Few questions on lowering...

95Mustang302

Member
Mar 30, 2005
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Before you tell me to, yes I have searched.

So I just bought a set of tokico shocks and struts, and a set of bbk progressives. I know I should buy some c/c plates, but for now I'm going to have to pass, as thats not on the list at the moment...

Now, I know it is possible tat the car won't be able to be aligned but I'm going to take that risk as the tires are almost bad... I asked about installing this on another mustang forum, and I was told that if I don't get the c/c plates that I will bottom out the struts on almost every bump because the c/c plates give an extra 1-2" on strut travel....

Now, I'm very concerned with this. The stang has 144k on it and I'm certain the suspension is stock, and it rides rough, and not a good rough that comes with springs, but a worn out rough. Will I be safe to install these, is there any truth to the 1-2" of travel with c/c plates??

Also, how do I know if I need to get a bumpsteer kit??? In addition, do I need anything else to make sure that my car doesnt die??? I don't want to be driving down the road and have the front suspension just die on me... I've lowered ther cars, but never a mustang... So any help that I could get would be GREAT!!

Thanks in advance for any help!!
 
If it's lowered 1", you don't need anything...
If 2" you need CC plates. They're not that expensive compared to the tires you'll chew.

No Bumpsteer until you need it... you'll know.
 
Tokico makes the Ford Bullit/Mach1 kits so i would doubt CC plates would be in order...most people never run em anyway..
I would do the swap and see what gives, you should be fine....when you go in for an alignment they'll be able to tell you if there's a problem....if things go out of range for the stock CC plates to correct geometry, then CC plates are needed...
Bumpsteer...one symptom can be the wheel jerking when you hit potholes or the like in the pavement or the wheel sticking on corners..If you have youll feel it right off..
There's alot of opinions on suspension mod stuff for what is and isn't needed...
Some choose to install offset rack bushings...these correct the rack position cause you dropped the suspension...
Swaybar endlinks to correct that....your springs lowered everything so you need shorter ones...
In your case with mucho miles...did you buy new spring isolators all around? yours have got to be torched... :D
Did you buy a new rear pinion snubber? The rear is gonna bottom out with the stock one being to long once your BBK's go in...she'll bang over bumps...
BBK sells all the parts you need....when I did mine I got the isolators, snubber, endlinks from them...I run FRPP Alum offset rack bushings.
 
I'm no Arab terrorist, but I'm hijacking this for a sec... :banana: Where the F*** is the pinion snubber located at, and how does it come off? I just got a set of Koni yellows and some Eibach sport lowering springs. In the Koni set, there was a bullet shaped rubber piece with a threaded end that was about 2-3 inches long overall. Is that a replacement snubber? I couldnt find anywhere for it to go...
 
Mounts to a bracket up above the rear...

pinion_snubber_mac.jpg
 
I just had mine done, Eibach 1.3 Front & 1.4 Rear, Tokiko Struts & Shocks as replacing the rear upper & lower control arms, mine got 165K on it, and before was very sloppy & and bottomed out on every little bump. Now I feel every little bump, but the car is tighter. I never realized just how noisy the vert was until now. Oh yea I replaced my tri bar rims for a set 18's w/ P245 40's what I gave up in sloppy road feel I got back on handling & style.

BTW before I replaced them two of the factory springs had cracked, the front struts where leaking hence the reason it bottomed out on everything.
 
Thanks for all the replies, my main question is about the c/c plates, if I don't have them my struts wont bottom out like the one guy said. He said that the c/c plates give extra range of motion and that if I don't have them the struts will bottom out and will be trash in a few miles/few bumps...