fast idle / computer problems

[danbot]

i just installed an e cam and replaced the heads on my car(just stock iron heads)

after getting it back together i had a hard time with an idle surge. after reading the idle surge thread i saw that many people have idle problems with the e cam, and i did the iab mod. i then had a fast idle(around 1500-2000) i tried setting the tps and i got .67 volts and the highest i could turn it was up to .75 volts ( i know that .98 is the goal)

i am also having problems with pulling codes. i tried jumping the connector with a wire and it didn't work. i figured i was doing something wrong so i just went out and picked up one of those code readers from autozone but still nothing. i hook it up, key the power on and then switch the reader on and all i hear is a click than the pump cycles again then nothing( i watched it for like 2 mins)

the car is also running really rich

this is my first time trying to diagnosing problems with fuel injection

i tried searching but couldn't find any thing like this

any help will be much appreciated

-dan

 

[vristang]

There are many others here who will be more helpful at trouble shooting your problem than me, but in the mean time I can help with the tps.

Sometimes you have to drill out the holes in the tps to get enough adjustability. Just don't get too carried away.

What is your fuel pressure at? I am assumig an afpr.

Good Luck
jason

 

[joel5.0]

The "can't access codes" situation....check the list of items to check in this fordfuelinjection.com article for that problem. Regarding the TPS check, I suggest not calibrating it yet, until you solve the codes access problem....a voltage/ground problem in the system might make setting the TPS now, a job that might need to be repeated again. LUK

 

[jrichker]

Use a DVM to check for 5 volts on the orange/white wire on the TPS. No 5
volts and you have wiring problems.

Note that all resistance tests must be done with power off. Measuring
resistance with a circuit powered on will give false readings and possibly
damage the meter.

Next check the resistance between the black/white wire on the TPS and
battery ground. You should see less than 1.5 ohms.

Computer will not go into diagnostic mode:

With the power off, measure the resistance between the computer test
ground (black/white wire) on the self test connector and battery ground. You
should see less than 1.5 ohms.

If that checks good, remove the passenger side kick panel and disconnect
the computer connector. There is a 10 MM bolt that holds it in place.
Measure the resistance between the STI computer self test connector
(red/white wire) and pin 48 on the computer main connector.

Diagram courtesy of Tmoss & Stang&2birds

See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) &
Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-95 wiring http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine

The following is a view from the computer side of the computer connector.

 

[danbot]

wow thanks for the info. i got the fast idle nailed down. i went back and reread the how to on the iab mod (i didnt disconnect the iab after modifying it) an just needed to grind it down a little bit more to raise the idle. the tps is set now also( i dont know what i was doing wrong)

i will look into the code issue tomorrow

 

[danbot]

the resistance between the computer test
ground and the battery ground was .4 ohms

the resistance between the STI connector
and pin 48 was .2 ohms

I tried self test again snd still nothing. Is this a computer problem or is there still something else to check

 

[jrichker]

the resistance between the computer test
ground and the battery ground was .4 ohms

the resistance between the STI connector
and pin 48 was .2 ohms

I tried self test again snd still nothing. Is this a computer problem or is there still something else to check

You got good readings, so your problem is not in the wiring. The only thing left is the computer itself.

 

[danbot]

sweet know were i can get an a9l cheep

thanks for the help by the way
you the man!!