Good to see you pushing forward on the car! Obviously family priorities come first (a lot of us have been there already) but glad to see you’re keeping the car hobby going. We need to keep transferring it to the next generations.
Thanks man.Good to see you pushing forward on the car! Obviously family priorities come first (a lot of us have been there already) but glad to see you’re keeping the car hobby going. We need to keep transferring it to the next generations.
Just realized that the link was to a hood pin. I thought it was an oddly placed ad at first and didn’t even think to click on it. Just looked up an install video on YouTube and that looks a little intimidating with the dremmeling the shape into the hood O_OPlease for the love of god do not put old school hood pins on that car.
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Any updates on the fox? Congrats on your new car. I like it.Haven't updated this or spent much time on any forums the last few months. I had to start going back to the office so I've had a lot less garage time recently. The only "major" development on the Fox Mustang recently was that I confirmed the battery was kaput. A few weeks ago I tried to use it to take my dog to a vet appointment. Stopped at a gas station 5 min down the road from my house and after adding a few gallons of gas, I went to start the car again and it was completely dead. I had a tow truck driver come to the gas station and he was actually able to jump start it with his crazy powerful battery pack thing.
I still ended up taking the battery to Auto Zone and they tried to charge but could only get it charged like 70 something percent and said there was a dead cell or something like that. I ended up getting an all new battery and it's been fine the few times I've been able to drive the car. I've added a few random vlogs from the garage to my YouTube channel on the issue. Here's one of the more recent ones:
On a non-Fox but still car-related note, I actually took delivery of my newest vehicle a few weeks ago:
2023 Hyundai Elantra N - 6 speed manual, 2.0L turbo with 276 HP/289 lb. ft TQ. Front wheel drive but shockingly fun to drive.
Hope everyone is enjoying the holiday season.
Thanks for chiming in. Yeah, they are stock style LCAs. I saw something about making sure to tighten the inner bolts after the car is on the ground so I was definitely planning on double checking that process. Thanks for the reminder. Hoping I can find some time this coming weekend to get back to it and make some progress. My new job has had me traveling a fair amount and that with chasing a high energy 2 year old around has made finding garage time a challenge.I’ve done it all sorts of ways in every combination.
Loosening the balljoint and hitting the LcA with the hammer is the easier way to pop the spindle off the balljoint. You’ll need to pull the spring. Since you have to do the caster camber plates anyway I would just unbolt the shock from the spindle and remove the spindle and lower the control arm down.
Are they stock styl le arms? Remember, when done, leave the inner bolts loose (but snug enough to not come off) drive the car around the block? And then torque the inner bolts at ride height.
Thanks man. I ordered that around the time I ordered the springs. Now I just gotta find it somewhere in the garage.And get yourself the Maximum Motorsports tool to help install the springs. It makes it very easy!!!
You be drink'n the same coffee as meHey man, its been a while. If it were me I'd just loosen the ball joint castle nut and pop them loose by tapping with a hammer on the spindle. Don't take them all the way off but pop those ball joints loose first. Removing the calipers and hanging them to the side is a must. Don't want to damage the brake hoses. Next would be loosening the tie rod arm at the nut on the arm and turn the inner tie rod to make sure the outter tie rod will unthread. They are a pain to get loose if the tie rod end is out of the spindle. The process from there; remove outter tie rod end, remove the strut bolts ( with jack stands under car and jack under control arm ). Lower the arm and spindle. Pry out spring, remove lower arm, remove strut top nut, remove factory camber plate, install new camper plates, strut, new control arm, new spring, jack up with lower arm, install spindle, install strut bolts, install bump steer kit, reinstall caliper. Leave control arm mounting bolts slightly loose like 5L5 stated.
The bump steer kit takes a bit to adjust properly. If you haven't already checked it out there is a way to make a bump steer gauge on YT. You want the tie rod to be inline with the center of the lower arm bolts and through the ball joint cup.
Wow...that was a long post. Glad to see your update. Kids take so much time. It's all worth it though.
Thanks man. Springs currently in the car are stock as far as I can tell.Which springs do you have on it now?
I would pull it all apart. Really doesn't make anything easier leaving parts in the way as it just gets in your way. Strip the old arms out, the spindles, the shocks, the caster camber plates and springs and then start from scratch essentially.
Hey man, great to hear from you. Hope all is well on your end. I haven’t been around FXBG much since my work has me up north a lot more these days. Trying to make more time to be down here now that the weather is warming up though.Hey man, its been a while. If it were me I'd just loosen the ball joint castle nut and pop them loose by tapping with a hammer on the spindle. Don't take them all the way off but pop those ball joints loose first. Removing the calipers and hanging them to the side is a must. Don't want to damage the brake hoses. Next would be loosening the tie rod arm at the nut on the arm and turn the inner tie rod to make sure the outter tie rod will unthread. They are a pain to get loose if the tie rod end is out of the spindle. The process from there; remove outter tie rod end, remove the strut bolts ( with jack stands under car and jack under control arm ). Lower the arm and spindle. Pry out spring, remove lower arm, remove strut top nut, remove factory camber plate, install new camper plates, strut, new control arm, new spring, jack up with lower arm, install spindle, install strut bolts, install bump steer kit, reinstall caliper. Leave control arm mounting bolts slightly loose like 5L5 stated.
The bump steer kit takes a bit to adjust properly. If you haven't already checked it out there is a way to make a bump steer gauge on YT. You want the tie rod to be inline with the center of the lower arm bolts and through the ball joint cup.
Wow...that was a long post. Glad to see your update. Kids take so much time. It's all worth it though.
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