Finally Blew a head Gasket

OrangeMustangGt

Founding Member
Mar 7, 2002
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Cape Cod, MA
Today coolant was shooting everywhere. When i was trying to track down my problem why my car wouldent run, by mistake I left my FPR unplugged when i took it for a drive,.......now i got my new maf, i got coolant spraying everywhere...

Soo, i dont know what is best for a replacement headgasket for a boosted application? What do you guys like best, and where can i find them? I would like to do it this weekend if i can.
 
finally? those turbos haven't been on there that long, have they?

sorry to hear it tho ... blowing a hg is my biggest fear. i hope nothing else went on you at the same time ...

ru going to replace doing both hgs?

i'd say go as thick as possible to lower the compression ratio some.
 
9333-pt1 with arp studs.


lots of people run these gaskets over at turbomustangs.com. people have run up to 20 PSI on them.

dont be cheap either, get some ARP head studs.....unless you want to change head gaskets every few months
 
Sorry to see that happen to you Kyle.

A lot of work to make it right again :fuss:

but

You most likely did not hurt anything :)

As far as which gaskets to use ...............

I gotta side with Dan ................

Cruise over to some of the power adder forums and see what those guys have to say :D

Hope everything goes smooth when you put it all back together :nice:

Grady
 
Dan95-5.0 said:
9333-pt1 with arp studs.


lots of people run these gaskets over at turbomustangs.com. people have run up to 20 PSI on them.

dont be cheap either, get some ARP head studs.....unless you want to change head gaskets every few months


Yea what he said. They are a very popular HG. Actually now that i think of it.. Wasnt there two part numbers. One was for aluminum heads/iron block, and another for iron/iron. I think the part # u listed was for the alum/iron. Correct me if im wrong? He has the iron gt40p's...

Damn those turbo cars! Well you had it runing for a day atleast right?
 
If you noticed all the power adder threads I repeated several times after its added make sure you head to a dyno for a tune. You can't just bolt on a power adder and expect the A/F, fuel and timing to be perfect. I did the same exact thing when I added the Vortech. I couldn't stay out of it and blew the heads off the block. Change the head gaskets and put it on a dyno or you'll be in the same boat again.
 
VibrantRedGT said:
If you noticed all the power adder threads I repeated several times after its added make sure you head to a dyno for a tune. You can't just bolt on a power adder and expect the A/F, fuel and timing to be perfect. I did the same exact thing when I added the Vortech. I couldn't stay out of it and blew the heads off the block. Change the head gaskets and put it on a dyno or you'll be in the same boat again.

His car was tuned though...
 
Dan95-5.0 said:
9333-pt1 with arp studs.


lots of people run these gaskets over at turbomustangs.com. people have run up to 20 PSI on them.

dont be cheap either, get some ARP head studs.....unless you want to change head gaskets every few months
+1

thats what i run, with some copper spray on them
 
blksn955.o said:
From what I have seen you realy dont want to go too thick on the HG, as it will make your quench(sp?) outta wack and make a boosted engine ping/det. alot easier.


:nice:

The 1011-1 is what i'd be looking at based on what my engine builder recommended me.
 
no, it goes with quench(sp?) the area the pis. has before the head surface. I am no expert on the quench but it is a fairly important thing to remember. It has to do with the way things are compressed...


going to thick is were quench area gets TOO big and your on the opposite side (as opposed to too thin getting too much comp.) of the subject from what I get out of it.

Also det. is caused by several things not JUST comp. now with boost comp. becomes more important to watch but I have heard of cars with 10:1+ running great with boost and I would doubt with a paper thin HG this combo on 5psi would get into THOSE kind of levels even.
 
i say run the stock graphite ones again, it wasn't their fault let them be the weak link . they are easier to replace than pistons, or you can run felpro 1011-2's thats what i have and they have worked well.