Factory Vert reinforcement plates and sub frame connectors

limp

wrap a little cheese around it and its a done
Oct 4, 2020
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Under my 83 Convertible this AM, removing the " factory reinforcement plates" to install new brake lines and probably wire wheel some areas and do some painting.... While removing the plates I thought " won't my new MM full length sub frame connectors fit where they are"... Read the install instructions and yep, they do....

Not sure I want to weld the factory plates to the car ( as per the MM instructions) and was actually wondering if anyone else had left them off when installing sub frame connectors?? Anyone have any thoughts about leaving them off when doing the sub frame connectors??
Thanks all.....
 
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Big concern is if I weld these on, instead of the bolt and rivet affair they are now, I will not be able to access brake and fuel lines.... I guess I can grind the welds off if need be.....
 
What's wrong with the "bolt and rivet affair" that they are now. You get the benefit of SFC's and the convenience of them being removable for servicing the car? Imo, you don't want to have grind welds off if there ends up being a reason you need to get in there in the future.
 
What's wrong with the "bolt and rivet affair" that they are now. You get the benefit of SFC's and the convenience of them being removable for servicing the car? Imo, you don't want to have grind welds off if there ends up being a reason you need to get in there in the future.
I haven't installed them yet, but my MM full length sub frame kit install instructions are saying the stock plates are welded in with the install of the kit.....
 
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Under my 83 Convertible this AM, removing the " factory reinforcement plates" to install new brake lines and probably wire wheel some areas and do some painting.... While removing the plates I thought " won't my new MM full length sub frame connectors fit where they are"... Read the install instructions and yep, they do....

Not sure I want to weld the factory plates to the car ( as per the MM instructions) and was actually wondering if anyone else had left them off when installing sub frame connectors?? Anyone have any thoughts about leaving them off when doing the sub frame connectors??
Thanks all.....
I am about to dobthe same thing on 88 vert. I was going to weld back on just for extra strength and put x brace back on if my new exhaust will allow. Few ppl said leave factory bracing off in doesnt do anything especially after subframe. But im going to do what mm recommended
 
I am about to dobthe same thing on 88 vert. I was going to weld back on just for extra strength and put x brace back on if my new exhaust will allow. Few ppl said leave factory bracing off in doesnt do anything especially after subframe. But im going to do what mm recommended
I agree with your comment.... BUT, I was under the car since and the rear ones cover up the emergency brake cables too.... NON accessible after welding these....
 
Here are some pictures of my front brace.... I had always thought that it was bent due to a " jacking" or 'Lift" event....... I was getting ready to straighten this with a BFH and it looks like a pretty nice bend for a wrong jacking point... I just went under the car and the other side ( not removed yet) has the same bend..
Has anyone else with these noticed this with their car???
Thanks...
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BAck again.....
Test fitting the sub frame connectors and the two " middle plates" on the MM connectors will not slide on to the car subframe. ( Pic attached)
Measured them and there is room if I bend them a bit wider. Not much needed just a CH or so...
Is this what everyone does? Seems as if I could set my jack under the area and they would just push up and on and be a snug fit..
Tell me about your install experience please....
thanks....
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What's wrong with the "bolt and rivet affair" that they are now. You get the benefit of SFC's and the convenience of them being removable for servicing the car? Imo, you don't want to have grind welds off if there ends up being a reason you need to get in there in the future.
The front supports are cut where they rivet on the bottom of the car frame.. This is so the connectors can sit flush on the car frame... Then you weld the front supports ( rears are different) to the side of the subframe/MM connectors.....
Forgive the late response, but I am now attempting the install of the MM Connectors..
 
I think i spread mine apart a bit, held in plate with jack and then clamped it shut and tack welded.

Test fit them fully first. I also had to tweak the bend in both bars in the middle using a hydraulic press. The instructions say this might be necessary. With my fronts seated properly, i had a 1/2" gap in the rear. Had to take out a little bend.
 
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I think i spread mine apart a bit, held in plate with jack and then clamped it shut and tack welded.

Test fit them fully first. I also had to tweak the bend in both bars in the middle using a hydraulic press. The instructions say this might be necessary. With my fronts seated properly, i had a 1/2" gap in the rear. Had to take out a little bend.
Thanks... First time working with these and I was under the car all morning fooling with the fit of the pass side, since I had to remove all of the new brake lines... Did I whine about that already? LOL...
What looks like a good centering point for the jack is inbetween the two welded pieces that bolt to the trans crossmember... I was teetering on those while checking the gap where the front sideplate is vs the middle sideplates, so if I jack the connector up tight to those two imperfections on the bottom of the sub frame, I will check my gap then and see what it looks like...
My fit looks good so far, we will see.....
Trying to decipher the MM instructions on the rear welding points........ More on that later....