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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
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First mod that is cheapest?

  • Thread starter Thread starter JuggalotuStang
  • Start date Start date Jun 15, 2004
J

JuggalotuStang

New Member
Jan 7, 2004
110
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0
Southampton, MA
Jun 15, 2004
#1
  • Jun 15, 2004
  • #1
Best mod to do first?

My 89GT is stock. What would be the best mod to do first? Exhaust? Gears?
What do you all think?
Thanks
 

CRASH7772

Member
Apr 27, 2003
401
1
16
NH
Jun 15, 2004
#2
  • Jun 15, 2004
  • #2
I vote for sub frame connectors, cat-back (not flowmaster), underdrive pullies, maybe even synthetic oils, stuff like that. I wouldn't change the gears unless your auto, just my opinion.
 

PonyGrl420

Founding Member
Jun 18, 2002
450
0
16
SC
Jun 15, 2004
#3
  • Jun 15, 2004
  • #3
gears are a good bang for the buck mod. Exhaust is good too, wount give you as much go but a mustang with good exhust sounds sooooo good.
Is it auto or manual? If its auto a shift kit will help a lot.
 
J

JuggalotuStang

New Member
Jan 7, 2004
110
0
0
Southampton, MA
Jun 15, 2004
#4
  • Jun 15, 2004
  • #4
actually, i have sub frame connectors, and a strut bar, its 5spd.
 

oldskolbus

Founding Member
Apr 30, 2002
258
13
29
WV
Jun 15, 2004
#5
  • Jun 15, 2004
  • #5
I would go with gears. You will feel the difference.
 

Qwk88LX

Member
Dec 1, 2003
202
21
19
Sunrise, FL
Jun 15, 2004
#6
  • Jun 15, 2004
  • #6
Yeah, another vote for gears, then maybe exhaust & intake.
 
C

Chris6050

Founding Member
Jul 14, 2000
188
0
0
Nazareth, PA
Jun 15, 2004
#7
  • Jun 15, 2004
  • #7
Another for gears here. My car is daily driver and I think my 3.55's are perfect. The only thing I don't like about them is that I didn't get them sooner. Get gears.
 
H

Horsepower67

New Member
Feb 1, 2004
62
0
0
Jun 15, 2004
#8
  • Jun 15, 2004
  • #8
Cheap beginning mods
-Yank the air silencer out (free)
-Put in a K&N (40, or do a cold air, no HP gain really, but it looks good)
-FMS 9mm plug wires, or MSD (50-80, dramatic diff if you still have stock wires like I did- of course do cap, rotor, and good plugs at this time)
-Crane PS-91 coil (50, might make diff, hard to say, I noticed a little)
-Bump timing from 10 degrees BTDC to ~13 BTDC (free, unless you don't have a timing light- get one)
-Check your TPS voltage (free, unless you don't have a multimeter- get one)
-Don't bother with synthetics, expensive and no point when you have a high mileage motor. I like Valvoline 20-50 VR-1 Racing, but I also in in SoCal where it rarely gets cold enough to be an issue.
-Gears are a big bang for the buck, (90-199, plus install, don't try it at home) I like 3.55 for a street car. Unless you race often, 3.73's will just waste more gas and make your car less fun on trips.
-After the gears is a great time to do a good shifter, lets you enjoy your new gears more.
- I would definately do exhaust next, price really ranges here, I have ~700.00 in my exhaust...
Have fun!
 

jrichker

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Jun 15, 2004
#9
  • Jun 15, 2004
  • #9
On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...

Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock air ducting. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1

95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.

3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$80. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.

Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.


*1.) Pro-M has revised their website lately, but here's what I found.

http://performancepartsmall.com/detail.asp?id=224 plastic adapter

http://performancepartsmall.com/detail.asp?id=223 metal adapter.

I got a metal one from Powered by Ford for $35 and tax. That was about a year ago.

Powered By Ford
1516 South Division Avenue
Orlando, FL 32805
Hours 0800-1800
Phone 407-843-3673
 

SuperStang83

Founding Member
Mar 21, 2001
1,693
0
49
Boyertown, Pa
Jun 15, 2004
#10
  • Jun 15, 2004
  • #10
Gears, then exhaust!
 

MustangMulch

New Member
Mar 27, 2003
303
0
0
Santa Clarita, CA
Jun 15, 2004
#11
  • Jun 15, 2004
  • #11
Definitely do gears next. 3.73's will be perfect. Don't listen to people about gas mileage, you really won't notice much difference, but you will notice a huge difference in your cars performance.
 

Qwk88LX

Member
Dec 1, 2003
202
21
19
Sunrise, FL
Jun 15, 2004
#12
  • Jun 15, 2004
  • #12
jrichker said:
On a budget? do the junkyard upgrade...

Gears - 87-88 T-Bird Turbo Coupe rear axle - disc brakes and 3.55 or 3.73 gears in one package for $125-$300. Add another $100-$200 or so to complete the brake upgrade.

94-95 Mustang GT MAF - $40-$100. It is 70 MM instead of the stock 55 MM on regular stangs built prior to 94. You need a $25-$35 flange adapter from Pro-M to fit the stock air ducting. Wiring plugs right in with no changes. *1

95-97 Ford Explorer intake manifold & throttle body $150-$300. The intake manifold flows 220 CFM +, much better than stock. Throttle body is 65 MM, bigger than the 60 MM on stock stangs. I got a 96 with EGR passages that match the stock setup, so my smog gear works just like factory. You’ll need a 65 MM EGR spacer & new gaskets for $65-$90 so you have a place to mount the EGR & throttle linkage.

3G alternator from 94-95 Mustangs or other Ford. $20-$80. A must have to make the electrical system work like it should. You’ll need a 4 gauge power wire and a 125-135 amp fuse to go with it about $15- $30.

Lincoln MK VIII electric fan -$40-$160. Free up some HP by not having to drive the stock fan. The 3G alternator upgrade is a must have prerequisite before you do the MK VIII fan. You won’t have enough electrical power if you don’t do the 3G upgrade.


*1.) Pro-M has revised their website lately, but here's what I found.

http://performancepartsmall.com/detail.asp?id=224 plastic adapter

http://performancepartsmall.com/detail.asp?id=223 metal adapter.

I got a metal one from Powered by Ford for $35 and tax. That was about a year ago.

Powered By Ford
1516 South Division Avenue
Orlando, FL 32805
Hours 0800-1800
Phone 407-843-3673
Click to expand...
listen to this guy & you'll be haulin a$$ & saving dough
 
J

JuggalotuStang

New Member
Jan 7, 2004
110
0
0
Southampton, MA
Jun 15, 2004
#13
  • Jun 15, 2004
  • #13
well, i know im gonna get gears first! haha, i think the silencer was already taken out..cause there is nothing down in the fenderwell.
 
V

v8only

Active Member
Jul 3, 2003
2,378
22
49
Jun 15, 2004
#14
  • Jun 15, 2004
  • #14
I agree with the rest, gears first.

HOWEVER, don't bother with exhaust. It's not gonna get you any more power on a stock 5.0, and is a HUGE waste of cash performance wise. Granted that's the first thing I did, but if you're on a strict budget and want nothing but speed from your mods, exhaust won't do it.

I also wouldn't waste too much time on the intake either. Without heads and cam, a better intake isn't gonna get you your $500's worth that you're gonna spend (unless you locate that explorer intake)

people tend to overmod their cars before they adress the basics. My friends hitting 13.7's on a heavy ass 89 vert with 240k original miles and bone stock long block including intake.

here is what will get you into the 13's

1. Gears.
2. REAR CONTROL ARMS --what use is that power if you can't get it to the ground??
3. drag radials or slicks.
4. all the other cheapies after that. Air filter, timing, under drive pullies etc.

you can hit the 13's without ever changing your throttle body/maf/intake/injectors or cam.
 
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