first start...major problems!!! i need help!!!
- Thread starter manpowermustang
- Start date
musclemustangcb
Member
- Nov 20, 2011
- 166
- 3
- 19
So, did u dig into it yet? I'm still a little curious on the official cause.
Im fricken beside myself at this point and after 15 mustangs im ready for a chevy! I ripped it apart and this is my diagnosessssss. all the pistons looked good on the top with a scope. Number 2, the second back on the drivers side had a small gash on the top, obviouly fromn maybe a valve, hardly enough id think to bend a valve. I have had bent valves on the years and this mark is not enough to bend a valve. On the pass side. The Timing chain guild on the top was cracked in 20 pieces. I got them almost all out. I think my yensioner failed due to a tear on the little rubber gasket they have. The compression on the drivers side was 180s and pass was 160s. I think i jumped a tooth on ther drivers side and its what made the compression so high. The possible one tooth off also would be why the valve was hitting the piston a touch. Do you think one tooth off will make the valve touch it?
So I did a leak down and it also was good. I mean the car idled great even.
So I replaced the guild on the passenger side. It was the top guild. I think it broke from maybe a bad tenioner and maybe chain slap caused it. idk. I put the stock timing gears on, taking off my adjustable one. I set the end links on the dot at 6pm on the crank and the other end like on the dot like usual. I rotated the motor a few revolutions to listen for anything odd and heard nothing. I had a friend who is also ASE certified also looked at it. He agreeded the chains were indeed correct. All things set as they should be i put the cover on. Now as i said the car has 76 on it and ran fricken great before i put my paws on it. lol. I started it and it sounded why better. but i felt as if i could hear like valve train noise. the Knock was way gone. But theres a valve train noise. it seems to be balanced also, not greater on one side or the other. I for the 100s time dumped the oil and went to a 15-40 oil to see if maybe it was just to thin. I think it got a bit quieter but was still there. If i rev it a bit i feel as if i can still hear a knocking sounds. idk what to do. I doesnt really smoke and sounds great. Now another issue i am having is i took it down the road and at wide open throttle it bogs out real bad! My iddle is very up and down. It goes up and stays there then down to 900rpms or so. If i rev it the idle sticks again and finally drops. It starts easy too for the most part. I put in iridium plugs also. I see no vacume leaks anywhere and i know most would say unstable idle points to a vacume leak. Im so stressed. Is there anyone in the milwaukee area on this forum that is willing to take a look and help me. Im so stumped that is have no idea what to do. I retorqued to intake also 2 times. looked over every coil, wire, hose, injector,and idk. please help. all i did was cams and a intake. do i need a programmer possibly???????? Is big cams and a trick flow intake to much with out a programmer? i just dont know what to do or where to turn to anymore.
So I did a leak down and it also was good. I mean the car idled great even.
So I replaced the guild on the passenger side. It was the top guild. I think it broke from maybe a bad tenioner and maybe chain slap caused it. idk. I put the stock timing gears on, taking off my adjustable one. I set the end links on the dot at 6pm on the crank and the other end like on the dot like usual. I rotated the motor a few revolutions to listen for anything odd and heard nothing. I had a friend who is also ASE certified also looked at it. He agreeded the chains were indeed correct. All things set as they should be i put the cover on. Now as i said the car has 76 on it and ran fricken great before i put my paws on it. lol. I started it and it sounded why better. but i felt as if i could hear like valve train noise. the Knock was way gone. But theres a valve train noise. it seems to be balanced also, not greater on one side or the other. I for the 100s time dumped the oil and went to a 15-40 oil to see if maybe it was just to thin. I think it got a bit quieter but was still there. If i rev it a bit i feel as if i can still hear a knocking sounds. idk what to do. I doesnt really smoke and sounds great. Now another issue i am having is i took it down the road and at wide open throttle it bogs out real bad! My iddle is very up and down. It goes up and stays there then down to 900rpms or so. If i rev it the idle sticks again and finally drops. It starts easy too for the most part. I put in iridium plugs also. I see no vacume leaks anywhere and i know most would say unstable idle points to a vacume leak. Im so stressed. Is there anyone in the milwaukee area on this forum that is willing to take a look and help me. Im so stumped that is have no idea what to do. I retorqued to intake also 2 times. looked over every coil, wire, hose, injector,and idk. please help. all i did was cams and a intake. do i need a programmer possibly???????? Is big cams and a trick flow intake to much with out a programmer? i just dont know what to do or where to turn to anymore.
musclemustangcb
Member
- Nov 20, 2011
- 166
- 3
- 19
dude, you def gotta have a tune for the cams. also, u really need to degree ur cams before installation. about 1 out of every 100 sets are cut perfect, and with your luck, u dont have the one perfect set.
Ok on the tune. I had a thought that may of been a possibility. I have a Diablo Preditor programmer. Two questions amd please bare with me, this is my first mod moot. Im 40 and have been building motors many years but the madmotors are a new breed to me. Obviouly a motors a motor when it comes down to but OBD2 and tunes are where i start getting lost. Ok problem one, my fricken programmer wont let me use it. I had the stock tune it came with and took it out and uploaded the factory tune before my project. Well now it says something like wrong vehical vin or something, wtf. n Secondly how can i do a basic tune without, hense the word without getting on a dyno. Money is waaaaay tight for me and I dumped a 
load in to this car so far and lost my job 2 weeks ago so ya its rough. However i can say I am fully set up to powder coat if anyone needs any powder coating done. lol. Thanks any any help is greatly apreciated.
load in to this car so far and lost my job 2 weeks ago so ya its rough. However i can say I am fully set up to powder coat if anyone needs any powder coating done. lol. Thanks any any help is greatly apreciated.
1987stangman
Member
- Jul 12, 2006
- 684
- 24
- 19
It being off ONE tooth with stock cams won't cause PTV Could possibly with performance cams. I have not gone down that road with the modular 4.6 myself. If you still have noise I would look at the valve train at the piston in which you found the damage.
When the guide broke on bank 2 of my engine it was off a tooth. Aggravating little problem it was. Once I fixed it the engine is very quiet and smooth.
As far as the tune you can get a mail order tune by giving them the specs of your upgrades. A dyno tune would be optimal and prob safer.
As for the drivablity, I would use a scan tool and check codes and live data.
When the guide broke on bank 2 of my engine it was off a tooth. Aggravating little problem it was. Once I fixed it the engine is very quiet and smooth.
As far as the tune you can get a mail order tune by giving them the specs of your upgrades. A dyno tune would be optimal and prob safer.
As for the drivablity, I would use a scan tool and check codes and live data.
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