Failed Emissions...Help.

congrats about the car, but regarding your problem, high CO and HC usually means you're running extremely rich, see what ur CO2, O2 and NOx levels are, if they are low, then yeah, ur running rich. check ur air, fuel filter, check O2 sensor operation if u can, maybe they're stuck rich. if you have a vacuum line broken it's best to get it replaced 'fore the test, that'll increase ur idle speed to some degree. I always use dielectgric grease, if that is any help. Good luck!:SNSign:

You're gonna hear this a lot but check for codes. There are simple code readers available at auto parts stores for 40 bucks and less. The readers come with instructions. After you get your codes come back and post them and most likely Mr. Rickter will help you out from there.

Do yourself a favor and call up VP racing fuels and find out who supplies Motorsport 103 fuel in your area. It was supposed to be a California emissions high performance gas that they came out with 6-7 years ago and it turned out to be a KILLER fuel for racing. I currently use it to bracket race my 1993 and have been using it for 6 years. It has been off the road for 6 years, but in 1998 when we still had emissions testing, I first used it just to pass emissions. The motor had 100,000 miles on it, I went through with an off road H-pipe, no cats, no smog pump and it passed. I then took it to the track and it has been in my tank ever since. It might cost you $7 a gallon, but if you can get through with no worries, it might be worth it.

How many miles on the car? As others said - pull the codes first and resolve anything that show up there. Given that you're so far off on both HC and NOx - you may have cats that have given up...

No, it just means it needs a tune up and a good cleaning out at the dragstrip. I passed with no cats, how can he not pass with bad cats?

Yes it is possible to pass with no cats.

I did it when I lived in West Palm Beach a few years back when they still had emissions, but the cats could be clogged and making the car run worse causing it to fail.

Ford actully has a recall of some sort for the cats on fox body stangs failing. you might want to look into that more.

JJ - The biggest challenge here is people trying to transfer what happened to them as a generalization that should apply in every other situation.

Passing emissions inspection often requires different things in different states, at different testing stations, even with different operators running the equipment. Add to that the state of tune of the engine, the shape it's in, how many miles are on it, how well it's been maintained, how it's modified -- and basically you have more variables than you can count which could allow for one car passing with no cats in one place, and another car not being able to pass with cats someplace else.

So - great that you got a sticker with no cats. I'm happy for you -- but, all you can conclude from that is - you guessed it - that you got a sticker with no cats. It's simply not predictive of what's gonna happen when someone else tries at a different location in a different car.

accidentprone86 said:

Ford actully has a recall of some sort for the cats on fox body stangs failing. you might want to look into that more.

Click to expand...

Say what? This is the first I've heard of it.

Make sure the EGR system is working; its sole purpose is to reduce NOx emissions. For the hydrocarbons, that could be a few things also. How many miles are on the engine? Does it use oil? We need to know your location too. Before you go and spend a hunk of cash on a code reader, get a cheap Haynes manual first. It will tell you how to easily get codes without a reader and it doubles as a manual .

My '89 GT had headers, a cat-back, stock cats, and an oil-using 175k engine and it passed right about in the middle ground(pretty damn good by CA standards).

Maybe this will help.

accidentprone86 said:

Ford actully has a recall of some sort for the cats on fox body stangs failing. you might want to look into that more.

Click to expand...

Yes they did. Depending on the year. I think it was on Pre 90 models IIRC.

You can give Ford your VIN and they can see if it needed the recall or if it has been done.

Nice looking ride there onefstsnake!

Looks like my old car.


Anyway, I would replace the O2 sensors if they are more than a couple of years old.

Yeah.

By 93 they had all the new converters on by then so no recall for you.

If it looks all original then I would buy some new Bosch O2's. They were aound $32-$39 a peice IICR from Autozone.

onefstsnake said:

IICR is a part #?

Also, the plastic lines behind the passenger shock mount... Are those
vacuum lines?

There are a few different colors, one goes to something on the intake..

Well one of the white ones is broken... How can I fix a plastic line???


BTW thanks for the help.

Click to expand...

How to pass emissions testing:

1.) Make sure all the emissions gear the car was made with is present and
connected up properly. That includes a working smog pump and cats.

2.) Make sure that you have fresh tune up with spark plugs, plug wires, cap,
rotor, fuel & air filters. An oil & filter change is a good idea while you are at it.

3.) Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper
clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for
years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/article...c-iv_codes.html

IF your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter
method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except
possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that
it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the
engine running when you ran the test.

Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2
digit codes and 3 digit codes.

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections,
see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153
for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or
so at AutoZone or Walmart.

Or for a nicer scanner see http://www.midwayautosupply.com/det...iption.asp?3829 – It has a 3
digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is
$33.

4.) Post the codes and get help to fix them. Don’t try to pass with codes not
fixed. Clearing the computer just temporarily removes them from memory, it
doesn’t fix the problem that caused the code to be set.

5.) Be sure to do the testing on a hot engine. Drive for 15-20 minutes prior to
taking the test to get operating temps up into the normal range. Do not shut
off the engine while waiting for your turn on the test machine. An engine up
to full operating temperature puts out fewer emissions.

The maze of colored snakes on the passenger side strut tower are the
vacuum lines that work the emissions gear. You patch plastic lines by splicing
in the proper size rubber hose between the broken parts.

The white line operates the EGR valve.

Diagram courtsey of Tmoss & Stang&2birds.
See http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/
for more good diagrams.

Here's a book that will get you started with how the Ford electronic engine control or "computer" works.

Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control 1988-1993 by Charles Probst :ISBN 0-8376-0301-3.

It's about $20 from Borders.com see http://www.amazon.com/ . Select boo...very good, and I found it to be very helpful.

the high NOx readings is from one of 2 things generally. increased combustion chamber temp/pressure usually caused by carbon deposits building up on the tops of the pistons. the second cause would be a faulty EGR vavle, the EGR reduces NOx emissions. what type of test did they do? is it a 2 speed ifle test or was it run on a dyno. if it was run on a dyno, having different rear end gears can increase emissions because you have to run the motor at a higher RPM in order to keep in the speed range.

i used to work at a smog ref station in CA so i know a TON about smog stuff, actually working to get my smog license. a lot of the above mentioned ideas are decent. definately make sure that there isnt too much fuel getting to the motor, check fuel pressure and check to make sure none of the fuel injectors are leaking.