Finaly got it running, next morning dead again!WTF

M

miller92063

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Oct 12, 2005

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Nebraska

Aug 4, 2009

#1

• Aug 4, 2009

• #1

So I finaly got it running. Replaced some connections around the TFI checked some others, got it working. Drove it around the block a few miles to the gas station, then back to the house. Man it felt great to have her back!

But I went out this morining to drive her a it wouldn't turn over. At first it started for a couple of seconds, but died and wont start back up.WTF
Any ideas.

Thanks
Jason

 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run

15 Year Member

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Aug 5, 2009

#2

• Aug 5, 2009

• #2

Does it have any codes? Grab a noid light and check for injector pulsing, and also check for spark, and for the fuel pump to prime when you turn the key on. It sounds like either a bad TFI, or PIP to me.

 

M

miller92063

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Aug 5, 2009

#3

• Aug 5, 2009

• #3

I have replaced the PIP twice to make sure it was not the problem. The pump does kick on. I have suspected the TFI for some time, but have had it tested almost a dozen times and every time it tests passes the test. I had them test it three times last time just to make sure it got nice and hot.
still passed. Haven't had a chance to pull the codes. I'll go do that now.

 

M

miller92063

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Oct 12, 2005

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Nebraska

Aug 5, 2009

#4

• Aug 5, 2009

• #4

The codes are as follows:

118-I have replaced the factory temp sensor with aftermarket.
511-Replace PCM! Holy &H!T!
565-Canister Purge-pretty sure this has also been disconnected.

Do I have a bad computer? Son of a..... Dammit!

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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Aug 5, 2009

#5

• Aug 5, 2009

• #5

Jason, you said it won't turn over. It actually turns over but won't catch, right?

511 is probably because of your tune/chip.

118 can happen if the car isn't warmed up.

In addition to what Matt said, check things like that the MAF didnt come loose from it's hose.

 

M

miller92063

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Aug 5, 2009

#6

• Aug 5, 2009

• #6

Ya, it will crank all day. It just wont start. I still think that it is the TFI module, I don't know how they test the modules, but I dont trust it. Think I'll just buy a new one.

On the MAF what do you mean from it's hose?

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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Aug 5, 2009

#7

• Aug 5, 2009

• #7

New parts are not always good parts. Tossing new parts at something costs money, wastes time and creates extra variables.

If you have spark, your TFI is functional. It takes 30 seconds to check for spark. Check it and you'll have a better idea of what's going on.

 

M

miller92063

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Aug 5, 2009

#8

• Aug 5, 2009

• #8

The spark is where the confusion is. Sometimes it has spark and other times it doesn't. Leading me to believe it is the TFI.

 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear

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Aug 5, 2009

#9

• Aug 5, 2009

• #9

Spark could also be a bad PIP in the distributor. Check if you have spark (voltage) before and after the coil. If you get the same result (sometimes spark, sometimes not) then the TFI is the likely culprit. If spark before the coil but not after, it's the coil. If consistently before and after the coil, the distributor is the fault.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

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Aug 5, 2009

#10

• Aug 5, 2009

• #10

For explicit clarity: In Matt's last line, when he says dizzy, he is saying it'd be the cap/rotor (not the PIP, as was how I first took it).

How are you testing spark? Did you pull the plugs (or a plug)? What color was the spark?

 

M

miller92063

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Oct 12, 2005

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Aug 5, 2009

#11

• Aug 5, 2009

• #11

I would pull the plug at the coil and watch for the spark to jump from the plug to the coil. I have done it many times before and it finaly bit me in the ass. I grounded myself to the car and did it. The spark went through my thumb, and holy f#$%!
Any way, everytime i would pull a spark plug and hold it to the strut tower is when i never got spark at all so not sure on the color.

 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?

15 Year Member

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Aug 5, 2009

#12

• Aug 5, 2009

• #12

That's what I figured. The only way to reliably test spark is with a spark tester or an old plug. I use an old plug that either has the threads grounded or I attach an aligator clip to the threads and ground it (you could braze a ground wire to the plug's threads too).

Doing the test the way you are can actually damage the coil or wire. You've seen what else it can do (shocking you).

I would try to use something other than the strut tower for a ground. Be sure there's no paint on the surface you're using.

 

BlownFiveLiter

have car, will race....wait, it doesn't run

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Aug 5, 2009

#13

• Aug 5, 2009

• #13

Just for S&G's, try reseating the chip on your EEC, too. That can cause all kinds of headaches and ghost issues.

 

True 5.0

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Aug 6, 2009

#14

• Aug 6, 2009

• #14

Did you verify the rotor is actually turning? If not, a broken timing chain? Just a thought.