Finished up a T5 swap, comments and a review

DJCarbine

New Member
May 4, 2005
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I just finished up swapping in a T5 in my originally equiped toploader 3 speed 66. I thought I would offer some comments on the swap to help those considering it. I used a T5 bellhousing and the stock linkage.

1. If purchasing a conversion kit from California Pony Cars, check fitment between the trans mount and the crossmember. I had to grind 1/8th of an inch off the mount, or else it would not sit flush. I found this out on a test fitment on my bench. I am glad I didn't find that out while under the car.

2. Get all the bolts possible from the T5 you get at the junkyard/ebay. Make SURE you get the trans to bellhousing bolts. They are a fairly hard to find bolt, and you don't want to be held back thinking your old trans bolts will work.

3. The pilot bushing needs to be changed with a pilot bearing. Packing the bushing with wheel bearing grease, and using a clutch install tool (plastic) took me about 2 minutes. Hit the tool 3 times fairly soft and it popped out.

4. For people with single exhaust.... You will have fun getting the T5 input shaft into the bellhousing after getting it under the car ready for install. With the toploader, you can slide it back and then lower the front to get it out. With the T5, the part where the exhaust Y's together will not let you slide the T5 back sufficiently to get the input shaft into the bellhousing. I had to pry on the Y part with a 2x4 and barely got the clearance.

5. Take the shifter handle + assembly off BEFORE trying to install it. I learned the hard way.

6. My starter bolted right up. It seems that sometimes they will, sometimes you need to get an automatic starter.

7. Have fun finding the Correct U-joint with the CPC yoke they supply. They have internal locking, and the driveshaft on my 66 is external. Driveshaft shop is your best bet for less headache.

8. Do NOT bolt the fulcrum kit on the bellhousing thinking you will slide the fork in after you have it bolted to the engine. The fork will not clear it. Either bolt the bellhousing up with the fork already installed, or bolt the fulcrum kit together when the bellhousing is installed and you put the fork in place. I learned the hard way, as usual.

9. Another note on the pilot bearing, it will not go in all the way. Don't beat the crap out of it, it will stick out 1/8th of an inch because thats where it bottoms out on the crank.

10. Cursing helps. I believe one member commented that his car was "Powered by profanity". Well in that case, I will never run out of fuel.
 
66mustangg said:
thats awesome, i am probablly going to do that too, how long did it take you?

I spent 2 hours yesterday getting the old trans out and prepping the new one for going in. I spent 4 hours this afternoon modifying the bellhousing and double checking everything, taking the clutch/flywheel off, and reassembling everything except for the driveshaft which I am debating cutting. I get 3/4 of an inch clearance to the output shaft bushing, and since the bushing sticks out an inch more than stock, there is another inch before the yoke bottoms out on the output shaft. This is working at a steady and fairly quick pace, as I have had the trans out several times for other reasons like clutch failure, throwout bearing failure, and a faulty pressure plate.
 
Good rundown of the installation process. I'm days away from doing the same install and your outline will save me some time.

So have your driven the car yet? If yes, I'm interested in your comments on the before vs after. Also, did you change the rear end gear ratio? My 66 has a 3.00 to 1 rear end. I'm a little concerned about driveability since my T-5 has a 3.35 1st and 0.68 5th.

With regard to the driveshaft and u-joints, I've purchased new u-joints for my existing 3 speed yoke/driveshaft assembly. I've bench installed the driveshaft and yoke and measurements looks to be close but ok.

Thanks.
 
I am running to the driveshaft shop tomorrow to get my shaft balanced and new u-joints installed. My old u-joints would not fit due to the yoke from CPC accepting a larger cap, and they are internal clip. I will be (hopefully) driving it tomorrow after I get back from the shop. I have a 2.80/90 rear end, I will definatly post a before/after comment as far as driveability. I assume its going to be easier to start out in first than on the 3 speed.
 
Finished up the install this afternoon, took it for a test drive :D

Another point or 2 about the install...


- If you have a factory single exhaust, forget about installing the e-brake cable assembly again with the CPC crossmember they supply. It simply will not clear the exhaust.

- Instead of a conversion joint, I had the driveshaft shop put on a new front yoke. Easier to find U-joints for. Cost me 130 to get it cut, new yoke installed, balanced, all new spicer u-joints.

As far as driveability.... with 2.79 rear gears, its a blast. With the 3.55 I'm about to order, I'm sure it will be twice as fun :D


Oh, and pour the ATF fluid in through the shifter housing once the trans is fit to the bellhousing and not yet bolted up. If you bolt the trans in to the crossmember, you will never get the bolts to the shifter housing on/or be able to pour the fluid in. If anyone has any questions about it feel free to ask me, this is the best modification I have done so far :SNSign: