fan speeds

chrismillion

20+ Year Stangneter :roc</strong><span class=
Mar 4, 2004
259
0
16
we'll after a long debate i finally decided to get a new radiator, but my cooling problems still exist. :bang: after i went on a test run in my 95 gt , i noticed that the cooling fan would'nt come on unless i had the air conditioner on. i know that the air conditioner causes overheating itself, so i cut it off and the low speed fan never kicked on even when the gauge reached A on NORMAL. is there a fuse or resistor that i can replace to eliminate this problem? i hope i don't have to get another fan after just getting a new radiator. please help!!
 
Go into the FAQ and do the high speed fan mod. It will allow you to run the fan on at anytime you want with the flick of a switch and it will drop your temp at least 10-20 degrees.
 
well after some extentsive searching i finally found my problem with my cooling issues. after installing a new radiator and that didn't work, i got a new ECT sensor from AutoZone for 16.99 plus tax, but don't forget your teflon tape to put on the threads to prevent leaking. the install was easy and now my fan comes on without hesitation when my temp rises. i'm glad that this worked! i didn't want to rig the fan up from the CCRM. my suggestion is to buy a ECT sensor if your low speed goes out on your fan, if that don't work try other methods second. the failure on the 94 and 95 models will set a code of 116, 117, or 118. i wish i knew that, but i don't have a diagnostic tool. you can check the resistance value of the coolant temperature while it is completely cold (50 to 65-degrees F =58,750 to 40,500 ohms). next, start the engine and warm it up until it reaches operating temperature. the resistance should be lower (180 to 220-degrees F=3,600 to 1,840 ohms). Note: Access to the coolant temperature sensor makes it difficult to position electrical probes on the terminals. if necessary, remove the sensor and perform the tests in a pan of heated water to simulate the conditions. if the resistance values on the sensor are correct, check the reference voltage from the PCM (Power Control Module) to the sensor. the reference voltage should be approximately 5.0 volts. Source: Haynes Repair Manual 1994-2000 Ford Mustang. i hoped this helps someone!
 
this why your car is running cool on the highway because the extra air is replacing your fan. its your ECT sensor. you spent that money really for nothing like i did.
 
chrismillion said:
well after some extentsive searching i finally found my problem with my cooling issues. after installing a new radiator and that didn't work, i got a new ECT sensor from AutoZone for 16.99 plus tax, but don't forget your teflon tape to put on the threads to prevent leaking. the install was easy and now my fan comes on without hesitation when my temp rises. i'm glad that this worked! i didn't want to rig the fan up from the CCRM. my suggestion is to buy a ECT sensor if your low speed goes out on your fan, if that don't work try other methods second. the failure on the 94 and 95 models will set a code of 116, 117, or 118. i wish i knew that, but i don't have a diagnostic tool. you can check the resistance value of the coolant temperature while it is completely cold (50 to 65-degrees F =58,750 to 40,500 ohms). next, start the engine and warm it up until it reaches operating temperature. the resistance should be lower (180 to 220-degrees F=3,600 to 1,840 ohms). Note: Access to the coolant temperature sensor makes it difficult to position electrical probes on the terminals. if necessary, remove the sensor and perform the tests in a pan of heated water to simulate the conditions. if the resistance values on the sensor are correct, check the reference voltage from the PCM (Power Control Module) to the sensor. the reference voltage should be approximately 5.0 volts. Source: Haynes Repair Manual 1994-2000 Ford Mustang. i hoped this helps someone!
this is why!