Explorer or Ranger??

[65straightsick]

I heard first about using the explorer rear end, then I heard others in another forum discussing using the ranger rear end, which is better for my application? Better yet, which would go under a 65 easier...?

 

[LMan]

an 8" would be the easiest, since it was made for your car. The 8.8" will require you to cut off some metal and weld spring plates in, among other issues.

8" rears are about as hard to find as a tabloid article on Paris Hilton

 

[96 DOHC Cobra]

I wouldn't bother with the Ranger 8.8. It would need the same amount of work as an Explorer rear but not ususally as good a starting point. Most Ranger 8.8s only have 3.08 gears, no traction lok, and all are 28 spline. The Explorers are all 31 spline. Most have 3.73s and traction lok. 8" rears aren't hard to find, but good gears and traction loks for these are scarce and expensive. A "DONE" 8" won't be as strong as a good 8.8 will.

 

[65straightsick]

Well how much will the machine work on the explorer rear be? I don't think buying it will cost me too much if I do my homework but i am more interested in how much money it will cost for a machine shop to cut it down so it will bolt in. Thanks

 

[96 DOHC Cobra]

Well how much will the machine work on the explorer rear be? I don't think buying it will cost me too much if I do my homework but i am more interested in how much money it will cost for a machine shop to cut it down so it will bolt in. Thanks

I don't know what machine work costs in your are, but here is the easiest and cheapest way to get the Explorer rear to fit into a 65-66 Mustang.

Get the long side of the housing cut to match the short side (use the same axle on both sides). Then, buy a second short side axle. This would leave the rear with an overall width of 56 1/2." The stock 65-66 Mustang rear is 57 1/4" overall. The 8.8 will be 3/8" shorter per side than the stock rear. You can make that up with spacers, use wider tires, or whatever.
There are only two other things you need to do to bolt the 8.8 into your 65-66. Weld in the spring perches, and modify your driveshaft.
There are other ways to get this done and have a stronger rear, but the expense goes up alot as well.

 

[65straightsick]

Is that an either or situation? Can I just weld in the spring perches and use spacers or is newer axles a must have? How much are new axles?

 

[96 DOHC Cobra]

The shortening on one side on the housing and the welding spring perches are a must. New axles are not.

 

[65straightsick]

That is what I needed to hear........so shorten one side, put in spring perches and bolt er' in? That seems easier said than done but I will try to get things lined up to do this project, thanks 96 DOHC Cobra for the info, it is much appreciated.

 

[LMan]

why do this instead of a 8" rear that's a drop-in? Edumucate me here

 

[D.Hearne]

I had an Explorer rear narrowed for my Ranger last year. Bought the rear for $100. Had 31 splined axles, 3.73's w/trac-loc. Had it narrowed both sides to 52" axle to axle. New Strange axles, Summit rear cover girdle, 9" axle ends ( to eliminate the C clips) Cost me $700 altogether.

 

[96 DOHC Cobra]

why do this instead of a 8" rear that's a drop-in? Edumucate me here

Because the parts are easier to find and alot cheaper.

 

[65straightsick]

You got it, see i could very easily buy an 8 inch, but the gearing would be out of whack and they wouldn't have DB's most likely, with the explorer, i get the gearing I need and the DB's that i want, the machine work is just one obstacle but the result will be worth it once I get some shiny new TTII's....