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First car 86 T-Top 4 eye

  • Thread starter Thread starter Mixveez
  • Start date Start date May 13, 2020
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Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
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May 19, 2020
#41
  • May 19, 2020
  • #41
Hmm. Looks like it's not a cable, but a center rod, with an equalizer bar and adjustment nut on the handle. Unsure of the center adjustable cable for an 87+ will work here.

 

Mixveez

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#42
  • May 19, 2020
  • #42
Willybill32 said:
Mixvees, check out the files I posted above to get a picture of what the original '86 emergency brake linkage looks like, then compare to what you have under your Mustang. The diagram shows the equalizer bar and the pulleys the cables go over when they make a 90 degree turn.
Click to expand...
Alright ill do that.
 

Mixveez

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#43
  • May 19, 2020
  • #43
Mustang5L5 said:
Hmm. Looks like it's not a cable, but a center rod, with an equalizer bar and adjustment nut on the handle. Unsure of the center adjustable cable for an 87+ will work here.

Click to expand...
I think I will just take it to a mustang shop...
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
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#44
  • May 19, 2020
  • #44
 

Mixveez

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#45
  • May 19, 2020
  • #45
General karthief said:
Click to expand...
I know I know its not what I want to do but I think for a noob this is a pretty difficult task
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
20+ Year Stangneter
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#46
  • May 19, 2020
  • #46
No it's not.
the hard part about this is not having the parts to look at, take this part off, replace it with another part that looks like it, you don't have that luxury but you got pictures.
Here is what you need to do, go online and find an assembly manual, they are all over the place, not a Haynes or chilton but one from ford, let's see:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=132411564276
Here is an example. Money well spent.
I have one for my 89 stang and use it all the time.
You'll go broke paying someone else to fix it and may be end up worse off with miss matched parts.
 
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Olivethefet

I will own your nuts! LOL
5 Year Member
May 17, 2018
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May 19, 2020
#47
  • May 19, 2020
  • #47
There are lots of places around that sell Fox mustang parts. I'm talking about specialty shops like this:

Facebook

www.facebook.com

I know the link is to the book of faces, but chances are there are similar places around you. If there is you could go to one and talk to them in person about what you are dealing with. Chances are they have salvage parts that you can look at. They might even have an entire car you could craw around and inspect. The prices might be to high, but at least you will know exactly what you are looking for. That will better prepare you for making decisions about other parts that might work or could be modified to work.

I like to see things in person, so this is the route I would go. Cant hurt and you might get lucky and find a nice place where you can by salvage parts. The guys at Whisnant are great. I've been over there several times to get small parts and to pick their brains for knowledge. If you do go to one dont forget to take pictures!!!
 

Willybill32

But at least it's tight!
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May 19, 2020
#48
  • May 19, 2020
  • #48
General karthief said:
No it's not.
the hard part about this is not having the parts to look at, take this part off, replace it with another part that looks like it, you don't have that luxury but you got pictures.
Here is what you need to do, go online and find an assembly manual, they are all over the place, not a Haynes or chilton but one from ford, let's see:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=132411564276
Here is an example. Money well spent.
I have one for my 89 stang and use it all the time.
You'll go broke paying someone else to fix it and may be end up worse off with miss matched parts.
Click to expand...

The diagram I posted was out of an ‘86 Ford shop manual.

I think this is probably an intimidating project for someone new (and young) to take on, even though many/most of us have been through it and realize it really isn’t that difficult.
 

Willybill32

But at least it's tight!
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#49
  • May 19, 2020
  • #49
Here’s a set that covers your Mustang: http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-5...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=383382661463

I sold a better set on eBay for $40 a couple of months ago, but they’re out there.
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
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#50
  • May 19, 2020
  • #50
I have my ‘86 interior torn apart. I can get pics of the top and bottom for you, so you can see exactly what you should be putting together. I’m working right now, so it may not be until morning.
 
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Mixveez

Member
May 13, 2020
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#51
  • May 19, 2020
  • #51
General karthief said:
No it's not.
the hard part about this is not having the parts to look at, take this part off, replace it with another part that looks like it, you don't have that luxury but you got pictures.
Here is what you need to do, go online and find an assembly manual, they are all over the place, not a Haynes or chilton but one from ford, let's see:
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-...0001&campid=5335821607&icep_item=132411564276
Here is an example. Money well spent.
I have one for my 89 stang and use it all the time.
You'll go broke paying someone else to fix it and may be end up worse off with miss matched parts.
Click to expand...
Im just so confused because if I replace things with stock parts they wont fit because its not a stock setup.
 

Mixveez

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May 19, 2020
#52
  • May 19, 2020
  • #52
Willybill32 said:
The diagram I posted was out of an ‘86 Ford shop manual.

I think this is probably an intimidating project for someone new (and young) to take on, even though many/most of us have been through it and realize it really isn’t that difficult.
Click to expand...
Yeah my apologies like I said I did my first ever oil change just a few days ago, Im gonna try to get this all to work instead of just selling the car. So let me get this straight I need that diagram to see what I need even though those parts wont fit?
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
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#53
  • May 19, 2020
  • #53
I realize you have a different hookup at the caliper with the 5lug, but here is a baseline of what you should have been starting with on an ‘86.
The threaded rod connects to cable underneath, and is your adjustment mechanism:


This is underneath, where the threaded rod on the interior, and the hook underneath connect to the “equalizer” which has the cables connected to it


Here are the cables coming from the equalizer to the pulleys and toward the outboard sides of the car. (Open and zoom in for better detail)


It continues out and circles under the torque box and connects to the brake.


I don’t know if these pics will help you figure out what you have or don’t have, but hopefully it’s a start. I believe with the ‘86 you would just need to change the two cables to ones with proper ends to connect to the disc brakes as opposed to the rollers.
If your other hardware is missing (rod/hook, equalizer, pulleys, etc) it may be more of a parts search for sure.
 
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Mixveez

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#54
  • May 19, 2020
  • #54
Rdub6 said:
I realize you have a different hookup at the caliper with the 5lug, but here is a baseline of what you should have been starting with on an ‘86.
The threaded rod connects to cable underneath, and is your adjustment mechanism:


This is underneath, where the threaded rod on the interior, and the hook underneath connect to the “equalizer” which has the cables connected to it


Here are the cables coming from the equalizer to the pulleys and toward the outboard sides of the car. (Open and zoom in for better detail)


It continues out and circles under the torque box and connects to the brake.


I don’t know if these pics will help you figure out what you have or don’t have, but hopefully it’s a start. I believe with the ‘86 you would just need to change the two cables to ones with proper ends to connect to the disc brakes as opposed to the rollers.
If your other hardware is missing (rod/hook, equalizer, pulleys, etc) it may be more of a parts search for sure.
Click to expand...
From what I can tell it has absolutely nothing connected to the handle itself. I will double check but pulling up the E brake is very easy like its just bolted on I believe so from what I can tell I need an 86 center cable with an equalizer bar. And then the 2 cables from LMR for the rear. You reckon that will work?
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
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#55
  • May 19, 2020
  • #55
Have you been underneath to see what is there, as far as the threaded rod/ hook and the equalizer? Or are you just assuming they are missing?
You may also be able to get this part of your console off (two screws and some tabs that snap in) and get a look to see if the rod is connected. Be gentle with the tabs, they like to snap...... if you decide to remove this piece.

 

Mixveez

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#56
  • May 19, 2020
  • #56
Rdub6 said:
Have you been underneath to see what is there, as far as the threaded rod/ hook and the equalizer? Or are you just assuming they are missing?
You may also be able to get this part of your console off (two screws and some tabs that snap in) and get a look to see if the rod is connected. Be gentle with the tabs, they like to snap...... if you decide to remove this piece.

Click to expand...
No but I am pretty sure because the E brake moves very freely very very easily no restriction at all I am going to check of course. And why would I need to pull the piece off? Is the Rod your talking about in the picture you sent earlier? I think I see what your talking about I will check all that.
 

Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
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#57
  • May 19, 2020
  • #57
Hope this helps. I actually have been collecting parts for my 5 lug swap, so eventually I’ll be trying to figure out my e brake for sn95 calipers. Hopefully I can come back here, and see what you’ve done to make it work! Good Luck!
 
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Rdub6

So while I wait to figure out my rear end issues
5 Year Member
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#58
  • May 19, 2020
  • #58
Mixveez said:
No but I am pretty sure because the E brake moves very freely very very easily no restriction at all I am going to check of course. And why would I need to pull the piece off? Is the Rod your talking about in the picture you sent earlier? I think I see what your talking about I will check all that.
Click to expand...

pulling that piece off would just give you a quick look at the ratchet mechanism from up top, without removing the entire console..... just to see what you have.
 

Mixveez

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#59
  • May 19, 2020
  • #59
Rdub6 said:
pulling that piece off would just give you a quick look at the ratchet mechanism from up top, without removing the entire console..... just to see what you have.
Click to expand...
Alright coolio thanks I am still pretty confused but my first step is to get under the car and see whats missing and go from there hopefully I can use the original center cable with the stabilzer bar and then the 2 cables off LMR and probably have to Fab the handle.
 
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Willybill32

But at least it's tight!
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May 20, 2020
#60
  • May 20, 2020
  • #60
Mixveez said:
Alright coolio thanks I am still pretty confused but my first step is to get under the car and see whats missing and go from there hopefully I can use the original center cable with the stabilzer bar and then the 2 cables off LMR and probably have to Fab the handle.
Click to expand...

But you said your handle is there...why would you have to fab it? The diagram I sent is for an '86, so anything shown there should work, but Rdub6's pictures are an even better reference. Removing the plastic tray is easy to do, only requiring the removal of two screws to get a look at the base of the handle to see if the rod and mechanism are there.
 
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