krly79 said:many people slot the screws with a dremel to fit a flathead on it. i've done this with alot of stuff and it has worked every time.
mhanna77 said:Some aftermarket TB's have a idle adj. screw. If so just unplug the stupid IAC, set your idle with the screw on the aftertmarket TB and enjoy snappy throttle response.
krly79 said:They actually make a part for that that was a TSB on the 5.0's I think. Anyway, they make one that will fit on a 4.6 (if it's not the same) and it goes in between your IAC and your throttle body with adjustment screws. I've seen it on a thread in here, but don't remember which one.
mhanna77 said:The part is made for the 5.0 and happens to fit the 4.6 but doesn't work, I have the part and by design cannot work on our 4.6 cars.
Someone posted a link to another similar post that shows a picture of the idle air kit. I also have the kit. Look at the picture, the part is designed to let air enter one chamber and then be regulated through an orifice (by an adjuster screw) into the second chamber. This was to allow the 5.0 owner to adjust curb idle. If you install the part on a 4.6 no matter which way you install it the air just travels straight through bypassing the metering screw. So the part acomplishes nothing.krly79 said:
GTblack_00 said:I was able to fix the pesky idle problem with my chip, you have to raise the dashpot clip values and the dashpot decay rate. When you fix the problem electronically the motor doesnt want to rev "By it self" when you just tap the gas. The motor settles to idle much quicker now and the r's dont hang but I have left the coputer in full control. If you cant do this though, it would be the copper cap for me!!
This is almost exactly how you would do it for an old 5.0krly79 said:Well, I put it back in to go get some applicators for my wax and it worked really well.Seems I was just being a bit hastey before. I used about a 9/32 in hole. I didn't have a drill bit so I had to use a tape measure to measure the hole. Though I did find this from a thread at the corral...
ford procedure is as follows:
1. get engine to operating tempurature. turn off ac, radio, etc.
2. disconnect IAC (idle air contol soleniod). if engine stalls turn throttle stop in one full turn and restart engine.
3. set throttle stop to desired idle speed (rpm)
4. set throttle position sensor anywhere from .96 to .99 volts. loosen the mounting screws and lightly rotate the sensor till the voltage is within range (use a mutimeter to check as your rotating). you may have to drill out the mounting holes to reach the desired range.
5. turn off engine. disconnect negative battery cable for 15-20 minutes. tap the breaks to ensure all capacitive power is lost.
this will reset the computer to factory defaults.
6. reconnect IAC. then connect battery cable.
7. restart engine and drive for about 15 minutes so the computer can relearn any settings that have been changed since factory.
8. if problem persists, inspect for mas air meter problems and possible vacuum leaks.
you may have to perform this procedure a couple times till the rev down is correct.
the first time i did this my engine would take about 7 seconds to rev down from 2000 rpm. this was due to the throttle position sensor being out of time(range). careful when tightening the screws back down because it will want to rotate in that direction.
also i was told that when you disconnect the solenoid harness and if the car dies, this is a dead give away that your throttle is not set right.
a quick check also is to turn the key to the on position but not starting the engine. then check your voltage on the tps.
here is the thread> http://www.corral.net/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=286522&highlight=hanging+idle
I think I might try is some time.
JonJon said:Why does this bother people though?It really isn't -that- slow, it's slow, but keeps the RPMs up when you're racing
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