Hi everyone I just for the first time I took my car to the drag strip it's a 1/8 mile does this look right it's a 1989 Mustang GT 5.0 5speed manual transmission it has Pro-m 80mm mass air meter Anderson Shorty Power Pipe 65 throttle body Holley systemax intake manifold upper and lower 1.7 rocker arms 24 injectors BBK shorty headers Dynomax super turbo mufflers with pipes 190 fuel pump timing is set at 12. 355 rear end gears aluminum driveshaft the car still has AC stock 4 cats mishimoto radiator 3 core 180 thermostat NGK spark plugs iridium stock heads. Stock Cam I'm on the right my fastest pass was 9.503 any tips on making it quicker?
First Time At The Drag Strip
- Thread starter michaelgt
- Start date
Work on your 60ft times. Bump timing to 14*. Slip the clutch. Undo the front sway bar for better weight transfer.
Suspension/chassis mods. Do you want a track only car? Street/strip? Brand recommendations would be based on specific answers. Best suspension mods would be some adjustable struts/shocks. Then there are rear control arms,front and rear springs,and if you haven't already done them-subframe connectors(#1). If/when you are going to replace the rear control arms(and before my next recommendation) buy a torque box reinforcement kit.
Tires!-I like a soft bias ply for a low powered manual trans car,like m&h,Hoosiers or Mickey T's. You can get a dot version that you can drive to the track,drop air pressure to around 15#,race,air back up and drive home. They are absolutely horrible on a wet road but work fine otherwise. They won't last very long but are singularly the easiest upgrade to better times.
Also your car doesn't need 24# inj. You are probably running rich which will cut some power. You have plenty of induction/fuel system. You would see major power increases with a head,cam and exhaust system upgrade. Approximately 1-2 seconds off your posted times if done right. You also say shorty power pipe. Do you mean the type that keeps the open air cleaner element in engine compartment? This is a no no. It sucks hot turbulent air from the engine. Not a performance upgrade. Get a unit that puts the element back in the fender.
Suspension/chassis mods. Do you want a track only car? Street/strip? Brand recommendations would be based on specific answers. Best suspension mods would be some adjustable struts/shocks. Then there are rear control arms,front and rear springs,and if you haven't already done them-subframe connectors(#1). If/when you are going to replace the rear control arms(and before my next recommendation) buy a torque box reinforcement kit.
Tires!-I like a soft bias ply for a low powered manual trans car,like m&h,Hoosiers or Mickey T's. You can get a dot version that you can drive to the track,drop air pressure to around 15#,race,air back up and drive home. They are absolutely horrible on a wet road but work fine otherwise. They won't last very long but are singularly the easiest upgrade to better times.
Also your car doesn't need 24# inj. You are probably running rich which will cut some power. You have plenty of induction/fuel system. You would see major power increases with a head,cam and exhaust system upgrade. Approximately 1-2 seconds off your posted times if done right. You also say shorty power pipe. Do you mean the type that keeps the open air cleaner element in engine compartment? This is a no no. It sucks hot turbulent air from the engine. Not a performance upgrade. Get a unit that puts the element back in the fender.
There are some good info in the 5.0 tech/how to section also at the bottom there is an interesting thread by bob cosby.
Check it out.
Check it out.
Well it was my first time racing at a drag strip I didn't launch the car all I did was I saw the lights turn green and I just push the gas the tires I have on it right now are Sumitomo High Performance HTR Z II Tire 17 by 8 I do have subframe connectors "Steeda" and upper control arms all i did was push the gas it had no traction at all on 1st and second and third if finally hooked
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5.0Droptop
...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??
Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here
Set a goal. Then make plans how to achieve it.
My first mustang build was not thought out. I just threw parts on it with no particular goal. Then later I figured out what I really wanted the car to do. Basically I spent more time and money than necessary because I didnt think it out.
My first mustang build was not thought out. I just threw parts on it with no particular goal. Then later I figured out what I really wanted the car to do. Basically I spent more time and money than necessary because I didnt think it out.
5.0Droptop
...all those nights we shared, and you're a dude??
Special Agent Mukity-Muck Whats in Charge Round Here
One last bit of advice. Once you start drag racing you will forever be chasing a number. It gets expensive. I had a 91 Gt that should have gone high 11's in 1/4mi. ....should have. I never got it there. Could have been the suspension. Could have been the tires. Could have been my driving. Could have been a combination of many things. My point is dont worry too much about the numbers. Just have fun and enjoy the ride.
Only if it completely encloses the filter and only sucks in air from the fender....
For every 10* temp rise in intake air you lose 1% hp.
Outside air 70*
Engine temp 190*
Difference 120*
HP loss. 12%
HP was 225 -12%= 198hp.
Your air filter setup is making 27 less hp (approximately rough math here) than it could be.
Cool okay so I changed the mass air meter to a 76 CNL it has the factory air box on it so got that covered
Boostedpimp
20+ Year Stangneter 
The Systemax intake and 24lb injectors are more then likely hurting your low end but at least you have gears to help minimize that. If the car was a heads cam car then that setup would be more ideal but either way traction is your issue.
Remove any weight that isn't needed for your track outting like spare tire, jack, people etc and unbolt one side of the front swaybar at the track. It'll help with weight transfer to the rear wheels. Just remember to bolt it back up before you leave the track or not. Just know the car will drive really loose and sloppy without it bolted back up.
You could always pop the serpentine belt off before you pull up to the line.. and pull over at the end and put it back on
Remove any weight that isn't needed for your track outting like spare tire, jack, people etc and unbolt one side of the front swaybar at the track. It'll help with weight transfer to the rear wheels. Just remember to bolt it back up before you leave the track or not. Just know the car will drive really loose and sloppy without it bolted back up.
You could always pop the serpentine belt off before you pull up to the line.. and pull over at the end and put it back on
The Systemax intake and 24lb injectors are more then likely hurting your low end but at least you have gears to help minimize that. If the car was a heads cam car then that setup would be more ideal but either way traction is your issue.
Remove any weight that isn't needed for your track outting like spare tire, jack, people etc and unbolt one side of the front swaybar at the track. It'll help with weight transfer to the rear wheels. Just remember to bolt it back up before you leave the track or not. Just know the car will drive really loose and sloppy without it bolted back up.
You could always pop the serpentine belt off before you pull up to the line.. and pull over at the end and put it back on
I really really don't want to pull off the 24 injectors and the intake kind of a pain to do thanks for the advice I still have the stock coil will I be more quicker with the aftermarket ones ??
Boostedpimp
20+ Year Stangneter
Not telling you to yank those parts off. They are good parts just letting you know your leaving a little bit of low end on the table is all.
Swapping to an aftermarket coil will do nothing to help and usually factory coil is the most reliable so I would leave it.
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