Fuel Factory Flexible Fuel Line

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As long as you or the past owners have not kinked them and jacked them around they seem to have a long life. If you need to replace them you can use high pressure hose and clamps but personally I think it looks terrible. This is the hose that is currently on there:


You cut the old line off with a razor blade but you do not pust on the blade so hard you score the fitting. Just enough to get a cut started then just score the plastic line. Use plyers to grabe where the cut is started and pull on it so it rips right down the scored line. To get the new line on the fitting you dip the nylon line in boiling water for 60-90 seconds then push it over the barb. When it cools it shrinks to the fitting and you are done. Make certain you've got things aligned right the first time. Some have had to start the heated up nylon line over the fitting then have someone slowly and very carefully pour boiling water over the line to get it to go all the way on. Most do not have to do this but I have read a couple of times where they did this.
 
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Thanks AeroCoupe! I am the original owner and the only time the fuel rails & hoses were removed was when the engine was rebuilt and I don't recall seeing any damage. I'll take a closer look when I get further along with the injector upgrade. Seems like I have seen some clamping systems similar to the factory one but I can't remember where? Used some specialized tools as I recall?
 
Not sure what you are referring to with regards to the specialized tools comment.

The connections between the fuel rails and hard extension lines and from them to the black plastic lines require air conditioning line tools to take apart.

No specialized tools are needed to replace the plastic fuel lines. Cut them with a razor knife to remove and then heat the ends of the new lines up in boiling water to install.

Did that answer your question?
 
I was referring to your comment about the high pressure hose and clamps looking terrible. I think I've seen a band/ring type of clamping system that was very clean looking but required some type of tool to effectively squeeze and lock the band in place. Wouldn't be necessary though with the replacement tubing in the link. Link and boiling water technique was very helpful by the way.
 
I've tried the hot water trick many times. It has never worked out well for me. I have used those little cv boot type clamps on them and they did not leak. The correct tool is listed under cv boot clamp pliers and has the part in the middle that flattens them out as the two sides tighten it together. The clamps themselves are available at most parts stores.

If the water is too hot the plastic will fold up and kink when you try to shove a fitting in them. Just something to be mindful of.

On my current car I used AN adapters from the fittings at the frame and at the fuel rail. This way you could use push lock hose or braided PFE hose.
 
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Here's a pic.

Screenshot_20230227_130656_Chrome.jpg


Here's what the hard line push on fittings look like. These would be for the fuel filter type lines. They have several sizes at summit or jeggs.

Screenshot_20230227_130817_Chrome.jpg