Finally done! what is it worth now =) (dialup=death)

You'll be sorry after you sell it, ya, I know you're buying a house! But when you have that nice new house and NO Mustang to put in its new garage, you'll be bumed out! Trust me I know, I've been there, done it. Get another job and save your money!
 
I am not saying it is the most accurate gauge for comparison in the world, but since there is so little to choose from when trying to price out a car, I would reccomend that you plug the info in at NADA.com and see what they rate your car at then go from there. Because it is at least something that you can print out to show a potential buyer how you derived at the asking price and it is something they can inturn access to check your claims against, you are at least both talking about the same apple and he can't support a low ball counter offer.

Just as a most very basic reference when I plug your car in without listing any particular options it comes up as:

Original MSRP: $2,427

.............Low Retail Average Retail High Retail
Base Price $5,375 $12,150 $18,600


With a desription of values as follows:

Low Retail Value
This vehicle would be in mechanically functional condition, needing only minor reconditioning. The exterior paint, trim, and interior would show normal wear, needing only minor reconditioning. May also be a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. Most usable "as-is".

Note: This value does not represent a "parts car".

Average Retail Value
This vehicle would be in good condition overall. It could be an older restoration or a well-maintained original vehicle. Completely operable. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are presentable and serviceable inside and out. A "20-footer".

High Retail Value
This vehicle would be in excellent condition overall. It could be a completely restored or an extremely well maintained original vehicle showing very minimal wear. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are not in need of reconditioning. The interior would be in excellent condition. Note: This value does not represent a "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle *.
* "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle is not driven. It would generally be in a museum or transported in an enclosed trailer to concourse judging and car shows. This type of car would be stored in a climate-regulated facility.

Obviously the numbers will grow dramatically once you plug in your options.
 
Pakrat said:
I am not saying it is the most accurate gauge for comparison in the world, but since there is so little to choose from when trying to price out a car, I would reccomend that you plug the info in at NADA.com and see what they rate your car at then go from there. Because it is at least something that you can print out to show a potential buyer how you derived at the asking price and it is something they can inturn access to check your claims against, you are at least both talking about the same apple and he can't support a low ball counter offer.

Just as a most very basic reference when I plug your car in without listing any particular options it comes up as:

Original MSRP: $2,427

.............Low Retail Average Retail High Retail
Base Price $5,375 $12,150 $18,600


With a desription of values as follows:

Low Retail Value
This vehicle would be in mechanically functional condition, needing only minor reconditioning. The exterior paint, trim, and interior would show normal wear, needing only minor reconditioning. May also be a deteriorated restoration or a very poor amateur restoration. Most usable "as-is".

Note: This value does not represent a "parts car".

Average Retail Value
This vehicle would be in good condition overall. It could be an older restoration or a well-maintained original vehicle. Completely operable. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are presentable and serviceable inside and out. A "20-footer".

High Retail Value
This vehicle would be in excellent condition overall. It could be a completely restored or an extremely well maintained original vehicle showing very minimal wear. The exterior paint, trim, and mechanics are not in need of reconditioning. The interior would be in excellent condition. Note: This value does not represent a "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle *.
* "100 Point" or "# 1" vehicle is not driven. It would generally be in a museum or transported in an enclosed trailer to concourse judging and car shows. This type of car would be stored in a climate-regulated facility.

Obviously the numbers will grow dramatically once you plug in your options.


With regards to classic cars you can throw any figures from NADA right out the window, but like you said its a basic reference. Its a demand driven market, especially when it comes to non original cars. Toss is the Ebay and Barret Jackson factors and no one can really predict what a car will sell for these days. Thers a guy from another mustang site whos kids sold a fastback theyd bought from behind a barn for $300 on ebay for over $6,000. Bottom line is, whats the car worth to the buyer and whats it going to take to pry it from the hands of the owner?
 
Can't you unload one of your other rides? It would be a shame to sell such a nice stang. How good is your credit? Maybe you can get a home loan with no money down?

Might be able to squeeze a couple more grand out of the price if you add GT light bar, stripe kit, exhaust, etc?
 
put the running horse back in the grill!! thats like taking the spoiler off a plymouth superbird.
Superbird.jpg
start at 20k and let em work ya down. let em feel good abuot themself.
 
TT670 said:
With regards to classic cars you can throw any figures from NADA right out the window, but like you said its a basic reference. Its a demand driven market, especially when it comes to non original cars. Toss is the Ebay and Barret Jackson factors and no one can really predict what a car will sell for these days. Thers a guy from another mustang site whos kids sold a fastback theyd bought from behind a barn for $300 on ebay for over $6,000. Bottom line is, whats the car worth to the buyer and whats it going to take to pry it from the hands of the owner?

Agreed, it is not the best but it does give you "some" reference point at least for the average Joe, certainly better than ebay or BJ for sure and way closer to reality then say the kelley blue book when looking at classics.

Let's put it this way, when selling to a fellow enthusiast there is no room for BS anyway, you both know the market, when selling to somone new to the hobby though, NADA looks pretty official and can help you justify just about whatever you want to ask. The only thing as good as gold is an official appraisal from a qualified source, anything else is simply a reference.
 
XXBULLETSXX said:
So any luck with the sale? If so how much? Just want to know how much it took to buy that sweet ride that I missed out on.
some guy tired to buy it and i called the bank to verify funds and they were not there. what scum some people are. anyways its still around.