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Finally Blew a head Gasket

  • Thread starter Thread starter OrangeMustangGt
  • Start date Start date Jan 19, 2006

OrangeMustangGt

Founding Member
Mar 7, 2002
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Cape Cod, MA
Jan 19, 2006
#1
  • Jan 19, 2006
  • #1
Today coolant was shooting everywhere. When i was trying to track down my problem why my car wouldent run, by mistake I left my FPR unplugged when i took it for a drive,.......now i got my new maf, i got coolant spraying everywhere...

Soo, i dont know what is best for a replacement headgasket for a boosted application? What do you guys like best, and where can i find them? I would like to do it this weekend if i can.
 

OrangeMustangGt

Founding Member
Mar 7, 2002
1,976
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36
Cape Cod, MA
Jan 19, 2006
#2
  • Jan 19, 2006
  • #2
i was also looking at some headgaskets, and need to know what bore and Thickness i need. thanks alot guys!
 

BlackVert

15 Year Member
Oct 3, 2003
5,589
9
98
Bethesda, MD
Jan 19, 2006
#3
  • Jan 19, 2006
  • #3
finally? those turbos haven't been on there that long, have they?

sorry to hear it tho ... blowing a hg is my biggest fear. i hope nothing else went on you at the same time ...

ru going to replace doing both hgs?

i'd say go as thick as possible to lower the compression ratio some.
 

Dan95-5.0

Active Member
Jun 14, 2003
1,110
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Manitoba, Canada
Jan 19, 2006
#4
  • Jan 19, 2006
  • #4
9333-pt1 with arp studs.


lots of people run these gaskets over at turbomustangs.com. people have run up to 20 PSI on them.

dont be cheap either, get some ARP head studs.....unless you want to change head gaskets every few months
 

final5-0

Mustang Master
Apr 6, 2003
6,817
12
79
DFW Texas
Jan 19, 2006
#5
  • Jan 19, 2006
  • #5
Sorry to see that happen to you Kyle.

A lot of work to make it right again

but

You most likely did not hurt anything

As far as which gaskets to use ...............

I gotta side with Dan ................

Cruise over to some of the power adder forums and see what those guys have to say

Hope everything goes smooth when you put it all back together

Grady
 

OrangeMustangGt

Founding Member
Mar 7, 2002
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Cape Cod, MA
Jan 19, 2006
#6
  • Jan 19, 2006
  • #6
oh yeah, i dont want to be cheap, What Brand are those you listed?
 

Dan95-5.0

Active Member
Jun 14, 2003
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36
Manitoba, Canada
Jan 19, 2006
#7
  • Jan 19, 2006
  • #7
felp-pro's. there graphite heat gaskets
 
Y

yellow1995Cobra

New Member
Dec 23, 2002
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Massachusetts
Jan 19, 2006
#8
  • Jan 19, 2006
  • #8
Dan95-5.0 said:
9333-pt1 with arp studs.


lots of people run these gaskets over at turbomustangs.com. people have run up to 20 PSI on them.

dont be cheap either, get some ARP head studs.....unless you want to change head gaskets every few months
Click to expand...


Yea what he said. They are a very popular HG. Actually now that i think of it.. Wasnt there two part numbers. One was for aluminum heads/iron block, and another for iron/iron. I think the part # u listed was for the alum/iron. Correct me if im wrong? He has the iron gt40p's...

Damn those turbo cars! Well you had it runing for a day atleast right?
 

VibrantRedGT

"STANGNET'S PENGUIN SMACKER"
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
14,679
424
154
Boca Raton, Florida
Jan 19, 2006
#9
  • Jan 19, 2006
  • #9
If you noticed all the power adder threads I repeated several times after its added make sure you head to a dyno for a tune. You can't just bolt on a power adder and expect the A/F, fuel and timing to be perfect. I did the same exact thing when I added the Vortech. I couldn't stay out of it and blew the heads off the block. Change the head gaskets and put it on a dyno or you'll be in the same boat again.
 
Y

yellow1995Cobra

New Member
Dec 23, 2002
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Jan 19, 2006
#10
  • Jan 19, 2006
  • #10
VibrantRedGT said:
If you noticed all the power adder threads I repeated several times after its added make sure you head to a dyno for a tune. You can't just bolt on a power adder and expect the A/F, fuel and timing to be perfect. I did the same exact thing when I added the Vortech. I couldn't stay out of it and blew the heads off the block. Change the head gaskets and put it on a dyno or you'll be in the same boat again.
Click to expand...

His car was tuned though...
 
B

blk9450

Founding Member
Jan 31, 2002
1,507
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0
your moms bed
Jan 19, 2006
#11
  • Jan 19, 2006
  • #11
Dan95-5.0 said:
9333-pt1 with arp studs.


lots of people run these gaskets over at turbomustangs.com. people have run up to 20 PSI on them.

dont be cheap either, get some ARP head studs.....unless you want to change head gaskets every few months
Click to expand...
+1

thats what i run, with some copper spray on them
 

urban96

bubb rubb says:"woo woooooo"
Founding Member
Sep 24, 2002
3,464
1
69
Syracuse, NY
Jan 19, 2006
#12
  • Jan 19, 2006
  • #12
yellow1995Cobra said:
His car was tuned though...
Click to expand...
yep his car was tuned, but he forgot to plug in the AFPR
 

blksn955.o

Founding Member
Mar 15, 2002
3,263
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66
st.louis mo 314
Jan 19, 2006
#13
  • Jan 19, 2006
  • #13
From what I have seen you realy dont want to go too thick on the HG, as it will make your quench(sp?) outta wack and make a boosted engine ping/det. alot easier.
 

Grn92LX

Fidanza Man!
Founding Member
Jan 14, 2001
6,819
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129
New York
Jan 19, 2006
#14
  • Jan 19, 2006
  • #14
blksn955.o said:
From what I have seen you realy dont want to go too thick on the HG, as it will make your quench(sp?) outta wack and make a boosted engine ping/det. alot easier.
Click to expand...




The 1011-1 is what i'd be looking at based on what my engine builder recommended me.
 
B

blk9450

Founding Member
Jan 31, 2002
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your moms bed
Jan 19, 2006
#15
  • Jan 19, 2006
  • #15
blksn955.o said:
From what I have seen you realy dont want to go too thick on the HG, as it will make your quench(sp?) outta wack and make a boosted engine ping/det. alot easier.
Click to expand...
too thin of a head gasket increases compression, which causes detonation. i think you have it backwards
 

blksn955.o

Founding Member
Mar 15, 2002
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st.louis mo 314
Jan 19, 2006
#16
  • Jan 19, 2006
  • #16
no, it goes with quench(sp?) the area the pis. has before the head surface. I am no expert on the quench but it is a fairly important thing to remember. It has to do with the way things are compressed...


going to thick is were quench area gets TOO big and your on the opposite side (as opposed to too thin getting too much comp.) of the subject from what I get out of it.

Also det. is caused by several things not JUST comp. now with boost comp. becomes more important to watch but I have heard of cars with 10:1+ running great with boost and I would doubt with a paper thin HG this combo on 5psi would get into THOSE kind of levels even.
 

BlackVert

15 Year Member
Oct 3, 2003
5,589
9
98
Bethesda, MD
Jan 19, 2006
#17
  • Jan 19, 2006
  • #17
what is the stock compression ratio?
 

YEAHLOH95

Founding Member
Nov 19, 2001
1,249
3
39
EVERETT,PA
Jan 20, 2006
#18
  • Jan 20, 2006
  • #18
i say run the stock graphite ones again, it wasn't their fault let them be the weak link . they are easier to replace than pistons, or you can run felpro 1011-2's thats what i have and they have worked well.
 
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