronger. If it still runs like chit by Saturday or Sunday, then something is up.

Joe

why do you think an aftermarket MAF will help tremendously?? Im curious as to why you say that
 
17yrOldStanger said:
why do you think an aftermarket MAF will help tremendously?? Im curious as to why you say that
With exception to the stock air box, our stock MAF is the biggest bottleneck in the intake tract.

The C&L kit was the first thing I did to my car and the SOTP gains were great. The car pulled harder down low and up top. I also picked up another 200 RPM of useful power just from the kit. For the 280 bucks I paid, it was well worth it.

Joe
 
The only choices you have are Pro-M or C&L.

I keep my opinion reserved because once again, it's not what anyone wants to hear, and often contradicts what most internet racers think. :rolleyes:

There is more reading on here than you have spare time comparing the C&L and Pro-M units. Search away...

Joe