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first brake job, not sure if i did things right

  • Thread starter Thread starter jmd2914
  • Start date Start date Sep 20, 2005
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jmd2914

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Sep 20, 2005
#1
  • Sep 20, 2005
  • #1
ok, i got the tire off, got the old pads out and put the new pads in and got everything back together, but the brakes squeak really bad. ( i got lincon mark 7 4 wheel disk brakes if that helps) what im wondering is, they are squeakin really bad, what can i do to get them to not do it? cuz it sounds really really bad. thanks guys
Joel
 
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ss93cobra

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Apr 10, 2002
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Wilmington NC
Sep 20, 2005
#2
  • Sep 20, 2005
  • #2
Either you need to turn the rotors or you purchased the "cheap" pads
 
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jmd2914

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Sep 20, 2005
#3
  • Sep 20, 2005
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i didnt get cheap pads, and the surface on the rotors seems fine, how much is it to have then turned? and is is really necesarry?
 

DTT92LX

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Oct 28, 2003
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Downingtown, PA
Sep 20, 2005
#4
  • Sep 20, 2005
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Did you use that lube stuff on the back of the pad? It's probably called "anti squeek" or something. Sounds like the pad or clips are rubbing on the caliper.
 
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jmd2914

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  • Sep 20, 2005
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umm, the front pads didnt have any, but the face of the pad was blue, the rear pads do have the lube stuff. where do i put it?
 

darthcual

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Mar 31, 2005
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Sep 20, 2005
#6
  • Sep 20, 2005
  • #6
sometimes the pads have certain sides they belong on. I would make sure you got them on the correct sides. Also, when doing a brake job, the old brake dust gets everywhere. Buy some brakeleen or carb cleanor and spray down those rotors really good. If you use the spray method first, their is no need to remove the calipers, just spray the rotors down good. I would recommend having the rotors turned or replaced but its not absolutely nescarry.
 

DTT92LX

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#7
  • Sep 20, 2005
  • #7
jmd2914 said:
umm, the front pads didnt have any, but the face of the pad was blue, the rear pads do have the lube stuff. where do i put it?
Click to expand...


Put it where the pad would rub against the caliper and cause a squeek.
 
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jmd2914

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Sep 20, 2005
#8
  • Sep 20, 2005
  • #8
ok, i went out and swapped the pads cuz i had them on the wrong sides and it helped alittle bit, but now i have other problems. the drivers side caliper seems to be clamped shut on the rotor. the rotor gets really really hot when i drive it around the block. and the passenger side caliper seems like its not clamped down enough, but the pins are as tight as i can get them. any help would be appreciated. thanks guys
 

sunil6784

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Sep 20, 2005
#9
  • Sep 20, 2005
  • #9
Make sure the rotor is flush against the wheel hub...and check the caliper slide pins. Pull out the pads, and unbolt caliper, and finally unbolt the bracket that's holding the caliper in place. There should be two long pinsthat have rubber boots around them. Thats where the caliper bolts to. Check to make sure that they slide in and out freely.

How worn were your old pads when you pulled them out?
 

DTT92LX

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Oct 28, 2003
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Sep 20, 2005
#10
  • Sep 20, 2005
  • #10
Well now you might be talking about seized caliper pistons. Not havin' much luck here, huh? That happened to me on my grandpas caddy. Thing was smoking so bad it looked like the rad was overheating! Be careful now while driving until you figger it out. Glazed and burning pads won't stop you too well!

Once it cools down (!) take it apart and start workin' with the caliper piston. Make sure the boot isn't torn. Brake dust inside there can seize up the piston. Use a c clamp to retract the piston and see if it moves. It won't move easily but it should move.

I'll stop here because I'm not a mechanic and brakes are nuthin' to be messing around with if you don't know what you're doing...

G'Luck
 
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jmd2914

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#11
  • Sep 20, 2005
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i used a c clamp and the block of wood when i did the origonal brake swap and it seemed to work fine, but when i have the car jacked up and im spinin the tire i can hear the pad rubbing on the rotor about half way around. im kinda in the dark here, so anything advice will help.
 

sunil6784

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Sep 20, 2005
#12
  • Sep 20, 2005
  • #12
How much pad was left on the pads you took out?
 
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Acid7711

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Sep 4, 2005
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TN
Sep 20, 2005
#13
  • Sep 20, 2005
  • #13
I know you need to get your siezed caliper problem taken care of, but generally, the squeeling from new pads is like they said, you didn't put greese on the back of the pads. Also, if the squeeling is a problem, are the pads shimmed? If they are, they should have a metalish piece on the back of the pads. Usually rivited to the back of the pad. Either way, goto the store, get a tube of Caliper Greese and put that on the back of the shim. If they arn't rivted, put caliper greese on both sides of the shim, then put the shim on the pad, then put the combined unit into the clips on the rotor. Hope this helps.
 
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jmd2914

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Sep 20, 2005
#14
  • Sep 20, 2005
  • #14
there was alot of pad left on the old ones when i took them off, but the pad was falling apart so i had to replace them.
 

sunil6784

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Sep 20, 2005
#15
  • Sep 20, 2005
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DId you check those slide pins?
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,260
17,944
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Massachusetts
Sep 20, 2005
#16
  • Sep 20, 2005
  • #16
A rebuild 73mm caliper is about $15 from Autozone if that calipers is indeed seized.

Just ask for calipers from a SVO or Mark 7
 
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jmd2914

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#17
  • Sep 20, 2005
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what should i check the pins for?
 

sunil6784

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Sep 20, 2005
#18
  • Sep 20, 2005
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Check to make sure that they slide in and out freely. If not, the caliper won't move and will be stuck in one position. Ford's design isn't all that slick on those. It is very easy for water to get in there and form rust.
 
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jmd2914

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Sep 20, 2005
#19
  • Sep 20, 2005
  • #19
what should i do about the extra room on the passenger side caliper?
 

sunil6784

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Mar 31, 2005
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Sep 20, 2005
#20
  • Sep 20, 2005
  • #20
What do you mean by extra room? Is this between the rotor and the pads?
 
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